Romex Staple Gun

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M4gery

Senior Member
I finally replaced the first one I bought back in '02 or '03 last year.

The box you pictures above, the #7510S, is that the exact staples that you used? I ask because I was about to order them on Amazon and I saw a couple complaints about them not going in all the way so I was wondering if maybe the shorter leg staples might work better?
 

dmagyar

Senior Member
Location
Rocklin, Ca.
Powerfast not too bad a tool

Powerfast not too bad a tool

About 6 years ago I bought a Powerfast stapler and after about a year I threw it out the first because it miss-fired all the time. About a year later I bought another as I got tired of jabbing my fingers reaching into my bag for staples.
Anyway the second one did the trick and has worked very well. Only problem like the other posts is that staples are available only at a premium (original cost of 400 staples about $12, now $35 online). It's either go that route or buy one of the Arrow T75 models.
 

480sparky

Senior Member
Location
Iowegia
The box you pictures above, the #7510S, is that the exact staples that you used? I ask because I was about to order them on Amazon and I saw a couple complaints about them not going in all the way so I was wondering if maybe the shorter leg staples might work better?


They're not designed to 'go in all the way'. How far 'in' should they go? The stapler doesn't know if there's 14-2, 14-3, 12-2, 12-3, 10-2 or 10-3, so there's no way it can 'go in all the way'.

There's no requirement that any staple you use, with a gun or by the old hammer-n-finger method, be 'tight' against the cable.
 

readydave8

re member
Location
Clarkesville, Georgia
Occupation
electrician
I didn't really like my T-75 Arrow very well, but I still use it now and then in a tight place or on large exposed LV that are too big for T-25.

But I never knew about holding it flat on wire, maybe that's why it jammed so much.

Both my T-25's and T-75 rarely work in upside down position (end staple comes out closest to the ground.)
 

M4gery

Senior Member
They're not designed to 'go in all the way'. How far 'in' should they go? The stapler doesn't know if there's 14-2, 14-3, 12-2, 12-3, 10-2 or 10-3, so there's no way it can 'go in all the way'.

There's no requirement that any staple you use, with a gun or by the old hammer-n-finger method, be 'tight' against the cable.

I figure that once the staple hits the NM it stops, whatever size NM you are using, similar to my low voltage staple gun. I like the staple to be a bit snug so it holds the cable straight instead of letting it droop in between.
 

PetrosA

Senior Member
Yep. I staple into the 2x3's that form the top and bottom flanges, not the particle-board web.

Hmm, I've stapled to the top ledge of the bottom 2x3 a few times in basements that probably won't get finished but it doesn't seem like a really safe place to staple to nor can you get more than about two cables next to each other. I would never staple that close on the bottom of a regular joist that were getting drywalled. Doesn't stapling to the side of the top 2x3 put your cable too close to the bottom of the floor? I thought you need to be 1 1/2" from the top of the joist?
 

480sparky

Senior Member
Location
Iowegia
I figure that once the staple hits the NM it stops, whatever size NM you are using, similar to my low voltage staple gun. I like the staple to be a bit snug so it holds the cable straight instead of letting it droop in between.


It takes more force to drive the staple into the wood than the cable will provide in resistance. That's why it's only made to drive the staples in so far. Again, there's no requirement that the staple be flush, so why go to the expense of making stapler to do so?

If you want your staples flush, fine.... but that's not the staplers' problem.
 

goldstar

Senior Member
Location
New Jersey
Occupation
Electrical Contractor
I don't believe there's anything in the code that requires you have to "drive the staples home". As long as it holds the wire 1 1/4" away from the front edge of a 2 x 4 that's adequate. Look at cable stackers, they just barely hold the wire in place.
 

LarryFine

Master Electrician Electric Contractor Richmond VA
Location
Henrico County, VA
Occupation
Electrical Contractor
Hmm, I've stapled to the top ledge of the bottom 2x3 a few times in basements that probably won't get finished but it doesn't seem like a really safe place to staple to nor can you get more than about two cables next to each other.
The bottom of the top flange is 1.5" thick, as is the top of the bottom flange, but, if the flooring is done, the top flange should be safe.

For several cables, try a stacker. Here is an LV home run, and the stacker is nailed into the web:

LVfarSm.jpg
 

LarryFine

Master Electrician Electric Contractor Richmond VA
Location
Henrico County, VA
Occupation
Electrical Contractor
Larry, I like the way that looks and I wouldn't have thought of turning the stackers sideways. Thanks for the idea!
Yer welcome. By the way, I bend the nail-tips down on the other side of the web if they're loose in the particle board.
 

JOHNEO99

Senior Member
I'm not a fan of the staple guns because like someone else said they can only be used 60% of the time. I get annoyed trying to get at rope in certain angles with those things. If you are gonna do a bunch of rope u should make some of these.

ufos001.jpg
 

480sparky

Senior Member
Location
Iowegia
I'm not a fan of the staple guns because like someone else said they can only be used 60% of the time. I get annoyed trying to get at rope in certain angles with those things. If you are gonna do a bunch of rope u should make some of these.

ufos001.jpg


How does a messy van help?
Rim_Shot_emoticon.gif
 

Pronto

New member
Where do you guys buy the staples for the T75? I'm looking everywhere (supply houses/fastener suppliers) and they all look at me funny when I tell them the 7510S model number or any number for the T75... I see that Amazon has the stapler and the 7514S, but I can't find the 7510S. Anyone have any ideas where I can get a box locally?

T75 all day long. The staples aren't that much... maybe $9/box. It won't work in ALL staple situations, but it works for 75% of 'em. And you can staple NM in places you would never be able to hammer.

Just make sure to use the staples designed for NM. I carry an empty box in the truck just to show the occasional inspector who's never run across them.

7910ST75.jpg

 

George Stolz

Moderator
Staff member
Location
Windsor, CO NEC: 2017
Occupation
Service Manager
There's no requirement that any staple you use, with a gun or by the old hammer-n-finger method, be 'tight' against the cable.

I think 110.12 could be applied, and I'd get downright giddy writing 334.30 on the red tag.

334.30 Securing and Supporting. Nonmetallic-sheathed cable shall be supported and secured by staples, cable ties, straps, hangers, or similar fittings...

If it's sliding all over the place, I'd have a hard time calling it "secured".
 

goldstar

Senior Member
Location
New Jersey
Occupation
Electrical Contractor
I've never had a problem with 2 flat cables under one staple. BTW, I use the insulated staples.

There's an Arrow factory here in Saddle Brook, NJ. You can try ordering direct from them. They're not that far away from me so I usually do the cash & carry thing when I'm in the area.
 
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