I bet you're right in it being 208V. I see a SP breaker on "B" phase. Unless high leg isn't on "B".That panel could be 240 high leg, but if it is the marking tape is wrong. ( not convention, reg leg in middle)
Could be 208.
need to measure voltage.
by the marking tape I’m betting 208
Well maybe. Check with your wholesale house as to the availability and price of a 240 volt breaker vs slash ratedThis is an artifact of the "keep it simple stupid" (K.I.S.S.) principle of engineering.
It is not worth the effort of a manufacturer to make a special version of the same breaker for both 240V and 208V. The 240V breaker is "backwards-compatible" with 208V by design, and needs no special components to make it work with 208V. Any marginal benefit you'd get with building a special version for slightly less voltage, is not going to justify the burden of doubling the variants of products you need to manufacture. For this reason, the exact same product is used for both 208V systems and 240V systems, and it will carry a 240V rating to be applicable to both voltage systems.
I don't see any "minis" and only a SP breaker in the high leg stab would have to be non slash rated. But agree it's most likely a 208V.Look super close and they're all 120/240 rated minis. You can't do that on the high leg, so my guess is 208Y/120.
Well maybe. Check with your wholesale house as to the availability and price of a 240 volt breaker vs slash rated
A straight rated breaker, as shown is far more expensive than a slash rated breaker 120/208, and most wholesale houses don't carry the straight rated breaker, esp around here as there are very few high leg services left. The 240 breakers at Platt Electric don't even show a price...
Its very easy to tell a high leg service if its overhead, its a big transformer and a little transformer, and typically fed from open delta primary. The other way to tell if its a high leg is there are two breakers and a space....the space being the 208 volt leg.
Yes that is possible. I used to work on motorola portable radios, the only difference between the 16 and 32 channel was the knob. to get the internal speaker to work, a jumper had to be cut, they were all the same, but you paid extra for the speaker. I think one of mods discussed this issue of breakers and perhaps he can add to this.My point still stands that for the line-to-line rated voltage, the manufacturers "bin" the breakers into the same category for 208V and 240V. I've never seen a fuse, a disconnect, or a breaker that spells out a rating of 208V. From what I've seen, breakers in the US/Canada market are binned into the categories of 240V, 480V, and 600V, some of which are slash-rated and some of which are straight-rated. It is also common that the same breaker is rated for all three of the above voltages, but with significantly less KAIC rating at higher voltages.