Pretty sure that info is out of date, and that lifetime $/kWh cycled through the battery is now lower for lithium ion than for lead-acid. Various references that come up on a simple google search support that; I'm not sure what an authoritative reference would be, though.
Usually I have seen that addressed with sealed battery boxes with vents to the outside.
If you are installing batteries in a room—Class X drywall on walls and ceilings is the least of your worries.
Lead acid batteries give off hydrogen gas while charging and even more so when overcharged.
Of course you can use sealed AGM or Lithium-Ion Batteries that don’t give off explosive hydrogen gas—but I don’t think OP is well prepared for that. Also fire danger is ever present.
Lithium-Ion Battery cost ten times as much compared to a garden variety LEAD-ACID battery. One 100Amp- hour Lithium-Ion costs over $1000 a pop--while a lead-acid is about $115.
Here’s more info:
Hydrogen Gas & Battery Charging | Safe Environments
During battery charging, oxygen and hydrogen are released after a cell has achieved approximately 95 % of its charge, during boost charging or overcharging and the resultant risk is required to be assessed under Part 3.1 of the NSW Workplace Health and Safety Regulation 2011www.safeenvironments.com.au
LiFePO4 battery chemistry is the way to go in my opinion. Nearly the energy density of Li-ion, without the explode-y fire tendencies. We use LiFePO4 batteries almost exclusively when powering portable lighting and automation effects in TV studios. The directors like the long run times, light weight, and safety.If you are installing batteries in a room—Class X drywall on walls and ceilings is the least of your worries.
Lead acid batteries give off hydrogen gas while charging and even more so when overcharged.
Of course you can use sealed AGM or Lithium-Ion Batteries that don’t give off explosive hydrogen gas—but I don’t think OP is well prepared for that. Also fire danger is ever present.
Lithium-Ion Battery cost ten times as much compared to a garden variety LEAD-ACID battery. One 100Amp- hour Lithium-Ion costs over $1000 a pop--while a lead-acid is about $115.
Here’s more info:
Hydrogen Gas & Battery Charging | Safe Environments
During battery charging, oxygen and hydrogen are released after a cell has achieved approximately 95 % of its charge, during boost charging or overcharging and the resultant risk is required to be assessed under Part 3.1 of the NSW Workplace Health and Safety Regulation 2011
I have been pricing these Li-ions since the start of this year and I found one make sold by Amazon.
realgoods.com
realgoods.com
realgoods.com
realgoods.com
Lol. Real Goods started selling solar equipment mail order in the 70s. They are arguably the most venerable vendor around.
The pricing wayne posted seems to be better. And ESS pricing we get as a contractor is even better.
I am a C10 license holder. I am also an engineer and registered Microsoft Network Engineer.
From your links--the cheapest Li-Ion battery costs $805 no shipping.Not sure if this is a reasonable vendor, but they list $/kWh-cycle for each of their products. Lithium LFP has the least expensive option, at $0.09 / kWh-cycle. The cheapest lead acid option is $0.15 / kWh-cycle.
Lithium LFP Solar Batteries | Deep Cycle Solar Batteries
Free shipping on lithium LFP deep cycle solar batteries. Lithium solar batteries cycle deeply (up to 100), are maintenance-free and great for solar storage.Flooded Lead Acid Batteries | Deep Cycle Solar Batteries
Free shipping on deep cycle flooded lead acid batteries for solar energy storage. Flooded solar batteries are cheap and good for full-time off-grid homes.Sealed Lead Acid AGM Batteries | Deep Cycle Solar Batteries
Free shipping on deep cycle AGM batteries. Absorbed Glass Mat (AGM) batteries are sealed, low-maintenance, and good for intermittent off-grid deep cycling.Sealed Lead Acid Gel Batteries | Deep Cycle Solar Batteries
Free shipping on deep cycle gel batteries for solar energy storage. Gel batteries use sealed cells, are low-maintenance, and fit for intermittent deep cycling.
Cheers, Wayne
Be really careful to understand what you are getting on Amazon these days. They pretty much let anyone sell using their system and there are some sketchy vendors on there. So if it's Bob's House of Questionable Batteries selling through Amazon know your vendor.
The links were to Real Goods (very trustworthy IMO) but the point is well taken.
The PW cell service can be very erratic. You can configure it to your in-house network connection via wifi, or via an ethernet cable right to your router. You have to enter the PW's own interface using the built-in TEG wifi to do this. In our house, the PW is too far from the router to run a cable directly to it, so I rigged up a Ethernet over Powerline bridge and that works nicely. Message me if you want more details.
There are many unscrupulous vendors of solar gear out there. They'd have you believe you can dispense with the grid completely and have no more electric bills. I think this is entirely delusional. We live in Puerto Rico, we have LOTS of sun, but somedays there's no sun...just cloudy and rainy. You can't live on the sun if there isn't any. So while we are off-grid 99.9% of the time, there are days when there's not enough sun to charge the PW sufficiently to carry us through the night and into the next day when hopefully, we'll have sun. So what do you do? You don't want to discharge the PW to the point where it shuts down...it might not restart itself without a visit from a tech, again, depending on how discharged it is and when the sun returns. So when that no-sun day arrives, we open the grid breaker around sundown and let the grid charge the PW to about 85%, then shut it off, go to bed and hope there's sun next day. We don't leave the grid breaker on because we don't have a sell-back system and don't want one. Also, if we are doing laundry and need to use the electric dryer, which soaks up almost 4Kw, we unload the house completely from the PW with a separate switch, and put the house directly on the grid. The PW will continue to charge even faster, since there's no load on it, and when the laundry is finished, the house goes back on the PW, all with just that one separate switch (not the grid breaker mentioned above). We've been using it this way for nearly 4 years and our monthly electric bill hovers around $12.00, and we've NEVER not had power. The number of times we've needed the grid to top off the PW are few and far between, but sometimes you have to have it. If there's no sun and no grid, which has happened a few times, we have a gasoline generator which powers the whole house. No, it doesn't charge the PW, but we have power and hopefully the sun or the grid returns soon. Our installer didn't want to install it like that...he was going to eliminate the generator but I told him we're paying for it, it will get installed as we wish, which he did, all it required was that one extra separate switch to take the house off the PW and onto the grid, and the vendor threw that it as a freebie. Tesla says it's just fine and completely with specs. Just message me if you want more details, but I think we have the perfect combination of power supplies.
