Out Building GFCI breaker

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the blur

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I'm dealing with an out-building. Detached garage with a basement. There is a garage door operator that has an outlet in the ceiling.
Does this need to be GFCI protected? (like the rest of the outlets in the structure).

He is getting nuisance tripping. No rhyme or reason. Then can't open the door.

I can't replicate the problem, and I tried 3 times. The garage door operator outlet is connected to 4 other outlets in the structure above. No other appliances are plugged in anywhere. Everything is EMT, with a 12ga ground in the EMT. All THHN.
 
I'm dealing with an out-building. Detached garage with a basement. There is a garage door operator that has an outlet in the ceiling.
Does this need to be GFCI protected? (like the rest of the outlets in the structure).

He is getting nuisance tripping. No rhyme or reason. Then can't open the door.

I can't replicate the problem, and I tried 3 times. The garage door operator outlet is connected to 4 other outlets in the structure above. No other appliances are plugged in anywhere. Everything is EMT, with a 12ga ground in the EMT. All THHN.
Yes, the receptacle for the opener has to be on a GFCI. I don't agree with that, but it is what the code says.
 
From what I'm reading you have a GFCI receptacle in the detached garage. This GFCI is being used feed thru to four other receptacle outlets.
The circuit originate in a panle located in the detached garage.

What you could do is replace all receptacles with GFCI's then you can find the issue.
This will rule out any feed thru wiring issue. Line side connections only.

If the GFCI on the opener only trips than you can conclude the issue is in the opener.

If the problem goes away then the issue would be some type of issue in the circuit wireing.
 
From what I'm reading you have a GFCI receptacle in the detached garage. This GFCI is being used feed thru to four other receptacle outlets.
The circuit originate in a panle located in the detached garage.

What you could do is replace all receptacles with GFCI's then you can find the issue.
This will rule out any feed thru wiring issue. Line side connections only.

If the GFCI on the opener only trips than you can conclude the issue is in the opener.

If the problem goes away then the issue would be some type of issue in the circuit wireing.
Cheapskate me would put one on the GD and one protecting the rest. (If possible)
For the price of a GFCI it may not be worth the effort to segregate them.

It never hurts to try a new GFCI. They do fail eventually.
 
Yes, the receptacle for the opener has to be on a GFCI. I don't agree with that, but it is what the code says.
It's a relatively recent (if you are old like me) change though. It USED TO BE that a ceiling mounted receptacle that is there ONLY for the GD opener was allowed to not be GFCI protected. That changed in I believe the 2008 Code. So if the house was built prior to your state adopting the 2008 Code, it would be permissible for that receptacle to be non-GFCI.

Another approach would be to run a new circuit for JUST that receptacle from a non-GFCI breaker, then try different brands of GFCI receptacles until you find one that doesn't nuisance trip. GFCIs can be temperamental and not all manufacturers use the same "secret sauce" (algorithm) inside. I have found it very common that I can swap brands and have no more issues. Unfortunately you can't do that with breakers, hence changing the circuit to be fed from a regular breaker.
 
It's a relatively recent (if you are old like me) change though. It USED TO BE that a ceiling mounted receptacle that is there ONLY for the GD opener was allowed to not be GFCI protected. That changed in I believe the 2008 Code. So if the house was built prior to your state adopting the 2008 Code, it would be permissible for that receptacle to be non-GFCI.

Another approach would be to run a new circuit for JEST that receptacle from a non-GFCI breaker, then try different brands of GFCI receptacles until you find one that doesn't nuisance trip. GFCIs can be temperamental and not all manufacturers use the same "secret sauce" (algorithm) inside. I have found it very common that I can swap brands and have no more issues. Unfortunately you can't do that with breakers, hence changing the circuit to be fed from a regular breaker.
If the receptacle/circuit is non GFCI installed before the change it can stay. But if you are replacing it and it is in an area that requires GFCI, then you have to use a GFCI.
 
I should have stated it's on a GFCI breaker. Not outlet. So the entire circuit is nuisance tripping, and nothing is plugged in. I had the garage door operator unplugged for a while, and it still trips. The EMT is packed solid, so I can't even attempt to replace just the THHN.
I just wanted to run a non GFCI circuit to the door operator, but it appears it's required. Thank you.

I believe it a noise issue from a new 25amp 2 pole electric heater. Totally different conduit, but that's the only thing that changed..
 
Ok take out the breaker and install GFCI receptacles.
Have you tried to replace the GFCI breaker.
Is there another GFCI breaker in panle that you can switch to see if it is bad before buying new.
EMT packed solid does not sound good.
 
I would go to what I thought was the middle of the circuit and open the circuit. Then if I could I'd monitor the circuit to see if the problem goes away. If it stops you know about where it is. If it trips keep making the circuit shorter until it stops.
 
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