10 AWG and 40A square D breaker

10 AWG and 40A square D breaker

  • Ignore the restriction and put the 10 on the breaker

    Votes: 10 40.0%
  • Use a wire nut to splice and 8 onto the 10 in the panel

    Votes: 6 24.0%
  • Some other splice method for an 8 (explain what)

    Votes: 2 8.0%
  • Some other method (explain it)

    Votes: 7 28.0%

  • Total voters
    25
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I would think that most of us (without looking) would assume that a #10 would fit tightly in a 40 amp CB.
 
Dennis Alwon said:
I just went down the basement and pulled out a dp 40 GE and an old Sq. D DP 40. The GE does not mention wire size but the SQ. D does )#8-4. I needed reading glass as well as a magnifier to read the darn thing.

Anyway I put a 14 wire under the sq.D 40 and I gotta say there is no way in the world that connection would come loose. I whirled the breaker around by the wire and it was still "snug as a bug in a rug". So why is it listed for #8-4???

I guess I would have no problem defying that listing. Sorry-- kill me-- go ahead.


Thanks alot Dennis !!! :D ,, i end do the same thing what you did i try the same way took a old QO 240 breaker and do the same way as you desecrbing but kinda odd it really clamp the #10 and i try that again with #14 also still stick on good.

but IMO for proper way i will either wirenutted a short pigtail or poloris it

Merci , Marc
 
You could always use a Cutler-Hammer CHQ or CL type of "classified" breaker in those Square D panels. Me thinx their lugs will accept a #10 in the 35-60 Amp breakers .... :grin:
 
kbsparky said:
You could always use a Cutler-Hammer CHQ or CL type of "classified" breaker in those Square D panels. Me thinx their lugs will accept a #10 in the 35-60 Amp breakers .... :grin:

...on a QO?
 
Thanks for the replies. I expected this to not be well known, but a little surprised so many would ignore the listing. An extreme example, but put a 14AWG in the largest lug you know about and torque to the proper value. I would guess the wire would be flattened. Just because it holds doesn't make it right. In this particular case though, it might just be square D chose not to test smaller than an 8.

I plan to splice an 8, but not sure I would trust a wire nut. A split bolt would be cheaper than a polaris, but I'll probably use the polaris anyway. I stumbed on an old thread that suggested there are split bolt 'covers' so they don't have to be taped. Anyone heard of that and who makes it? I haven't been able to find such a thing.

Oh, and I was looking at QO, but I looked an homeline is the same. And they are HACR rated.
 
Any breaker that meets UL 489 is now HACR , stated on the breaker or not



[SIZE=-2][PDF][/SIZE]
Data Bulletin

[SIZE=-1]File Format: PDF/Adobe Acrobat - View as HTML
UL had Listed these circuit breakers as HACR Type ... to redefine the test parameters for UL Listed HACR Type circuit breakers. ...
ecatalog.squared.com/pubs/Circuit%20Protection/Molded%20Case%20Circuit%20Breakers/0600DB0102.pdf - Similar pages[/SIZE]
 
breaker

breaker

talk about ammo for the ole charge "if an inspector wants to turn a job down, he can find reason"
I'd hate to guess how many times this violation has slipped by me (and to be honest, will continue to... go ahead, hit me!)
 
I picked the fourth option - simply run #8 the whole way to the condenser. :D

If the run is short, the price difference is inexpensive - if it's long, then voltage drop will begin to become an issue. Either way, the 8's the easy way to go. ;)
 
augie47 said:
talk about ammo for the ole charge "if an inspector wants to turn a job down, he can find reason"
I'd hate to guess how many times this violation has slipped by me (and to be honest, will continue to... go ahead, hit me!)

Why would anyone want to hit an inspector that uses some common sense?
 
georgestolz said:
I picked the fourth option - simply run #8 the whole way to the condenser. :D

If the run is short, the price difference is inexpensive - if it's long, then voltage drop will begin to become an issue. Either way, the 8's the easy way to go. ;)

Same solution, different reason.

A) Often don't know exact size of unit, so #8 good for up to 50 amps, very rare to see one larger (for me anyway)

B) Company I work for wants wire to match breaker, not min. cir. ampacity. :-?
 
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