14/2 and 18/2

[Jraef]

A residential garage ceiling is not fire rated.

It is if there is a bedroom above it.

 

[Dennis Alwon]

I have never installed a box for the garage control wires. I would staple it right along side of the 120V box- perhaps a 1/2" away and then shoot down to the unit via the bracket for the motor

 

[Amps]

A residential garage ceiling is not fire rated.

If habitable space above, they have 2 hour rating. Double 5/8" sheetrock. At least in this area.

 

[Amps]

There's 18/2 FPLR cable. Fire rated, 300v, 105C.

 

[texie]

It is if there is a bedroom above it.

Perhaps my fire rating comment was a little snarky. My point is that the IRC requirements for garage fire issues are not rated assemblies as in commercial. The IRC just has some basic requirements to slow down a garage fire. One example is as you mention, if there is a habitable room above you need 5/8 sheet rock on the ceiling but it says nothing about outlet penetrations and the like as you would have in a rated assembly. Other wise in most cases the garage can use 1/2 sheet rock.
This is similar to IRC draft blocking in homes. There is no rating to it, just guidance on what is required. Same with draft blocking cable penetrations, you can just use regular foam.

 

[petersonra]

I have always done this. Always passed the electrical inspection. i see many other new houses like this. The city building inspector does not think it is allowed. Thanks

It is allowed but you have to follow the rules about such things.

take a look at 725.126. read carefully what it actually says and not what someone told you it says, or what you think it says.

 

[865resi]

It is allowed but you have to follow the rules about such things.

take a look at 725.126. read carefully what it actually says and not what someone told you it says, or what you think it says.

725.126 is not in my 2011 or 2017. I assume you meant 725.136 (which is in both). I have a single gang box, so I cannot use a barrier 725.136(B). But maybe you are referring to 725.136(D) 2 b. I do not know if that refers to the 18/2 from pushbutton to opener.
Like I say every EI has passed this, at least a dozen, over the last 20 years. Some very strict, some not. Thanks.

 

[Rick 0920]

I just stub it down a couple inches away. I don't want to have opener wire anywhere need the cover. Sometimes I go to the opposite side of the truss. Drywall hangers just poke out and some firecaulk it.

I agree. I've always stubbed a few inches from the box. The LV 18-2 does not need to be in a box per the NEC.

 

[petersonra]

725.126 is not in my 2011 or 2017. I assume you meant 725.136 (which is in both). I have a single gang box, so I cannot use a barrier 725.136(B). But maybe you are referring to 725.136(D) 2 b. I do not know if that refers to the 18/2 from pushbutton to opener.
Like I say every EI has passed this, at least a dozen, over the last 20 years. Some very strict, some not. Thanks.

Sorry. You are right. I fat fingered it. Should be 725.136.

I think an outlet box box could use smurf tubing for instance, as a barrier between the power wiring and the class 2 wiring.

However, as a practical matter, it would probably be easier not to do it that way.

 

[BayElectric]

725.136(D) Associated system within enclosures allows you to use same enclosure with only separation of 0.25" between the class 1, and class 2 conductors.