Kitchen hoods

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here in Massachusetts we have a carbon monixide sensor in the kitchen that shuts off the gas valve solenoid opon CO alarm. so we have mechanical and electric gas valve in series. there are a few systems available , which the electrician DOES NOT provide.
 
Im not able to upload the image. But I used one of the micro switches for the MAU and Exhaust fan and the other one for hood lights and receptacles.
 
That's exactly how you would wire a system from scratch, if there was no control box. Plus, your diagram shows contactors which would normally remain energized 24/7, not shunt-trips.

A real control box will have input terminals for panel power, lighting power, fan power, maybe more, output terminals for lights, fans, gas valve, maybe more, and terminals for a micro-switch, maybe more.
 
Im not able to upload the image. But I used one of the micro switches for the MAU and Exhaust fan and the other one
LarryFine said:
That's exactly how you would wire a system from scratch, if there was no control box, except you have no shunt-trip output. The horn/strobe wire would work IF the shunt-trips can withstand continuous energization.

A real control box will have input terminals for panel power, lighting power, fan power, maybe more, output terminals for lights, fans, gas valve, maybe more, and terminals for a micro-switch, maybe more.
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It’s one of those red boxes. It has a DPDT switch I used both and suppression system guy is saying I can only use one because the other side is for Fire Alarm. Everything works like is suppose to but now I have to wire everything on just one pole of the micro switch. Thinking about using contactors
 
FZ91 said:
It’s one of those red boxes. It has a DPDT switch I used both and suppression system guy is saying I can only use one because the other side is for Fire Alarm. Everything works like is suppose to but now I have to wire everything on just one pole of the micro switch. Thinking about using contactors
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Then you don't have a control box, you only have two micro-switches.

I suggest using a contactor for each fan.

Relocate your six wires from the micro-switches to a simple 120v-coil DPDT relay, and use just two wires from one of the micro-switches to control that relay.

Are you going to use appliance contactors, or do you intend to use shunt-trip breakers for them? If the latter, can they withstand continuous power?
 
I just realized you're not the original poster. That's why I keep mentioning shunt-trip breakers.
 
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