Would work, picky inspectors might cry listing issues.The PB2-300 is the right profile for the space I have. I am wondering if it would be permitted to strip out enough insulation on the first feeder to slide it though the first lug and have it continue and land on the factory lug in the disco, then connect send wire in the second lug.
I would cut off the mounting hole part. Would that be legal?
You might need to position them 90 degrees from what you are thinking of, don't know if you have room to connect in this lug then land in your disconnect's lug or notThanks, I have used these but I don't know if I have the room side to side
Might work that way, i'll check tomorrow. Thanks for the suggestions.You might need to position them 90 degrees from what you are thinking of, don't know if you have room to connect in this lug then land in your disconnect's lug or not
Don't forget to respect the ampacity of that short length of the single conductor.I am wondering if it would be permitted to strip out enough insulation on the first feeder to slide it though the first lug and have it continue and land on the factory lug in the disco, then connect send wire in the second lug.
I wonder what the ampacity of a "1/2 Inch Dia X 4 Inch L Stud" is.quick search I found this. https://www.gordonelectricsupply.co...RyejBuoKXZNnqkg5HWjlO4PBbxpHw8AMaAlOwEALw_wcB
did not completely read the specs but looks like #10 min to max 250
Could just use a split bolt if space is tight. Joe, why not just remove the factory lug and use the one kwired posted?Would work, picky inspectors might cry listing issues.
If so GTA-250-250 should work.
View attachment 2555401 Also has an optional insulating cover that can go with it.
it's all 200 amp wire on a 200 amp disconnect. Am I missing something?Don't forget to respect the ampacity of that short length of the single conductor.
That would be the best option, I just wasn't sure I was able/allowed to remove the factory lug without voiding terms of use with disconnect manufacture(SQD)Could just use a split bolt if space is tight. Joe, why not just remove the factory lug and use the one kwired posted?
That would be the best option, I just wasn't sure I was able/allowed to remove the factory lug without voiding terms of use with disconnect manufacture(SQD)
No, I didn't see the wire size mentioned before.it's all 200 amp wire on a 200 amp disconnect. Am I missing something?
If you can buy the switch without lugs and it still be listed, I don't see why you could not add listed lugs to a switch that has no lugs.Some inspectors will cite that as "modifying listed equipment" and may cite something in 110.3. Personally I am fine swapping out listed lugs, but what I think doesnt matter.
"If you can buy the switch without lugs and it still be listed," you'd obviously have to be able to add them, so buy one and use the lugs you like best.If you can buy the switch without lugs and it still be listed, I don't see why you could not add listed lugs to a switch that has no lugs.
I can't envision that it would be easier to cut that double lug tap off and do what you asked than it would be to swap lugs.The PB2-300 is the right profile for the space I have. I am wondering if it would be permitted to strip out enough insulation on the first feeder to slide it though the first lug and have it continue and land on the factory lug in the disco, then connect send wire in the second lug.
I would cut off the mounting hole part. Would that be legal?
The counter argument to that is the manufacturer likely has a list of "approved" lugs. They probably don't say, "use any lug you want.". I don't have a problem with it, and do it all the time I'm just saying what some of these inspectors say."If you can buy the switch without lugs and it still be listed," you'd obviously have to be able to add them, so buy one and use the lugs you like best.