Does anyone use terminal strips?

[mike33]

I have approximately 60 #12 THHN wires in a junction box that need to be spliced. I always use wire nuts, but I would like to give it a cleaner look.

Has anyone ever used terminal strips for something like this?

Are there any code issues?


http://www.idealindustries.com/prodDetail.do?prodId=89-212&div=0&l1=terminal_blocks_strips

 

[iwire]

I have approximately 60 #12 THHN wires in a junction box that need to be spliced. I always use wire nuts, but I would like to give it a cleaner look.

Has anyone ever used terminal strips for something like this?

Are there any code issues?


http://www.idealindustries.com/prodDetail.do?prodId=89-212&div=0&l1=terminal_blocks_strips

I hate those old style terminal strips.

Go with these if for some reason you don't want wire nuts.

http://www.idealindustries.com/products/wire_termination/terminal_blocks_strips/barrier_strips.jsp

 

[LarryFine]

Maybe this is neater and more compact:

 

[iwire]

Maybe this is neater and more compact:

No maybe these would be better

:grin:

 

[mike33]

Those barrier strips look more protected but, I don't think you could add a jumper to connect more than two wires.

And, how does it fasten to the box?

This one looks kinda cool. But you'd have to use crimp terminals which would be a pain.

http://www.statesproducts.com/products/product_details_by_sub_group.php?BusinessSectorCod e=TB&BusinessSector=Terminal%20Blocks

 

[Finite10]

I have approximately 60 #12 THHN wires in a junction box that need to be spliced. I always use wire nuts, but I would like to give it a cleaner look.

Has anyone ever used terminal strips for something like this?

Are there any code issues?


http://www.idealindustries.com/prodDetail.do?prodId=89-212&div=0&l1=terminal_blocks_strips

I've used those and like the fact that you can jumper when you would have more than 2 wires under a wirenut. Also, a standard size screwdriver has that familiar snug/torqued-down feel. No code issues that I know of -what type of box?

 

[Smart $]

...I would like to give it a cleaner look.

Has anyone ever used terminal strips for something like this?

...

Yes

Depending on the job, perhaps DIN-rail terminal blocks. Example: http://www.weidmuller.com/terminal_blocks

 

[sameguy]

You can not jumper the white term. block per my call this year to Ideal, look at series 100 if you are into Ideal or equal.

 

[PetrosA]

I've used the white ones in a trough for series connected door switches and often use them for 12V lighting splices. There's a mounting hole between each terminal pair, they can be cut to length and come in different sizes. Cool stuff, but as mentioned there isn't any way to jumper them. For that you'll need a different solution.

 

[weressl]

I have approximately 60 #12 THHN wires in a junction box that need to be spliced. I always use wire nuts, but I would like to give it a cleaner look.

Has anyone ever used terminal strips for something like this?

Are there any code issues?


http://www.idealindustries.com/prodDetail.do?prodId=89-212&div=0&l1=terminal_blocks_strips

You say spliced, but then you talk about wire nuts and terminal blocks.

What is the objective?

Are these wires subject to testing and disconnect/reconnect on a routine basis or is this permanent wiring?

The answer will tell you if you should use compression butt splices, either insulated or heatshrink over, or the terminal blocks that others have suggested. (Look at the Wago push in terminals.)

 

[tx2step]

Solid or stranded?

Solid or stranded?

It'll also depend on whether you're splicing solid or stranded wires. I don't like to use screw terminals for stranded wire, or butt splices for solid wire.

 

[Besoeker]

I have approximately 60 #12 THHN wires in a junction box that need to be spliced. I always use wire nuts, but I would like to give it a cleaner look.

Has anyone ever used terminal strips for something like this?

Are there any code issues?

This is usually how we terminate conductors in a control panel or junction box:

It's the bottom half of the back panel for a control panel. The trunking in the middle is for customer/installer field wiring.

 

[Besoeker]

Maybe this is neater and more compact:

Commonly referred to here as "chocolate block" because it vaguely resembles the way a bar of (Cadbury's dairy milk) chocolate looks - something like two columns of four rows of square pieces.
We do use that here but generally just for temporary connections. But sometimes "temporary" can be weeks, or years, or decades......:roll:

 

[stevenj76]

I hate those old style terminal strips.

Go with these if for some reason you don't want wire nuts.

Just sayin Bob, those are only good for 400V.

Life savers for low-voltage work, but not sure about line voltage splicing.

The black barrier strips with the #8 screws, you can buy those with keepers if you have stranded #12. Avoids having to fork-term each wire.

 

[mike33]

-what type of box?

12" x 12" x 6" metal box

 

[mike33]

You say spliced, but then you talk about wire nuts and terminal blocks.

What is the objective?

Are these wires subject to testing and disconnect/reconnect on a routine basis or is this permanent wiring?

The answer will tell you if you should use compression butt splices, either insulated or heatshrink over, or the terminal blocks that others have suggested. (Look at the Wago push in terminals.)

I would say this will be considered permanent wiring. All solid #12 with the exception of maybe 2 or 3 stranded wires. It is likely someone will add to or pass through this box at some point.
I am trying to make my work look as clean as possible (like Besoeker's picture ). I love it when someone looks in a panel I wired and stops to say wow! this looks nice. Or when someone else sets trim in boxes I made up and doesn't even have to think about what my intentions were.

I used to use the push-in connectors years ago. For some reason I got the idea that most professional electricians thought they were junk. I have been rethinking that lately.

 

[patriot]

I've used both the Ideal (chocolate block), and the denrail style terminal strips. The denrail style are better in my opinion but is a little more expensive.

 

[Cow]

12" x 12" x 6" metal box

Similar story, I had to move an overloaded panel in an office once. I installed two 24x24x4 Nema 1 boxes, one in the attic and one in the crawlspace to swing the now-to-short Romex's into. Same situation as you, I didn't want 1000 wirenuts springing out at me so I screwed some dinrail to the back and used some 30A rated terminal blocks. I used insulated taps for my big wires, but everything #10 and under went into terminal blocks. Mount a ground bar to the back of the j-box and now the grounds are taken care of too. Came out looking real clean. Should make it easy to troubleshoot too, being able to put your probes on the terminal screws should you ever need to check power.

 

[weressl]

I would say this will be considered permanent wiring. All solid #12 with the exception of maybe 2 or 3 stranded wires. It is likely someone will add to or pass through this box at some point.
I am trying to make my work look as clean as possible (like Besoeker's picture ). I love it when someone looks in a panel I wired and stops to say wow! this looks nice. Or when someone else sets trim in boxes I made up and doesn't even have to think about what my intentions were.

I used to use the push-in connectors years ago. For some reason I got the idea that most professional electricians thought they were junk. I have been rethinking that lately.

Wago is a proven technology and often imitated.
The main issue is if it is a permanent connection or does it require disconnect/reconnect. That should determine which method do you use. A disconnectable termination will always be more expensive and looking at the big picture we should always use the most cost effective method. When you save, even if it is not your money and you may even get paid less, the saved money will be available for another capital expenditure that will generate work, so you actually create work by saving.

 

[Besoeker]

I would say this will be considered permanent wiring. All solid #12 with the exception of maybe 2 or 3 stranded wires. It is likely someone will add to or pass through this box at some point.
I am trying to make my work look as clean as possible (like Besoeker's picture ).

Thank you for your kind words. It's just how we do it. Most of our stuff is for industrial customers. That rather sets the standards that we take as the normal.
We have other divisions that do work for the commercial and sometimes the upmarket domestic sectors. Now and again, they have a requirement for a custom panel. This is one such (minus the front door):

I think the customer was moderately pleased.