“Generac” Cable

Sometimes you absolutely need a 90 degree connector, sometimes a straight connector won't work but a 45 degree connector will. 45 connectors don't give you as much trouble passing conductors through them as 90 connectors do.
 
I have seen T-stat wire used as well as individual #14 or 16 awg wire run
Can I pull a 'class-2' brown T-stat cable in the same conduit with a generator feeder?
I thought I had to do some article 725.something and reclassify as a 'class 1' and use 14-THWN or 16 - 18 TFFN to go in same conduit as power?
I have ran into this with those 0-10V dimming wires in offices.
I don't think its up to the manufacturer its more of a NEC class 1 class2 ... thing?
 
I don't think that is an issue. I remember at one time Generac was requiring the control circuit to be in a separate conduit. I think that idea has gone by the wayside.
 
Sometimes you absolutely need a 90 degree connector, sometimes a straight connector won't work but a 45 degree connector will. 45 connectors don't give you as much trouble passing conductors through them as 90 connectors do.

Might try that on my next Kohler. Still might not fit. Boggles my mind why Kohler put the inlet covered by the lid when its open.

Feeding the wires in is a disaster as well, because you need the lid open to access the inside and closed to feed from the outside. Simultaneously 😡😡

Did I mention that Kohler pisses me off? 😂
 
Might try that on my next Kohler. Still might not fit. Boggles my mind why Kohler put the inlet covered by the lid when its open.

Feeding the wires in is a disaster as well, because you need the lid open to access the inside and closed to feed from the outside. Simultaneously 😡😡

Did I mention that Kohler pisses me off? 😂
I only hooked up one of those and it was somewhat recently, I remember having that same issue.
 
The start up sheet I have to sign and turn in to Kohler asks if it is separate.
The only control on the Kohler I hooked up more recently was a single pair shielded cable between transfer switch and the generator controller. There was a 15 amp 120 volt circuit run with the generator output conductors for battery charger and any other accessories that may be included with the breaker for this as a field add on feature within the transfer switch.
 
The only control on the Kohler I hooked up more recently was a single pair shielded cable between transfer switch and the generator controller. There was a 15 amp 120 volt circuit run with the generator output conductors for battery charger and any other accessories that may be included with the breaker for this as a field add on feature within the transfer switch.
The last two I done had the option of the shielded cable, or the two wire start. Since I was not doing load shedding, I chose the two wire start.
 
Can I pull a 'class-2' brown T-stat cable in the same conduit with a generator feeder?
I thought I had to do some article 725.something and reclassify as a 'class 1' and use 14-THWN or 16 - 18 TFFN to go in same conduit as power?
I have ran into this with those 0-10V dimming wires in offices.
I don't think its up to the manufacturer its more of a NEC class 1 class2 ... thing?

It must have insulation rated for the highest voltage available, so if your t-stat wire is 300V rated (highly unlikely), then you can.

We used tray cable once years ago for the control and such for a Generac, and it was a pretty long run. Turns out there was too much interference, so we had ran the DC in a separate cable, and then spliced it with the tray cable where it popped outside where we had a pull box anyways. It works to mix them for short runs, but it didn't work for us on a ~100' run.
 
It must have insulation rated for the highest voltage available, so if your t-stat wire is 300V rated (highly unlikely), then you can.

We used tray cable once years ago for the control and such for a Generac, and it was a pretty long run. Turns out there was too much interference, so we had ran the DC in a separate cable, and then spliced it with the tray cable where it popped outside where we had a pull box anyways. It works to mix them for short runs, but it didn't work for us on a ~100' run.

I've seen Kohler, using their version of RS485, the hillbilly installer used loose THHNs mixed with all the power wires in one big conduit and the thing still worked.

Not saying it is a good idea, but it seems pretty robust to be able to do that.
 
The last two I done had the option of the shielded cable, or the two wire start. Since I was not doing load shedding, I chose the two wire start.
I might not paid enough attention and had that option as well. Not too big of deal though, Transfer switch was right next to the generator on that one.
 
It must have insulation rated for the highest voltage available, so if your t-stat wire is 300V rated (highly unlikely), then you can.
Yeah I see it done with generators and also HVAC.
There is a huge local HVAC company working on a job that that had all kinds of rules on fire stop for penetrations, so their installer pulled the brown t-stat cable in a 240V conduit with the compressor feed, saved having two runs thru fire stop, and the roof penetration. The inspector blew a gasket, also did not help that the t-stat cable just exits thru a open LB cover in a 'plenum' ceiling.. I cant quote the code on it but I know there are lots of rules to follow if its done.
 
so their installer pulled the brown t-stat cable in a 240V conduit with the compressor feed, saved having two runs thru fire stop, and the roof penetration. The inspector blew a gasket, also did not help that the t-stat cable just exits thru a open LB cover in a 'plenum' ceiling.. I cant quote the code on it but I know there are lots of rules to follow if its done.
You first have to reclassify the class 2 control circuit as class 1 control circuit and install following all the rules for a class 1 circuit which means you can not use CL2 cable, or directly use the CL2 thermostat or other CL2 components as the entire control circuit becomes a class 1 circuit and not just random portions you wish to be class 1.

You can use transformers, relays, etc for isolation and convert back to a CL2 circuit wherever you might want to change back to CL2, but that gets a little more involved/complex if more than just a simple two wire control circuit that you are converting.
 
Top