Pool Bonding

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Marshall Block

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Calabasas, California
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General Contractor & Swimming Pool Contractor
A pool was never bonded from the structural steel. What they did to satisfy the situation was to mount a 6" x 6" metal plater to the outs of the concrete
structure of pool and run #8 solid wire to the equipment and other required bonding items. Is a solution that will satisfy the bonding?
 
I agree and seems it would make it more dangerous for step potential as the entire surface wouldn't be bonded, only the outside portions with the steel plates.
 
No good.

The rebar has to be exposed, and the proper bond clamp must be attached with a #8 wire. It then must be run back to the equipment and bonded accordingly.

Also, 4 points around the pool must be bonded to the rebar, and the the tails must be attached to the perimeter bond wire prior to any patio work.

You'll need a chipping hammer to find that rebar. Will be a poke and hope, but the only way. I generally patch the hole after an inspection with hydraulic cement to keep moisture away from the steel.

We've had to do this on renovations to bring everything to current code.

As said, refer to 680 for other specifications
 
Mystic Pools said:
No good.

The rebar has to be exposed, and the proper bond clamp must be attached with a #8 wire. It then must be run back to the equipment and bonded accordingly.

Also, 4 points around the pool must be bonded to the rebar, and the the tails must be attached to the perimeter bond wire prior to any patio work.

You'll need a chipping hammer to find that rebar. Will be a poke and hope, but the only way. I generally patch the hole after an inspection with hydraulic cement to keep moisture away from the steel.

We've had to do this on renovations to bring everything to current code.

As said, refer to 680 for other specifications
Click to expand...
When you're "poking holes" for the four points how do you attach it to the perimeter bond? Or are you adding that, too ? Because I'm assuming the perimeter #8 is not their as well. Seems you would need to cut a trough not just holes. Just trying to picture it, that's all.
 
Buck Parrish said:
When you're "poking holes" for the four points how do you attach it to the perimeter bond? Or are you adding that, too ? Because I'm assuming the perimeter #8 is not their as well. Seems you would need to cut a trough not just holes. Just trying to picture it, that's all.
Click to expand...

4 points, equidistant on the pool's perimeter, attached to the rebar.

We generally leave these tails about 6' long and drape them over our forms on new construction. After the concrete has been shot and the perimeter is graded and the patio sub-base is in place, we run the perimeter wire and connect to each tail with a direct burial split bolt. Stamped "DB"

The perimeter wire must be set 18"-24" back from the inside of the pool wall at a certain depth. Sub-base depth is often open to interpretation by the inspector. Any rebar or wire mesh in concrete patio pour, must be attached those tails.

The bond wire that runs back to the equipment, is attached to the rebar as well, and is run un-broken, to the pool equipment. We run this wire in the piping trench. Most times we keep the roll intact and leave it at the equipment pad.

I prefer hitting more than one point on the rebar when doing this part as I have a concern the shooting crew might break one off. The rebar clamps we use fit on 1/2" bar and run about $5 each. Not a big additional expense for peace of mind.

This procedure is no different for a reno job. Just finding the rebar is the hardest part.

Don't forget the water bond too!!
 
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