Spa Connection

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Aledrell

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Terminal block of spa has 4 port block.
TL1 black wire on the load
TL2 2 wires on the load side of the terminal
TL3 2 black wires on load side of the terminal
TL4 has no wires connected to load side of the block.
There’s an obvious grounding bar as well.
How are supposed to hook this up? Owner manual had 5 different ways but non- of the diagram showed the situation I had in front of me. Any thoughts? Thx
 
91DC449F-409D-4365-B780-BACC2A9F1F69.jpeg
so t2 has 2 white wires on load side.
So safe to assume L1 connects at T1
N connects at T2 and L2 connects at T3....and T4 has no wire and there for gets not connects.
it’s a spa we do lots of these right?
 
I just read a post on another forum where their hot tub required dual voltage connections. Two separate disconnects. I wasn’t really following the thread, just skimmed over it but it stuck out as unique to me.

Can you post the installation instructions?


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pjones said:
I just read a post on another forum where their hot tub required dual voltage connections. Two separate disconnects. I wasn’t really following the thread, just skimmed over it but it stuck out as unique to me.

Can you post the installation instructions?


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Click to expand...

Yes - some spas are now designed to have heaters & pumps on separate circuits.
 
Looks most likely to me the thing needs 120/240 (2 hots and neutral) supply. Minimum conductor size/overcurrent protection needed - see nameplate.

4th terminal that is not used is probably just standard frame used on multiple units, this one just happens to not need that termination, others might. Some those units that need two circuits may very well use that fourth terminal.
 
Assuming you have 240V three wire with the neutral (120V) coming in plus ground...
Doesn't Figure D on page 17 sum it up pretty well for the incoming power.
For Figure D for the existing internal wire, says to switch the upper right hand red wire down to the lower right hand terminal.

Per page 12 ( 1 pump) or 13 (2 pumps) assuming 60hz, says to use a 40 amp (3#8 + #10 ground wire) 2 pole breaker for maximum use of power.
 
The incoming power connections is pretty straight forward. Wire it according to number of wires, either 3 or 4 wire. You should use the info for the model number of the tub.
As for moving anything on the terminal board, I only saw where you would need to move one wire, depending on if heaters and pumps run at the same time in all speeds.
CAUTION (For 4-wire 240 VAC Heater Operation): Move the red wire on the main terminal
strip (TB1) from position #1 to position #3. Make certain wires are connected exactly as shown
in Figure D before applying power. Failure to do so will result in damage to the circuit board
and/or related components and void the manufacturer’s warranty.

I've wired a number of hot tubs, and in my experience, if the tub has option of 50A or 60A you want to choose the 60A. That's because this method allows all pumps and heaters to run at the same time in all speeds. Also take note that sometimes what they call a 40A or 48A is in reality a 50A or 60A circuit. That's because they didn't figure in the 125% for motors.
40A x 125% = 50A
48A x 125% = 60A
 
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Little Bill said:
The incoming power connections is pretty straight forward. Wire it according to number of wires, either 3 or 4 wire. You should use the info for the model number of the tub.
As for moving anything on the terminal board, I only saw where you would need to move one wire, depending on if heaters and pumps run at the same time in all speeds.
CAUTION (For 4-wire 240 VAC Heater Operation): Move the red wire on the main terminal
strip (TB1) from position #1 to position #3. Make certain wires are connected exactly as shown
in Figure D before applying power. Failure to do so will result in damage to the circuit board
and/or related components and void the manufacturer’s warranty.

I've wired a number of hot tubs, and in my experience, if the tub has option of 50A or 60A you want to choose the 60A. That's because this method allows all pumps and heaters to run at the same time in all speeds. Also take note that sometimes what they call a 40A or 48A is in reality a 50A or 60A circuit. That's because they didn't figure in the 125% for motors.
40A x 125% = 50A
48A x 125% = 60A
Click to expand...

Well there’s no red wire in the photo. And I wired it color to color like we typically would a 4- wire connector. But when I turned gfci breaker on in the panel it’s tripped the 70 amp sub-Panel feed breaker at the main box. So I disconnected it and it held. So I asked owner for the manual and he gave me this link. Called the company and they. Said were get this call all the time only our electricians knew hue to wire our spas.” And I thought perhaps the common denominator is you idiots but didn’t say it. She then emails me I different excerpt from a different manual. Turns out these things don’t even take a neutral and create their own neutral. How the GFCI monitors anything worth a spit without it I’m sure idk but now I may have to replace a mother board and I don’t think this should be on me. If this manufacture used industry standard color coding or had instructions on the control box cover this would not have happened. Any thoughts? Thx guys.




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powerpete69 said:
Assuming you have 240V three wire with the neutral (120V) coming in plus ground...
Doesn't Figure D on page 17 sum it up pretty well for the incoming power.
For Figure D for the existing internal wire, says to switch the upper right hand red wire down to the lower right hand terminal.

Per page 12 ( 1 pump) or 13 (2 pumps) assuming 60hz, says to use a 40 amp (3#8 + #10 ground wire) 2 pole breaker for maximum use of power.
Click to expand...

There was no red wire on the terminal block load so I didn’t assume the manual was for this unit. So a #4 feeds a 4 space pool/spa sub on a 70 and its #6 to the spa dropped the N to #8 and 10 G.


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