Log Homes - Bundling

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Paul B

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I am looking at doing a log home. I can see where bundling could be a real issue. Folks that have done some of these, do you leave a man on site to run wire during construction? Seems to me it could be a tough job to do after all logs are set.
 
I did a log home about 12 years ago. I did not run any cables while logs were being set but I did bore holes in logs that I later fished cables through as well as bore out holes for setting flush boxes.

I also made a jig that I could run a router through the jig and make consistent flattened areas on the log faces where flush boxes were to be placed. this made trim plates sit on a flat surface and made the finished appearance look nice.

I have seen other log homes where they just ran wiremold instead of concealing the wiring and they looked like hell.

Bundling was not an issue on this home. for receptacles there was usually one cable in and one cable out at the most. I only recall one lighting switch installed in the logs and that was by the front door. Careful planning will only put minimal amount of cables in those logs.

This home was logs on exterior walls only, so some careful planning of receptacle placement can make for less drilling. Putting receptacles near corners on interior walls means less receptacles on exterior walls are required - but they may be desired.
 
The ones we have done the cabin delivery and construction guys bored all the holes and cut out all the boxes. I had it in writing that if any holes we're not penetratable then it would be an additional hourly charge to remedy the situation.
Incidentially they done a real good job. I left metal gangable cut out boxes on the job. Just to give them some thing to go by.
Like kwire , lots of the outlets are on the inside walls.
In addition the cabin had decorative base boards that would enable us to fish wires if another out let was desired.
 
Log Homes

Log Homes

The ones we did in Alaska, They were set on pillings so we could get under it. and would bore up from below. A little extra wire but logs walls were all ready up.
 
I did a few but I was able to install the outlets in a 4" sq. with plaster ring at the floor level and then they installed a flat baseboard to hide everything. Switches and all were on the inside walls except in one or 2 places.

I did have to drill a few long holes. I used a 1" auger bit with extension bits. You have to continually keep pulling the bit back to keep the hole clean.

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auger%20bit.jpg
 
everything ok so far-be sure of backcharge if stuff doesn't fit. Use s/g nail-on w/ nail ears cut off(more capacity if switching outlets and easy to mount) Must be there or trust others as holes should be drilled for outlets as the logs are stacked(long bit and back it out lots to clean chips)Floor outlets work but $$$$! Grinder works to make flat surface. Had a friend that was a chainsaw jockey and he made a jig to cut in holes and then grind flat.
MUST be there to pull for ceiling lights and PROTECT the cable.
Look for route from ceiling/roof down to basement/crawl and then up to switch location(lots more wire)
Most doors/windows are put into key-way to provide for shrinkage of logs as they dry(4-6" in 8' wall) can run behind the key for switches.
 
Added: I would think that a log home is the ideal use of remote lighting control, i.e. home automation. You'd need one or, at most two gang boxes for most locations.

Sierrasparky said:
milwakee has a quick chuck for extensions now. They work great.
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That's great news, because these:

Dennis Alwon said:
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... really create a vacuum when it comes to retaining its grip on the auger and not rounding out the setscrews.
 
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You can still use your long augers as long as the auger is bigger than the quick disconnect. I usually bore a large hole when drilling in logs.
 
Sierrasparky said:
You can still use your long augers as long as the auger is bigger than the quick disconnect. I usually bore a large hole when drilling in logs.
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The newer extension depends on a turned-down neck on the shaft, about 1.5" from the end. My bits alas lack that; they have a ~1" hex section to fit in the chuck, and round stock up to the head.
 
Thanks for the replies guys, I think I am going to pass on this one. Sounds like it could be a nightmare. No piers, solid down on foundation. If holes are not correct to start with fixing could be trouble.
 
ptonsparky said:
You either baby sit those types of jobs and charge accordingly or trust someone else and still charge. Not low bid projects.
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There is nothing low bid with log homes, the last one we did about 6 years ago went $42k for a 2800 SQ.FT. even though they did a great job of drilling the holes and setting the box's with flat spots for the wall plates it was a bust your butt job even with 4 guys just trying to keep up with the log setters and a basment,as they were paying by the hour for the crane, the log ceiling was vaulted with open top inside walls, that made lights and ceiling fans a bare to do, even with how bad getting jobs is right now I still would not want to see another log home like that one.:mad:
 
Paul B said:
Thanks for the replies guys, I think I am going to pass on this one. Sounds like it could be a nightmare. No piers, solid down on foundation. If holes are not correct to start with fixing could be trouble.
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Best Idea--I swore off logs back when I was an EC. One major PITA.
 
Paul B said:
Thanks for the replies guys, I think I am going to pass on this one. Sounds like it could be a nightmare. No piers, solid down on foundation. If holes are not correct to start with fixing could be trouble.
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So are you saying that the logs are set on a concrete slab on grade foundation?

If it is a raised foundation it's not too dificult to drill and place outlets in the lower log if they are substantial diameter say 14". The log hangs over the inside of the foundation. Once you carve out a niche for the outlet box you will have a nice angle to drill down.

For light switches you will have to feed at the door jamb area up and down.

Just a thought
 
LarryFine said:
Any chance you can observe the work in progress? It would make for a most valuable education.
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Yes I can observe the work in progress.



"So are you saying that the logs are set on a concrete slab on grade foundation?

If it is a raised foundation it's not too dificult to drill and place outlets in the lower log if they are substantial diameter say 14". The log hangs over the inside of the foundation. Once you carve out a niche for the outlet box you will have a nice angle to drill down.

For light switches you will have to feed at the door jamb area up and down."


It has a full basement under it. The logs are D shape, flat inside, 8 x 10. The floor joist are 2 x 12's most places.
 
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