I’m assuming a gas one? It would be a ridiculous size for any length of time for electric. Igniter and exhaust fan shouldn’t be too big of a load, but the run time wouldn’t be all that great because the inverter would be running even when the water heater wasn’t.
They do, but I’m assuming they want it for a backup for an extended amount of time, such as a couple hours or more. Even if the water heater is not used, the inverter will kill the battery fairly quickly.I believe some of the units have a flow switch that turns the power on when there is water flow.
But the inverter needs to be running to feed this switch to know when there is flow....\I believe some of the units have a flow switch that turns the power on when there is water flow.
What's the typical vampire load for an inverter in this service? Consider the limiting case of this being the only load (~300 watts) and the inverter sized appropriately.I’m assuming a gas one? It would be a ridiculous size for any length of time for electric. Igniter and exhaust fan shouldn’t be too big of a load, but the run time wouldn’t be all that great because the inverter would be running even when the water heater wasn’t.
It is a flow switch. If water flows the units turns on.But the inverter needs to be running to feed this switch to know when there is flow....\
Unless you took the unit apart and rewired it..... Or added an external non-electronic flow switch and wiring....![]()
City pressure. No well waterok you've got hot...but what about the water?.or is it city water?
The water heater always draws some power in standby. When water flow is detected it will turn on to heat water.It is a flow switch. If water flows the units turns on.
Good point. It too has some parasitic load because for it to sense the water flow, some piece of electronics must be alive doing that sensing.The water heater always draws some power in standby. When water flow is detected it will turn on to heat water.
Even if there is no load power being drawn, the fact that the inverter is active will drain the batteries. It's referred to generically as the "inverter parasitic load", and should be listed in the UPS specifications or manual.
Many (if not most) companies consciously avoid stating relevant information, or even remove it if engineers provided it, to further their marketing goals. I worked as a technical writer for a time (after complaining about the manuals that my company was putting out) and experienced this first hand. I would be truthful about everything I thought a user or installing contractor needed to know about the equipment, the owner would frequently edit it to remove information that he felt was "less than flattering". His justification? "Everyone does it..."Kind of fun when a consumer discovers a deep dark secret that is ( or should be) specified on the data sheet
Some info relevant to the OP discussing the Jackery devices already mentioned in this thread: https://diysolarforum.com/threads/jackery-efficiency.24980/
-Jonathan
They are legit for sure, but I guess CS is not top priority (just an assumption based on my experience)Lets hope you hear from them and they are legit; sounds like you found a UPS specifically designed for just this sort of service.