80 amp car charger - yikes !

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I've done a few gen installs for friends in the last couple months.
2 in particular where out of curiosity I had them turn on everything; dryer, oven, toaster, hair dryer, dishwasher, every light... as much load as they could demand.
They were both good sized homes and one has a full detached garage converted to wood shop with professional level woodworking tools.
The one had a draw of 95 amps.
The other with the woodshop needed to kick in his table saw, drill press, and dust collector to get over 100 amps.
I would do the same amp clamp audit just for curiosity but I think you're fine.
 
I agree it will be fine

Just an observation.

With smart meters now in place I've been making a point to check the peak demand that's on them whenever I work at a residence. It's surprising how low most all the demand numbers are. Ive kept a rough record of the numbers and have found an average to be around 9KW. I checked an all electric...
forums.mikeholt.com
 
I'm obviously missing this. A CAR charger? Cars are usually 12V. That would be just less than 1 kW.
 
I didn’t realize the final specs were out yet for the F150 Lightning.
You’d better ask him if he also wants to power the house from the truck. It’s supposed to have that capability.
 
dccelectric.com

DCC-9 The Best Solution for Electric Vehicle Charging in Condos

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Here is a link to a switch that monitors the load and shuts off the car charger if the system is drawing too much power.
 

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If that’s a level 3 charger I would talk your customer out of it. Those are hell on the batteries charging that fast. Or is it for a
Double level 2 charger ?
 
I agree with Dennis in Post #10. You can not determine until you do a load calculation. The answer for a house with gas heat & appliances will be different from one that;'s all electric.
The device in Post #11 seems to be rated 125amp max. If there is a 200 amp version, that could be a solution.
 
augie47 said:
I agree with Dennis in Post #10. You can not determine until you do a load calculation. The answer for a house with gas heat & appliances will be different from one that;'s all electric.
The device in Post #11 seems to be rated 125amp max. If there is a 200 amp version, that could be a solution.
Click to expand...
They also have a 200 amp version according to the website.
 
Terminator5047 said:
If that’s a level 3 charger I would talk your customer out of it. Those are hell on the batteries charging that fast. Or is it for a
Double level 2 charger ?
Click to expand...

Level 2 supplies 240 VAC, it’s not really a charger, the charging equipment in the vehicle. It can be any current level.

What you call “Level 3” is actually a DC fast charger - it really is a charger that supplies DC at battery voltage. They are rated in KW, not Amps.
 
I'm going to run a 125 amp sub panel to the garage. (for his current electric car and possible future F150 charger) I don't understand how this will work though. Normally, for generator customers, we order an interlok kit on line for the main panel and run a line to an outside receptacle for those who have a portable generator. Easy enough. But this line we will not be running it to a generator receptacle but to a sub panel. How to set this up is still an unknown to me. Any suggestion is welcome.
 
Stevenfyeager said:
I'm going to run a 125 amp sub panel to the garage. (for his current electric car and possible future F150 charger) I don't understand how this will work though. Normally, for generator customers, we order an interlok kit on line for the main panel and run a line to an outside receptacle for those who have a portable generator. Easy enough. But this line we will not be running it to a generator receptacle but to a sub panel. How to set this up is still an unknown to me. Any suggestion is welcome.
Click to expand...
Can't be done legally, if this is going to be used to also back feed the panel an interlock must be in place to prevent back feed to the utility. Someone could get seriously hurt otherwise. Not sure how Ford sets up to change from charging mode to generator mode, seems should have seperate connection points and style to be code compliant. If so a main panel interlock and a seperate feed for use as generator would/could be used, and configured as any other portable generator connection.
 
In theory I see no reason Ford can't have it's EVSE unit switch modes if it receives a signal from an ATS. But I've seen no evidence they've developed such a feature. My guess is that you'd have to do as Fred says. Either way you'd not be able to use a simple interlock kit on the subpanel (unless you're satisfied with only the subpanel being powered).
 
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