UL listing is "applied" as things leave the factory. Once somethings leaves the factory there is nothing you can do to change a listing. However, you can field modify a device so it no longer meets its listing requirements, or you can misapply it in a manner inconsistent with its listing.Do federal pacific panel and breakers still have a UL listing?Is there a way to find out its current status?
That’s exactly why im asking… thanksUL actually took the extra step of RESCINDING the UL listing of the Stab-lok breakers and panels. So they are indeed no longer UL listed. This is what put them out of business.
There is a company, Connecticut Electric, who makes an aftermarket replacement breaker for FPE Stab-lok panels. It is UL “Classified”, which is slightly different from being “listed”, in that it can only be used in listed panels that it was tested with. CE tested them in MOST of the common FPE panels that were sold before the UL listing was rescinded, but not all, so you have to check (although nobody actually does). There are strong opinions on the inspection community as to the CE versions being no better than the originals though.
The thing is, many insurance companies are now refusing to underwrite homes with FPE panels in them, regardless of the breakers installed. So it’s often a waste of money to try to keep using an existing FPE panel, you are throwing good money after bad.
I think the company actually was split and sold before that happened, a Canadian and US split, the Canadian remained popular in for years, up until recently you could buy StabLok breakers at Homedepot in Canada made by the same company that makes square D. You could until recently have them shipped to your door here in the US (CSA listed). The US parent company is the one that had the bad breakers.This is what put them out of business.
This is true, they also now ask if you have any interior aluminum wiring no matter how old and they ask about knob and tube wiring.The thing is, many insurance companies are now refusing to underwrite homes with FPE panels in them, regardless of the breakers installed. So it’s often a waste of money to try to keep using an existing FPE panel, you are throwing good money after bad.
But that would apply from that point forward. I don't think you can rescind previously listed products.UL actually took the extra step of RESCINDING the UL listing of the Stab-lok breakers and panels.
Insurance companies will not accept anything that is marked Federal Pacific or FPE including fusible switches.But that would apply from that point forward. I don't think you can rescind previously listed products.
So now you have to deal with existing listed panels and breakers from a third party. Are insurance companies accepting this?
Reference for the future attached, for once Home Depot Canada redesigns their website, or blocks Amerikans.
That's not "appears to be" that is a Federal Pacific panel.this is what they wrote. All I see is replacing the panel or since it doesn’t show any signs of danger at this time all you can do is thermo image it to make sure no hot spots are available, proper torquingof all connections and check for loose connections or oxidation. Any thoughts??????
Jesse Arronstein's data suggests, or rather asserts, that even the best of the StabLok bunch still fail to trip at 200% of the rating.The danger is not that the breakers “jam” and it’s not that they used crappy aluminum bus (that was Zinsco). To clear up the misconceptions, I will share what I learned when I had access to internal documents from Reliance at one time, which laid it out in detail.
The problem with the US version of Stab-Lok breakers is that they can fail to trip when they are required to, which is their main function! Unfortunately, you will NOT KNOW THAT IT DOESN’T WORK UNTIL IT IS NEEDED! So people often say “I’ve never had a problem with Stab-Lok and I’ve had them for 50+ years”…, but that just means that fortunately for them, nothing has needed to trip in that expanse of time. Luck is, however, not a valid safety strategy…
