1/2” EMT bender

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If you follow the instructions that are given above you cannot go wrong. I marked in red the measurement- 8" bend so 8-5 = 3". The red mark on the conduit is 3" from the end of the conduit. The red mark on the bender is the arrow. Line them up and, of course, pull up the short end and you will have an 8" bend.

That is 8" from the floor to the top of the bend


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TwoBlocked said:
Rather than make a mistake when subtracting or marking the stub length and then another mark for the deduct, what I do is put the amount of deduct shown on the tape measure on the end of the conduit (5" for 1/2" bender, meaning the end of the tape sticks 5" past the end of the conduit) and then mark the desired stub length shown on the tape measure (say 11") on the conduit. This results in placing the bend mark 6" from the end of the conduit directly.
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I've done the same since day one in the trade. I call it burning five inches which is a holdover from my carpenter days when we would burn an inch to get a more accurate measurement for trim pieces.
 
ActionDave said:
I've done the same since day one in the trade. I call it burning five inches which is a holdover from my carpenter days when we would burn an inch to get a more accurate measurement for trim pieces.
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We called it "holding" or 'cutting" and inch. When I QC'd wall framing.
 
OK, not trying to be rude to the OP but, does anyone get the feeling they're being trolled.

As pointed out by the respondents in this thread it's simple and there are many places online that will show step by step bending. If nothing else search for Benfield Bending
 
roger said:
OK, not trying to be rude to the OP but, does anyone get the feeling they're being trolled.

As pointed out by the respondents in this thread it's simple and there are many places online that will show step by step bending. If nothing else search for Benfield Bending
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If he's a troll he's been at it awhile. A senior member with 522 posts.
 
I'm thinking its semantics or a misunderstanding. Maybe he is saying "take up" and meaning "shrink" or something. If he reads some of the great explanations, he'll surely figure it out.
 
infinity said:
So were all on the same page what is your definition of take up? Can you explain exactly how you would make a 10" elbow with this bender?
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If I wanted a 15 inch 90 degree stub up bend I would mark 15” on EMT then subtract 5 inches from that line and make a new mark away from first mark if bending toward smaller end of EMT

OR if bending toward longer side of EMT add 5” from first mark and bend so that after bend TAKE UP or shrink in distance from end to bend should be 15” from 90 degree bend to EMT END TIP

ARROW on bender lines up with marks made
 
hbiss said:
Exactly.

And "the star foretells where the back of the bend will lie" if you are going the other way.

-Hal
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But this bender is taking up less or causing less shrinkage than is stated on shoe. A book I have said some benders can take up more or less than another. So it’s necessary to make test bends

However why label falsely?
 
Jpflex said:
But this bender is taking up less or causing less shrinkage than is stated on shoe. A book I have said some benders can take up more or less than another. So it’s necessary to make test bends

However why label falsely?
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Did you do test bends as I provided?
I think you may not understand fully how the hand bender works.

You do not add 5. You put the star on the number you want when bending that direction.

We refer to that as a back bend(star).
The subtract five is refered to as a stub bend(arrow).
It is the way the shoe is oriented ( hook end) to the measured end of the pipe.
 
Jpflex said:
This hand bender says 5’ take up for 90 degree bends as well as ugly book. However when you add 5 inches to any mark and bend at this point, the bend ends at 2 inches beyond desired distance before 5” mark

The bend is alway 3” take up and the stub arrow is used at marks. A level confirms 90 degree stub up so what could be the issue?

Do we use notch teardrop or star instead of arrow?
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Try the KISS method (Keep it simple stupid) forget what you thought you already read and understood.

Lay your conduit on the floor. Say you want a 16 3/8" stub up 90° on one end of the conduit. On the end of the conduit where you need the 16 3/8" stub up, take your tape and extend it out about 24" and lock it there. Place it on the floor next to the conduit (parallel). Overhang exactly 5" of the tape past the end of the conduit, (the 5" mark on your tape exactly equal with the end of the conduit end) where you need the stub measurement. Mark your conduit at the 16 3/8" spot on your tape, this will help you avoid math errors when dealing with fractions in your head, to begin with. When you make your mark, use a fine line marker or a pencil to maintain accuracy, and keep your mark at exactly 90° (perpendicular) to the center line of the conduit.

Now take your bender and place it on the conduit with the hook end (arrow end) facing the end that you measured from. Line up your mark exactly with the center of the arrow head. Place the conduit and the bender on the floor for support. Use some foot pressure on the backside of the bender head, to force the pipe to the floor during bending pressure. Pull up on the handle, while holding the conduit to the floor with your foot pressure. Use a short length of channel strut against the backside of the conduit to measure the exact length of your stub up. It will also show you if the conduit is over or under bent, an adjustable head carpenter square can be used against the strut to check the accuracy of your bent angle for adjustment. If you carefully followed the measuring, layout, marking and bending instructions your stub up should be exactly 16 3/8". There should only be very minor variations from one batch of pipe to another, due to manufacturing tolerances, not because the take up on your bender is marked wrong. Try the KISS method and then report back if it worked for you or not.

In answer to your question, the problem is operator error in understanding the directions and terms. Practice makes perfect. Slow down and pay close attention to accuracy along the way and you will understand better and stop wasting conduit. but realize that it takes some mistakes to figure out the error of your ways


Once you get the arrow head layout figured out, then we can move on to explaining using the star mark for back to back bends. Save your practice sticks for the next lesson.

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lordofthisworld said:
lol
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You can think whatever you want but I did not have the privilege of having a journeyman show me how to do everything. It is harder to learn 1600 pages of code, theory, interpreting code when working alone self taught.

I followed ugly conduit bending guide step by step and this is why I post.
 
Jpflex said:
You can think whatever you want but I did not have the privilege of having a journeyman show me how to do everything. It is harder to learn 1600 pages of code, theory, interpreting code when working alone self taught.

I followed ugly conduit bending guide step by step and this is why I post.
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Tulsa Electrician said:
See if these help.

Duplicate and share your answers.

First bend:

Mark 1.5 and 6

Place arrow @ 1.5 and bend 90.
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If you would then we'd know better how to advise you.
 
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