Old work steel boxes

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This is how they come from the supply house. I pic 1 note the angle of the 6/32's. In pic 2 note how the bracket that mates with the drywall is set back from the front of the box.

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I'll be the seventh or eighth to go with the Jiffy Hangers or Patton Hangers or Madison Straps or whatever they are called.

With the old work box I make sure I take off the "Mouse Ears" on the device so the plate fits nice and flush.
 
I use the Maddies, to, and get them tight by pushing in on the edge of the box as I pull on the strip, fold it in tightly, and crimp with my Kleins. That makes the box tight to the drywall, and keeps the strips from hitting device screws.


busman said:
Certainly the tiger grip is the only solution for masonry walls.
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Yes, they are, and don't call me Certainly!



Hey, wait. That doesn't work. :roll:
 
chris kennedy said:
I will add I always remove the top and bottom holding brackets, take my klines and pull the 6/32 ears back to 90? from the face of the box then reinstall the brackets evenly and slightly forward of the face.
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I haven't noticed the device ears being off of 90, but I also adjust the brackets so the back of the bracket is on the same plane as the front of the box.

After all, plastic OWB's are molded that way, and everyone knows they're the best. ;)
 
chris kennedy said:
I pic 1 note the angle of the 6/32's.
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I see, said the blind man. Yes, I've noticed that, but it's not usually that severe.
In pic 2 note how the bracket that mates with the drywall is set back from the front of the box.
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Yep. Makes the entire install look sloppy.
This is after tweaking. Makes device and plate installation a snap.
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Now, that's a well-tweaked box.





Disclaimer: I hereby proclaim that I have no responsibility whatsoever for the content of any responses to my last statement.
 
1793 said:
With the old work box I make sure I take off the "Mouse Ears" on the device so the plate fits nice and flush.
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Absolutely. Plastic or metal, the ears interfere with a flush install and plate-to-wall fit.
 
I agree with Chris. I always adjust the ears because they generally are install to far back. If you leave it like that then the box extends beyond the rock. Adjust the ears forward of the box just a tad and everything fits better.
 
I find it extremely rare that I need to "float" a box for old work. I almost always use the nearest stud. If I were installing a power receptacle, I wouldn't even think about floating a box. I see no reason why that Arlington box can't be used for old work applications provided a stud is present.
 
Vertex said:
I find it extremely rare that I need to "float" a box for old work. I almost always use the nearest stud. If I were installing a power receptacle, I wouldn't even think about floating a box. I see no reason why that Arlington box can't be used for old work applications provided a stud is present.
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I agree but I don't think that side bracket could be used very easily.

Arlington makes similar boxes in plastic for nm cable.
 
Vertex said:
Have you ever tried installing a GFCI or a dimmer in one of those?
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Sure have. All the time. If the box is manufactured so the GFI or dimmer doesn't fit, I don't get that brand of wall case again.

I work on homes with iron pipe gas lines, iron pipe hydronic systems with the runs in the walls, iron plumbing pipe, and energized knob and tube installed at the time of original construction . . . all tend to make relying on stud only mounting of rework cases as being unnecessarily restrictive. It's nice to have the option to mount direct to a stud, but, in my experience, I've got to be more flexible and include the floating mount as well.
 
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