110vac 1phs motor.

Status
Not open for further replies.

kda3310

Senior Member
I have a 1ph 110v motor on my hot tub with three wires coming out marked Hi, line, and Low. The motor is grounded out and the replacement motors leads are not marked the same. The new motors leads are marked 2, 3, and 4. Wich number is Hi, Line, and Low?
 

hurk27

Senior Member
Is there a diagram plate on the motor, or paperwork that came with it? motor lead marking can be manufacture specific and can vary from one to another, if there is a diagram and you have a digital camera see if you can post it?
 

Dennis Alwon

Moderator
Staff member
Location
Chapel Hill, NC
Occupation
Retired Electrical Contractor
The Line I would guess is the neutral--What colors are they. Once you find the neutral -- often blue or white then the other two can be guessed at. I assume the new motor is 120V also. You don't see many hot tubs that are 120V
 

G._S._Ohm

Senior Member
Location
DC area
I have a 1ph 110v motor on my hot tub with three wires coming out marked Hi, line, and Low. The motor is grounded out and the replacement motors leads are not marked the same. The new motors leads are marked 2, 3, and 4. Wich number is Hi, Line, and Low?
Measure the resistance from each lead to each other lead and then the motor shell to one of the three leads, four readings in all, and post them.
 

kda3310

Senior Member
Didn't think about measuring resistance. I like that. All three wires are black. I got the motor off of ebay and it has no paperwork and no diagram. Some times saving money takes moore work. I will get back with you later.
 

hurk27

Senior Member
The Line I would guess is the neutral--What colors are they. Once you find the neutral -- often blue or white then the other two can be guessed at. I assume the new motor is 120V also. You don't see many hot tubs that are 120V

Many of the "portable" ones around here have 120 volt motors and controls and will run off a 120 volt 20 amp circuit with lower heat rating (if you consider a 3,000 pound hot tub portable) but they also will convert to a 120/240 volt 4-wire hookup with full heat, many have a blue wire as a neutral as they are produced in Europe.
 

Dennis Alwon

Moderator
Staff member
Location
Chapel Hill, NC
Occupation
Retired Electrical Contractor
Many of the "portable" ones around here have 120 volt motors and controls and will run off a 120 volt 20 amp circuit with lower heat rating (if you consider a 3,000 pound hot tub portable) but they also will convert to a 120/240 volt 4-wire hookup with full heat, many have a blue wire as a neutral as they are produced in Europe.

I know- I wire a few that were full size tubs. They come with a rubber cord and a gfci male plug attached to the unit. 120V-- I wonder if the op has a 3 phase motor???
 

Dennis Alwon

Moderator
Staff member
Location
Chapel Hill, NC
Occupation
Retired Electrical Contractor
i see a lot of 120v pumps; its the heating element that's 240v, and in many cases can be converted to 120. on a standard convertible balboa heat pack, 240v will get you 5.5kw and 120 around 2kw.

I have seen the entire tub- elements and all hooked to 120V 20 amp circuit. I have no idea how long it must take to heat that sucker. Seems crazy.
 

hurk27

Senior Member
i see a lot of 120v pumps; its the heating element that's 240v, and in many cases can be converted to 120. on a standard convertible balboa heat pack, 240v will get you 5.5kw and 120 around 2kw.

I know the Hot Spring Prodigy has two 3kw 230 volt elements that they run one element at 120 volts when wired for just a 120 volt 20 amp circuit plug in, which it uses 1500 watts, and takes a couple days to reach temp, and without using the insulated cover it wont maintain temp, had a customer complain that their electric bill went through the roof (over $600.00) and I told them they have to keep it covered with the insulated cover when not in use so the heater will cycle off, and they wont have to add as much water from evaporation.

Many home owners do not realize how much electric these hot tubs will run up their electric to, and are shocked when they get their first bill after installing one, many are very poorly insulated and its like having a 4 or 5 hundred gallon electric water heater going all the time, with poor insulation to boot, I have seen one that has a remote gas fired insta-hot water heater that will bring it to temp in less then 5 minutes which is the way I would go, that way you don't need to leave it heating all the time unless its outdoors in the winter, but it still would be cheaper then electric.
 
Last edited:

kwired

Electron manager
Location
NE Nebraska
I suggest testing this motor before installing it.

First I would measure resistance between all three leads. Assuming is is a two speed single phase motor I would consider the leads with the highest resistance to be the two input speeds and the remaining lead to be the common lead. I would apply rated voltage accordingly to see if motor responds as expected. I don't think you will hurt much if you have leads wrong and do not load it especially for extended periods of time. When running you will want to apply some load to the shaft to see how it responds to a demand for more torque. Simply pressing a block of wood against the rotating shaft will work.

If you should accidently apply voltage between the two speed leads I suspect the motor will have little or no torque but will suffer very little if any harm if not energized for very long.
 

kda3310

Senior Member
I suggest testing this motor before installing it.

First I would measure resistance between all three leads. Assuming is is a two speed single phase motor I would consider the leads with the highest resistance to be the two input speeds and the remaining lead to be the common lead. I would apply rated voltage accordingly to see if motor responds as expected. I don't think you will hurt much if you have leads wrong and do not load it especially for extended periods of time.

I think your right about measuring resistance. It should tell me all I need to know. Thanks.
 

G._S._Ohm

Senior Member
Location
DC area
I would apply rated voltage accordingly to see if motor responds as expected. I don't think you will hurt much if you have leads wrong and do not load it especially for extended periods of time.
For even less risk to the motor, an incand. bulb in series with the supply voltage makes a current limited power source.
One of these 500 W shop lights is probably large enough, and for smaller motors even 100 W might be enough to get it spinning.

If you mix up the hot and neutral leads the motor insulation may not last as long but I can't find a link to prove or disprove this.
 

brantmacga

Señor Member
Location
Georgia
Occupation
Former Child
Why is it that the home owner will always change their mind to where they want the hot tub only after it has been filled LOL

I had a spa guy do that to me a few weeks ago after he realized he set the tub in a position that the steps could not be installed. i had finished 5 minutes earlier, @ 5PM on a friday 90 minutes from home. the tub was half way filled with water, which meant i'd have to wait from them to drain, then disconnect wiring, wait for them to move it, and finally reconnect.

i suppose they expected me to do this for free, as they were quite shocked at the additional quote i gave for this.

when i left the spa guy was disconnecting the wiring.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top