stranded wire & screws

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Cut the insulation farther back than usual ..... pull the insulation forward, but not completelt off. Let the insulation hold the ends of the strands together. Wrap the exposed portion around the screw.
 
Stranded wire

Stranded wire

Cut the insulation farther back than usual ..... pull the insulation forward, but not completelt off. Let the insulation hold the ends of the strands together. Wrap the exposed portion around the screw.

I use similar a technique, add twisting/gripping insulation, then wrapping CW around screw terminal.
I will try the CCW technique. ;)
 
whether it is under a screw or under a preassure plate, I use the CCW technique as mentioned earlier.
 
I strip the wire but leave the last 1/8" of insulation at the end of the wire. wrap around the screw and tighten. Then clip of the insulated part.
 
They're tested and listed for use with stranded wire.

UL does not test them using the common method of attaching a crimp-on fork to the wire and then placing that under the screw. Their official spokesman says such a use is 'not approved,' but I know firdthand that this is the practice within their own labs.
 
I don't have any special methods, I just twist them tight, wrap the screw, tighten the screw and move on.

Not usually very pretty but none the less a good connection.
 
Start about 1 1/4" back from the end of the wire.
Close the stripper and strip about 1/2" of insulation back to expose the conductor.
Wrap the exposed conductor around the screw.
Tighten the screw.
Leave the tails on.

JAP.
 
I would buy a the receptacle with a pressure plate or use a fork terminal especially if you're using #10 stranded. Otherwise you end up with gems like this: :)

IMG_0329.JPG
 
Some people might confuse the twisting CCW with wrapping CCW.

I strip the wire leaving about 1/8" of insulation on the end to help hold the strands together then twist the strands CCW. Then I bend the the strands in a hook CW and put under the screw. The CCW twisting of the strands helps them pull under the screw instead of wanting to fall out from under it when it is tightened.
 
I'm with Infinity, if I know I'm going to use stranded I will buy devices with pressure plates. I truly detest wrapping stranded around screws even with a short piece of insulation on the end.
 
I would buy a the receptacle with a pressure plate or use a fork terminal especially if you're using #10 stranded. Otherwise you end up with gems like this: :)

IMG_0329.JPG

This device has a pressure plate, the installer chose not to use it.
 
This device has a pressure plate, the installer chose not to use it.

This installer also needlessly tapes his wirenuts,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, with white tape even,,,,,,,, that pretty much tells the story of what all that doesnt need to be done.
 
The UL Guide Information (White Book) for switches and receptacles does not have the same wording.
From RTRT for receptacles
Terminals of the wire-binding screw, setscrew, or screw-actuated back-wired clamping types are suitable for use with both solid and stranded building wires.
From WJQR for switches.
Terminals of the wire-binding screw, setscrew, or screw-actuated back-wired clamping types are suitable for use with solid building wires unless otherwise indicated either on the device or in the installation instructions.
 
That device's EGC terminal has no pressure plate.

Rob had posted it a long time ago, I had blown it up then to show that the brass you see goes into the device, it does not move.

0d8726bb.jpg

I have seen brass plates that look like this but they do move. Guess we need actual part number to know for sure. Your closeup shows the brass is not a 'flat' plate, it definitley has a groove in it under the screw. This is for trapping some type of wire.
 
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