chris kennedy
Senior Member
- Location
- Miami Fla.
- Occupation
- 60 yr old tool twisting electrician
I'll post a pic in a min, how they come and adjustments need before installation.
Old work steel boxes
- Thread starter Telc
- Start date
- Status
chris kennedy
Senior Member
- Location
- Miami Fla.
- Occupation
- 60 yr old tool twisting electrician
This is how they come from the supply house. I pic 1 note the angle of the 6/32's. In pic 2 note how the bracket that mates with the drywall is set back from the front of the box.
chris kennedy
Senior Member
- Location
- Miami Fla.
- Occupation
- 60 yr old tool twisting electrician
This is after tweaking. Makes device and plate installation a snap.
1793
Senior Member
- Location
- Louisville, Kentucky
- Occupation
- Inspector
I'll be the seventh or eighth to go with the Jiffy Hangers or Patton Hangers or Madison Straps or whatever they are called.
With the old work box I make sure I take off the "Mouse Ears" on the device so the plate fits nice and flush.
With the old work box I make sure I take off the "Mouse Ears" on the device so the plate fits nice and flush.
LarryFine
Master Electrician Electric Contractor Richmond VA
- Location
- Henrico County, VA
- Occupation
- Electrical Contractor
I use the Maddies, to, and get them tight by pushing in on the edge of the box as I pull on the strip, fold it in tightly, and crimp with my Kleins. That makes the box tight to the drywall, and keeps the strips from hitting device screws.
Hey, wait. That doesn't work. :roll:
Yes, they are, and don't call me Certainly!
Hey, wait. That doesn't work. :roll:
LarryFine
Master Electrician Electric Contractor Richmond VA
- Location
- Henrico County, VA
- Occupation
- Electrical Contractor
I haven't noticed the device ears being off of 90, but I also adjust the brackets so the back of the bracket is on the same plane as the front of the box.
After all, plastic OWB's are molded that way, and everyone knows they're the best.
LarryFine
Master Electrician Electric Contractor Richmond VA
- Location
- Henrico County, VA
- Occupation
- Electrical Contractor
I see, said the blind man. Yes, I've noticed that, but it's not usually that severe.
Yep. Makes the entire install look sloppy.
Now, that's a well-tweaked box.
Disclaimer: I hereby proclaim that I have no responsibility whatsoever for the content of any responses to my last statement.
LarryFine
Master Electrician Electric Contractor Richmond VA
- Location
- Henrico County, VA
- Occupation
- Electrical Contractor
Absolutely. Plastic or metal, the ears interfere with a flush install and plate-to-wall fit.
Mad bars x12:grin:
Last edited:
- Location
- Chapel Hill, NC
- Occupation
- Retired Electrical Contractor
I agree with Chris. I always adjust the ears because they generally are install to far back. If you leave it like that then the box extends beyond the rock. Adjust the ears forward of the box just a tad and everything fits better.
I don't like any of the options mentioned thus far. Here's a link to a product that seems to be superior in my opinion.
http://www.arlcatalog.com/Fan_Specialty/Steel ONE-BOX Outlet Box.htm
Although I have not personally used this product, I intend to the next time I have an application. Notice it has a 24.0 CI capacity.
http://www.arlcatalog.com/Fan_Specialty/Steel ONE-BOX Outlet Box.htm
Although I have not personally used this product, I intend to the next time I have an application. Notice it has a 24.0 CI capacity.
- Location
- Chapel Hill, NC
- Occupation
- Retired Electrical Contractor
This is for new construction we are talking old work. You don't always have a stud to work with.
- Location
- Simi Valley, CA
I think they make one for old work too, but you're right about the stud.
Usually the only one close is the electrician:grin:
Usually the only one close is the electrician:grin:
I find it extremely rare that I need to "float" a box for old work. I almost always use the nearest stud. If I were installing a power receptacle, I wouldn't even think about floating a box. I see no reason why that Arlington box can't be used for old work applications provided a stud is present.
al hildenbrand
Senior Member
- Location
- Minnesota
- Occupation
- Electrical Contractor, Electrical Consultant, Electrical Engineer
They can't be ganged.
For two gang, here's an option for use with a 4" square box.
http://www.hubbellcatalog.com/raco/RACO_datasheet.asp?PN=206RAC
For 3 gang or more, just go with a masonry box. I simply don't like the tight fit of a steel old work box. To me, a box with yoke screw taps on the outside is a bad design. Have you ever tried installing a GFCI or a dimmer in one of those?
http://www.hubbellcatalog.com/raco/RACO_datasheet.asp?PN=206RAC
For 3 gang or more, just go with a masonry box. I simply don't like the tight fit of a steel old work box. To me, a box with yoke screw taps on the outside is a bad design. Have you ever tried installing a GFCI or a dimmer in one of those?
- Location
- Chapel Hill, NC
- Occupation
- Retired Electrical Contractor
I agree but I don't think that side bracket could be used very easily.
Arlington makes similar boxes in plastic for nm cable.
al hildenbrand
Senior Member
- Location
- Minnesota
- Occupation
- Electrical Contractor, Electrical Consultant, Electrical Engineer
Sure have. All the time. If the box is manufactured so the GFI or dimmer doesn't fit, I don't get that brand of wall case again.
I work on homes with iron pipe gas lines, iron pipe hydronic systems with the runs in the walls, iron plumbing pipe, and energized knob and tube installed at the time of original construction . . . all tend to make relying on stud only mounting of rework cases as being unnecessarily restrictive. It's nice to have the option to mount direct to a stud, but, in my experience, I've got to be more flexible and include the floating mount as well.
The sheet rockers will just cut the backetts off:roll:
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