10/2 NM for general purpose receptacles

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ActionDave said:
No, no, and no. And if that isn't clear enough, No.

You don't ever use a crimp on connector on solid wire that way.
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While I agree, what's the difference between using those and Buchannon crimps on the EGCs? Rated use? That the EGCs are twisted together and the Buchannon crimps are largely an added safety measure rather than the primary connection?
 
ramsy said:
Crimp two #10's to this:
View attachment 18275

Crimp 3+ #10's to this"
View attachment 18276
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ActionDave said:
No, no, and no. And if that isn't clear enough, No.

You don't ever use a crimp on connector on solid wire that way.
Click to expand...

JFletcher said:
While I agree, what's the difference between using those and Buchannon crimps on the EGCs? Rated use? That the EGCs are twisted together and the Buchannon crimps are largely an added safety measure rather than the primary connection?
Click to expand...

The difference is in the products- buch's are copper and are evenly compressed from 4 sides when you use the c24. The connectors pictured are steel (rusting is more likely), not crimped the same (imo could be more prone to failure)- also those pictured may/may not accept more than one conductor.....

Actually imo, a bare buch on the egcs and buch with cap or tape on the cccs are a good idea here- the op could use those for mating the solid 10 and a stranded 12 tail. Yes, I am aware that you could use a wire nut, but the buchs (esp w/tape) would take up a little less room than a red or tan twister.....
 
JFletcher said:
While I agree, what's the difference between using those and Buchannon crimps on the EGCs? Rated use? That the EGCs are twisted together and the Buchannon crimps are largely an added safety measure rather than the primary connection?
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Are those connectors intended for more then a single conductor? The Buchannon items mentioned are.
 
kwired said:
Are those connectors intended for more then a single conductor? The Buchannon items mentioned are.
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Dunno, probably for one stranded only given ActionDave's comment. No way Id ever go that route when wagos to #12 tails would take a lot less time to install.

user100, buch crimps are good but approx 0.001% of the ones Ive seen installed were done with the proper crimper.
 
Normally it's better to just stay away from projects started by others unless you can get really good money to complete the project.
 
JFletcher said:
While I agree, what's the difference between using those and Buchannon crimps on the EGCs? Rated use? That the EGCs are twisted together and the Buchannon crimps are largely an added safety measure rather than the primary connection?
Click to expand...
Along with what user100 said, the sta kon connectors will have a split in the barrel that makes them unsuitable for crimping on solid wire.
 
If you want listed .. Thomas&Betts Sta-Kon catalog shows the listing:
http://www-public.tnb.com/pub/en/node/1739

There are several catalogs in the pull-down list ~ 80MB in size
"Sta-Kon Wire Insulation & Termination" Catalog, bottom Pg. G-2

"Note: Listed for solid wire up to #10 AWG, terminals only"

A special crimper tool is required - Sta-Kon catalog, Pg. G-4

"Can be installed with crimping tools having a single
indentor or double indentor (recommended for solid wire)"

ETCO also makes assembly-line crimps listed for solid wire
https://www.etco.com/crimp-on-solid-wire-eliminates-soldering-and-welding/
 
user 100 said:
As long the recs are approved for #10- you're good- device listing is the mitigating factor here. Going to have to get 20a spec grades for this if connecting the 10 directly to the device.
It is going to be a pain when tucking in if you do it that way with that 10 solid..........so you might want to go ahead and push the stiff stuff to the back of the box the best you can and then pigtail stranded 12 out to the device- it will be much easier come push in time. And if you do the pigtail idea, you can use the cheaper recs that only go up to 12....
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You can also use fork terminals for #10 wire (yellow) for #8 screw
hope the box is deep enough.

Electrician don't do stupid, they fix what stupid do.
 
jgt480v said:
You can also use fork terminals for #10 wire (yellow) for #8 screw
hope the box is deep enough.

Electrician don't do stupid, they fix what stupid do.
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I don't work with stranded much, and I'm not intending to trash any plan with the fork connectors but if I was to do what I suggested w/ the stranded tails, I wouldn't even waste time with any fork connections unless I was forced to- I'd just wrap the stranded around the screws/get recs w/ comp plts and get on w/ life.:D
 
ActionDave said:
Fork#8.jpg
No, no, and no. And if that isn't clear enough, No.

You don't ever use a crimp on connector on solid wire that way.
Click to expand...

Master Dave, anything not listed for the purpose can always be AHJ approved in the field.

Just because you've never seen it, doesn't mean the combination inspector will fail it.

If your worried about corrosion cover it with grease after inspector passes it. Like Fiona does aluminum alloy service equipment in marine environments.
 
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I wouldn't touch that job with a 29 1/2 foot pole.


1) It will be a total PITA to connect the 10AWG to devices.

2) Chances are, when trying to stuff the devices into the box, they will have to be forced in. I mean really forced in.

3) When using that much force, it is likely the connections will work loose and will have to be re-tightened.

4) If the loose connection goes unnoticed at installation, it will likely fail or burn at some point in the future.

5) The above will generate call back after call back. Even if you fix everything for free, you will get blamed for the failures, not the guy that insisted on the 10AWG.
 
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