coach lights

[jetlag]

I was wondering what is the best height to rough in for carriage lights on the wall each side of entrance doors , I usually just hold up the light and see what looks ok. I dont know what kind of light but will prob be the ones with a stem 6-8 inch below the outlet center with the top with bulb approx 12-14 inch above center. Also I always cut in a remodeling box into the siding but I notice on a lot of new houses they just have the wire stubbed out of the wall, are they planning to use a surface mount w/p box ? will that work with a carriage light, I think some have oversized base that would not rest on edge of the box.

 

[Hendrix]

I was wondering what is the best height to rough in for carriage lights on the wall each side of entrance doors , I usually just hold up the light and see what looks ok. I dont know what kind of light but will prob be the ones with a stem 6-8 inch below the outlet center with the top with bulb approx 12-14 inch above center. Also I always cut in a remodeling box into the siding but I notice on a lot of new houses they just have the wire stubbed out of the wall, are they planning to use a surface mount w/p box ? will that work with a carriage light, I think some have oversized base that would not rest on edge of the box.

I used to put them at 6' above finish grade but it's a matter of personal preferance.

 

[Howard Burger]

my 2-bits worth

my 2-bits worth

Jetlag, FWIW if I know the size of the light the contractor is using, I put it so the center of the bulb is a little above head height, that is, about 74 inches above the deck. This allows the light to shine down slightly on the person standing at the door without being directly in their eyes, and looks nice in relationship to the top of the doorway. It's more a matter of personal prefrence I guess.

As to the stub outs, if the electrician knows that siding is going on the house he may be anticipating mounting some sort of block or box at the location of the light for the siding to butt into; I've used GC provided blocks of cedar that I put a 4 in. hole in and mount with a shallow 4/0 box and I've also used factory made plastic blocks to surround the metal junction box (I just try to remember to stub the NM into a hole in the box to one side, not dead center, because some lights may have a hollow mounting rod that is right in the center of the box, which creates potential for damaging my wires).

Or, the electrician may not care about junction boxes, and is planning on making up his wires in the canopy of the light...

I've done like you do on smooth outer surface like t-111 siding, I'll install a cut-in or I'll cut 4 in. or 3 in. hole in the siding put a metal 4-square box with a mud ring in the stud space. I put foil duct tape on the bare wood under the light canopy to comply with 410.23.

 

[mcclary's electrical]

Ten inches down from top of door, and ten inches over, drill a hole, stick out wire, and leave.

 

[Dennis Alwon]

There is not enough info in your question to answer it. The size of the fixture- the height of the door- the amount of space available all come into play but the HO's decision may be your answer.

As a general rule I would do an average sconce about 10" from the bottom of the header. Some people like them higher then that.

 

[Umlaut]

Ten inches down from top of door, and ten inches over, drill a hole, stick out wire, and leave.

LOL, No-hire!

 

[jetlag]

Thanks all

Thanks all

Every one seems to have a little different approach but i believe in most cases the bulb it self will wind up about 76 inch to get above the line of sight, unless you are the jolly green giant come calling

 

[480sparky]

All depends on the finished surface. HarniPlank, Logs, Vinyl? Where does the centerline of a course end up?

If it's a flat surface like EIFS or stucco, then it doesn't matter as much.

 

[jetlag]

All depends on the finished surface. HarniPlank, Logs, Vinyl? Where does the centerline of a course end up?

If it's a flat surface like EIFS or stucco, then it doesn't matter as much.

Yea I realized that next day, it is vinyl siding and when the adapter is in place the center of second course from top puts in in the 10 " range which is good. I still have a question if you have to have a box . The vinyl fixture plate is a plastic material, and has a place to cut out for 4" box . Can you put a piece of metal flash or foil duct tape behind the light canopy and mount the fixture with screws into the osb siding without a box ? Right now I just have the 14/2 stubed out of wall. I usually use the remodeling box but the holding taps wont reach thru the mount plate and the osb. I used the ones with a metal plate across the back bent up on sides , you can cut the metal off some for the thickness you need. I cant find those boxes any more

 

[480sparky]

Yea I realized that next day, it is vinyl siding and when the adapter is in place the center of second course from top puts in in the 10 " range which is good. I still have a question if you have to have a box . The vinyl fixture plate is a plastic material, and has a place to cut out for 4" box . Can you put a piece of metal flash or foil duct tape behind the light canopy and mount the fixture with screws into the osb siding without a box ? Right now I just have the 14/2 stubed out of wall. I usually use the remodeling box but the holding taps wont reach thru the mount plate and the osb. I used the ones with a metal plate across the back bent up on sides , you can cut the metal off some for the thickness you need. I cant find those boxes any more

No matter what, you need a box. 314.27.

 

[jetlag]

thanks sparky

thanks sparky

No matter what, you need a box. 314.27.

I wish some one could draw a cut away view how they mount a wall light on vinyl siding with a box . Ive never found a way that works well

 

[480sparky]

I wish some one could draw a cut away view how they mount a wall light on vinyl siding with a box . Ive never found a way that works well

I use the mounting blocks that are 1?" thick. An 8b box works perfect in 'em.

 

[jetlag]

I use the mounting blocks that are 1?" thick. An 8b box works perfect in 'em.

Yes now that would work great , if I could find that , the ones i purchased at big blue are about 7/8 and hollow plastic , it will collapse if you tighten any thing against it . Plus there is no box I know of that is 7/8 deep

 

[480sparky]

......... the ones i purchased at big blue are about 7/8 and hollow plastic ,...........

Try a real lumber yard, or ask the siders where they get their stuff and try there.

 

[LarryFine]

Once again, Arlington comes to the rescue.

I like the blocks with the built-in box. (Hey, it rhymes!)

 

[480sparky]

Once again, Arlington comes to the rescue.

I like the blocks with the built-in box. (Hey, it rhymes!)

You're a poet, and don't even know it!

 

[LarryFine]

You're a poet, and don't even know it!

Oh, get a clue! Of course, I do!