Range Cord Terminations

J

jmellc

Senior Member
Location
Durham, NC
Occupation
Facility Maintenance Tech. Licensed Electrician
Someone sent me this pic of terminations on a Premier brand range. Never heard of the brand before. Looks to me like the neutral is missing from the terminal strip. I never saw a range without a visible neutral wire to center. Friend said he connected neutral from cord to center & pulled the bonding strap as I said do, green to chassis ground. Worked fine. Factory must have neutral terminated internally. I haven’t connected a range in over 5 years now. Has that become common?
 

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There are no connections on the back of that terminal block. Range is obviously straight 240V so no neutral connection needed. The only thing modern ranges need the neutral for is the incandescent light. The electronic controls can be run off of 120V or 240V.
 
curt swartz said:
There are no connections on the back of that terminal block. Range is obviously straight 240V so no neutral connection needed. The only thing modern ranges need the neutral for is the incandescent light. The electronic controls can be run off of 120V or 240V.
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I wondered about that but I didn’t recall ever seeing a range without a neutral.
 
infinity said:
What did the nameplate say about the voltage?
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I didn’t think to ask for a pic of nameplate. I’ll see if he can still send it. Probably not if he's got it in place. Most ranges I ever saw had them on the back. I saw a very few with it in the door frame.
 
Range nameplates can be hidden. Check the lower drawer. May be on the side in the bottom drawer opening and not on the drawer itself.
 
Could also remove the bonding jumper and put the green wire under the green screw. White on the middle terminal that goes nowhere, and red abd black on the end terminals.
 
suemarkp said:
Range nameplates can be hidden. Check the lower drawer. May be on the side in the bottom drawer opening and not on the drawer itself.
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The name plate would include voltage info but not wiring diagram. The wiring diagram is usually right next to the wiring compartment.

Most appliance installers can't follow the picture on how to install a 4-wire cord even though the are staring at it the entire time they are trying to connect the cord.
 
jmellc said:
Friend said he connected neutral from cord to center & pulled the bonding strap as I said do, green to chassis ground
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Ok, that actually would be a better way to do it since the center terminal goes nowhere if you remove the ground strap. Then connect the green to the chassis ground screw (bottom right). That way you have no loose unconnected conductors for somebody who knows nothing to complain about. And the connection block conforms to standard practices.

-Hal
 
I guess they finally figured out how to power the over light off 240.
The cool thing about those newer '240V' ranges is if you have a old 3-wire range circuit with SE cable you dont need to 'upgrade' it to a 4-wire.
 
tortuga said:
I guess they finally figured out how to power the over light off 240.
The cool thing about those newer '240V' ranges is if you have a old 3-wire range circuit with SE cable you dont need to 'upgrade' it to a 4-wire.
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You will if you are installing a 14-50 receptacle. I have also never seen a 6-50 range cord offered at any wholesale supplier or retailer.
 
tortuga said:
View attachment 2580374
They are pretty common here
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No they aren't! You just found a random picture online of a 6-50 replacement cord, probably for a welder.

Please post a link to a big box store or or appliance store.

I install wiring for 1000's of ranges. Very few are straight 240V. Even if they are straight 240V it does not make sense to go back to change the receptacle verses using the 14-50 receptacle and capping the white on the cord. Appliance installers are not going to carry the 6-50 cord on their truck.
 
curt swartz said:
No they aren't! You just found a random picture online of a 6-50 replacement cord, probably for a welder.

Please post a link to a big box store or or appliance store.

I install wiring for 1000's of ranges. Very few are straight 240V. Even if they are straight 240V it does not make sense to go back to change the receptacle verses using the 14-50 receptacle and capping the white on the cord. Appliance installers are not going to carry the 6-50 cord on their truck.
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My SH has them. They always ask me if I want 3-wire or 4-wire.
 
I was not thinking of new construction, rather I was thinking of the classic old house Service Upgrade Range Problem (SURP) that we've had numerous threads on, when a meter is upgraded to a meter-main, existing range is 3-wire SE cable with a bare neutral, existing loadcenter becomes a sub panel (feeder panel if you prefer) and now has a SE cable with the bare 'neutral' originating in the sub panel (a TN-C circuit out of a TN-S panel) .
Having a '240' range instead of a '120/240' range eliminates the issue, other than perhaps a special trip for a cord.
 
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