#10 on a 15 amp single pole switch

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Buck Parrish

Buck Parrish

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Can you put a #10 on a 15 amp single pole switch ? Is the switch listed for that? I know it will barely fit but didn't know if it is code compliant.
 
Doesn't the UL category information require that the screw terminals accept #10 Cu? Or is that only for receptacles?

Cheers, Wayne
 
Does anyone every use a crimp ring terminal or fork terminal for such a situation?
 
110.14 allows up to #10 on binding screws. As Wayne stated I believe that it is part of the listing of the switch to also allow #10's to terminated directly to the screws.
 
LBarlow said:
I'm fairly certain that a generic 15 amp single pole light switch, specs only allow for a maximum of a #12awg conductor. FWIW
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I believe you are correct. This is for a 15 amp switch

Pass & Seymour TradeMaster® toggle switches combines a traditional look with reliable, time-tested operation for any residential application. Its smooth, quite toggle action makes it perfect for bedrooms, hallways, or any other place a switch is used. Combine with a color matched Pass & Seymour wall plate to complete the look.
  • High-impact resistant thermoplastic construction
  • Narrow back body leaves more room for wires in the electrical box
  • Easy-access green hex head ground screw
  • Side wire terminal screws #12 – #14 AWG solid wire; push wire terminals accept #14 AWG solid cooper wire only
  • Tri-drive ground, terminal, and mounting screws
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This is for a 20 amp switch

20a, 120/277V, white, Grounding, premium single pole toggle switch, UL, federal specification, CSA, tested to 25000 on/off cycles, side wire termination accepts #14 through #10 AWG stranded & solid copper wire, high impact resistant thermoplastic constructions, commercial/specification grade, window box. The product is good to use. The product is highly durable.
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Thanks, the HVAC guys ran a new 10-2 to the gas furnace switch. (A little small handy box with the transformer attached.) The hot fell off and hit the metal cabinet burning something up in the furnace. Also changing a panel out. I don't know how perhaps it hit the neutral. Their saying the brand new furnace needs replacing at $2900.
 
Buck Parrish said:
Thanks, the HVAC guys ran a new 10-2 to the gas furnace switch. (A little small handy box with the transformer attached.) The hot fell off and hit the metal cabinet burning something up in the furnace. Also changing a panel out. I don't know how perhaps it hit the neutral. Their saying the brand new furnace needs replacing at $2900.
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Why are you allowing the hvac to run the wiring? Did they hook up the switch and the wire to the unit? Sounds like they want you to eat it so I am guessing you did the hookup
 
Btw, if a short circuit causes that much damage then there is something wrong with the equipment. Surely the motherboard could be replaced and not the entire unit.
 
Dennis Alwon said:
Why are you allowing the hvac to run the wiring? Did they hook up the switch and the wire to the unit? Sounds like they want you to eat it so I am guessing you did the hookup
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No They did it befor I got there. No permits no inspections here, everybody does any thing they want. Makes me miss inspections belive it or not. At least then most things are done in an orderly fahion.
I was wiring a house the insulators were already insulating. I had to tell the home owners to stop them.
 
Also you see the wierdest material used here. Such as 10-2 to a 15 amp gas furnace. The only reason some one would wire it with 10/2 is because they didn't have 12 or 14 and did not want to drive an hour each way to get the proper wire.
 
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