Do halogen bulbs get hot?

[fastline]

Wattage of most light bulbs is not a indicator of current draw. While not directly related lamp wattage is usually used to compare relative light output.
Tungsten filaments have a positive temp coefficient, their resistance goes up as they get hotter.

Correct, wattage is power, not current... But 60W is 60W

 

[jim dungar]

Correct, wattage is power, not current... But 60W is 60W

Yes, when comparing two 60W bulbs operating at 100% voltage.
But not when one 60W bulb is at 95% and the other 60W bulb is at 105%V.

But in reality we don't split hairs this much, we simply use 'nameplate' watts when comparing light sources.

 

[fastline]

Yes, when comparing two 60W bulbs operating at 100% voltage.
But not when one 60W bulb is at 95% and the other 60W bulb is at 105%V.

But in reality we don't split hairs this much, we simply use 'nameplate' watts when comparing light sources.

I get that but what point were you trying to make? If it's halogen, it's not 60W (nominal)?

 

[jim dungar]

I get that but what point were you trying to make? If it's halogen, it's not 60W (nominal)?

Extended or rough service life 120V lamps are often simply 125V versions but they won't appear equal because of different basis used to determine wattage.

A 60W incandescent bulb will not look as bright as a 60W quartz bulb because they have different lumen/watt.

A 60W equivalent LED will have almost nothing in common with a 60W incandescent except maybe the lamp envelope.

Buying a lamp strictly based on its Wattage may have unexpected results.

 

[fastline]

Extended or rough service life 120V lamps are often simply 125V versions but they won't appear equal because of different basis used to determine wattage.

A 60W incandescent bulb will not look as bright as a 60W quartz bulb because they have different lumen/watt.

A 60W equivalent LED will have almost nothing in common with a 60W incandescent except maybe the lamp envelope.

Buying a lamp strictly based on its Wattage may have unexpected results.

The OP was specifically asking about 'heat', or probably more appropriately 'temperature', as the two are not the same.

Who is talking about "equivalent" bulbs? All are electrons on there that can generally understand the complete industry BS regarding 'equivalent'. That was a shit show from the CFL era.

A halogen has more lumens/watt than incand, but if she pulls 60W, she is again, going to make 60W of heat. If you want less heat, you run something with higher lumen efficiency.

 

[jim dungar]

The OP was specifically asking about 'heat', or probably more appropriately 'temperature', as the two are not the same.

The OP asked if a halogen lamp ran hotter than a similar sized incandescent.
The 60W rating of a lamp is based on the current drawn at 100% voltage it has little if nothing to do with how hot the bulb gets. Heat disappation involves, among other things, how hot the filament actually is and the size and shape of the lamp envelope.

 

[winnie]

Right. My point is that an A19 style halogen bulb will have very similar surface temperature to an A19 style incandescent bulb of the same wattage

Something like this:

53W 120V A19 Medium Screw E26 Clear Eco Halogen Light Bulb Long Life

Shop now for our 53W 120V A19 clear eco halogen light bulb - energy-efficient, bright illumination for your home with long-lasting performance and reliable medium screw base.

www.interlightus.com

Would have the similar surface temperature as something like this:

Satco S2992 60 Watt A19 Incandescent Clear 8000 Average rated hours 59

Satco S2992 60 Watt A19 Incandescent Clear 8000 Average rated hours 595 Lumens Medium base 120 Volt

www.payless-4-lighting.com

But notice that capsule inside the halogen bulb? The surface temperature of that capsule will be much higher.

 

[junkhound]

A FWIW on halogen bulbs unelated to garage door openers
Running on a dimmer runs a halogen lamp cooler, but that leads to deposits on the inside of the quartz envelope and decrease light.

 

[fastline]

I really thought we moved on to better than 30s technology.

 

[kwired]

You guys apparently haven't been burnt by a hot halogen bulb. I think they are way hotter than an incandescent bulb, especially the tube type like used in construction lights.

Lets just say it is higher watt density. It still takes less energy to produce same amount of light than a regular incandescent they just concentrate the heat into smaller space. Kind of like a standard water heater element is just a single loop where some the longer life designs have that J design. Same watts but over a longer element and at a lower density per inch.

Compare to a metal halide lamp, doesn't have a filament but temperature inside the arc tube gets even hotter at full output yet is concentrated to even lesser space than an equivalent light output halogen lamp.

 

[kwired]

Wattage of most light bulbs is not a indicator of current draw. While not directly related lamp wattage is usually used to compare relative light output.
Tungsten filaments have a positive temp coefficient, their resistance goes up as they get hotter.

Once they started making more efficient alternatives they started placing equivalent ratings on the packaging. The lamp itself and also maybe smaller print somewhere on the packaging indicated the actual watts along with what the rated input volts should be to attain that output. Back in the 80's and 90's and into early 2000's it became somewhat common (from the right suppliers and some retail stores) to produce 130 volt rated lamps that were longer life, but the thing was if it were a 100 watt @ 130 volts it did put out less light if you only had 118 volts supplied to it, but that did increase lamp life quite a bit over one that was rated 120. There might even been some only rated 115, that 118 input actually would give you shorter life than the rating of the 115 lamp.

With CFL's and now the LED's they do put the equivalent in bigger print on the package as that is what people have become accustomed to for knowing about what the output will be like

 

[kwired]

A FWIW on halogen bulbs unelated to garage door openers
Running on a dimmer runs a halogen lamp cooler, but that leads to deposits on the inside of the quartz envelope and decrease light.

those deposits are vaporized tungsten from the filament. Run it at the design rating and the halogen gas inside the tube helps re deposit them back onto the element. Kind of complicated as lamp life is shortened by lost tungsten but also extended because of lower overall operating temp because of the lower voltage input.

My house is 20 years old, I have recessed lights around the house in the soffits that come on every night, kind of as security lights. They all had 75 watt PAR38 lamps in them initially and run from dusk to dawn every night. I did place dimmer switches on them, different sections have different switches but they all were dimmed to some extent most of the time. 1 They did not necessarily need to be at full brightness most of the time. 2 they would use less energy if dimmed and 3 would likely last longer if dimmed. Most of them have since been replaced with LED equivalents. I believe one side of the house still has the original lamps installed and they have never been changed in 20 years. It is the side where not much activity ever goes on at night and is a part of reason it still is the original lamps. Same lamps were initially used in places inside the house and were replaced many times before going to LED's. Even some the LED replacement lamps have been replaced here and there since they were installed.

 

[ggunn]

Extended or rough service life 120V lamps are often simply 125V versions but they won't appear equal because of different basis used to determine wattage.

A 60W incandescent bulb will not look as bright as a 60W quartz bulb because they have different lumen/watt.

A 60W equivalent LED will have almost nothing in common with a 60W incandescent except maybe the lamp envelope.

Buying a lamp strictly based on its Wattage may have unexpected results.

One thing that is different with LED bulbs is that they are not evacuated and they often use plastic envelopes. I have strings of LED lights over my deck, and a few bulbs have water in them but still work fine.

 

[charlie b]

Here are a couple links.

Genie Universal Garage Door Opener LED Light Bulb GLEDB2-R - The Home Depot

Elevate your garage door openers to a whole new level by installing this Genie Universal Garage Door Opener LED Light Bulb.

www.homedepot.com

Feit Electric 60-Watt Equivalent A19 Non-Dimmable CEC Title20 90 CRI Garage Door Opener E26 Medium LED Light Bulb, Bright White 3000K OM60930CA10KLEDGARBX - The Home Depot

Change the entire look and feel of any room in your home with the use of this durable Feit Electric Equivalent Bright White A Title LED Garage Door Opener Light Bulb.

www.homedepot.com

I bought one from the first link. I just installed it, and it worked properly.

Many thanks to everyone for your responses.