14-50R one is $12 the other is $40 what is the difference

MD Automation said:
Be aware, the cover plate circle is bigger for the 14-50R-B0. For a 4 & 11 square box, the RACO part# is 888 for a raised surface mount cover. My supply house does not stock this part, but had one next day from the warehouse. This cover is not commonly used.
Click to expand...
Yeah, I found that out on the first EV rated one I installed for a Porsche.
 
Fred B said:
Just saw on Big orange web site 2 different Leviton 14-50R with huge difference in price. One is marked with a little picture of a car on it and indicating for EV charging for $40, the other one just indicates for range hookup and is $12. Is there any real substantive difference between the two to justify the price? Or is it $28 for the little picture of the car?
Click to expand...
They are a substantially heavier receptacle.
 
pipe_bender said:
Your more of an expert than me, all I know is a
A)14-50 is the wrong outlet
and
B) All the issues I have seen were AL wire and a DIY in nature, including the threads on here
and
C) using several different search features for this and other forums I cant find one licensed electrician that reported a issue with a regular $8 receptacle they installed themselves on #6 copper.

As you probably know the chemicals that hot electrical plastic off-gas's are highly corrosive chemicals like halogen acids.
When I got to see someone smarter than me (a forensic investigator) examine the aftermath of a small electrical fire due to AL on a receptacle they said halogen acids, along with other volatile compounds, can cause severe corrosion and pitting damage to aluminum wire and once that starts you get thermal run away pretty fast.
Using a grease compound such as noalox or DE-OX protects the AL from corrosion, many electricians dont use the grease at all.
And the older aluminum alloy is more common than you think, I do service work, people like to re-use an existing circuit, like converting a old dryer plug to a EV charger plug etc. That may be that old alloy aluminum.
Click to expand...
If a 14-50 is the “wrong outlet” (the device is actually a receptacle, not an outlet), what is one supposed to do when they purchase a UL-listed EVSE that comes with a factory-installed 14-50P?

I’ve seen multiple reports of Leviton receptacles melting that were installed by licensed electricians using copper wire. The set screws directly contacting the wire can result in poor connections, especially with stranded wire.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_0437.jpeg
    IMG_0437.jpeg
    776.3 KB · Views: 2
retirede said:
If a 14-50 is the “wrong outlet” (the device is actually a receptacle, not an outlet), what is one supposed to do when they purchase a UL-listed EVSE that comes with a factory-installed 14-50P?

I’ve seen multiple reports of Leviton receptacles melting that were installed by licensed electricians using copper wire. The set screws directly contacting the wire can result in poor connections, especially with stranded wire.
Click to expand...
Or they buy one of those Temu receptacles! I had a customer buy one for his RV. Broke before I could get it back in the box.
 
retirede said:
If a 14-50 is the “wrong outlet” (the device is actually a receptacle, not an outlet), what is one supposed to do when they purchase a UL-listed EVSE that comes with a factory-installed 14-50P?
Click to expand...
Same thing I do when someone buys the wrong parts (happens too often), a non LED dimmer for a led fixture, or wants to provide old non TR receptacles for replacements in a dwelling, non ul liste pool lights...
I dont use them.
Just because some homeowner gets the wrong thing does not make it right.

Customers order the wrong stuff all the time, its a 240V device, not a 120/240 device.
Do the right thing and tell people to install a 6-50 receptacle,
EV's are still new enough that many EC's are not even aware of this.

If I bought the wrong tires for my truck and ask the tire shop to put them on they would laugh at me.
in all seriousness people typically consult with me (or my boss) before they buy a EVSE so its a non-issue.

14-50's are causing in my opinion unsafe installations, people are doing all kinds of stupid things like wiring them to 3-wire SE cable. 14-50 with a floating neutral (which code allows) are unsafe.
or I have seen all kinds of hacks like jumping the neutral and ground pins (not code allowed).
For some EVSE's I remove them cord and throw it away and hard wire.
I also have removed cords and hard wires dishwashers, disposals.. if that violates UL sue me.
And then there is the whole "but but an EV owner is going to let me plug my RV to their EV outlet argument",
no mom is not going to let grandpa take her parking spot, she needs to charge her car to go to work tomorrow put an RV outlet over where the RV parks and a EV receptacle at the EV spot if you can't hard wire it.
 
I wouldn't want one of those things charging in my garage overnight, especially in a place where I sleep. If I had one I'd charge it outside on a hard wired charger. I think the only time it would be inside the garage is when I had to work on it.

At this point in my life I'll probably never own one. Hell everything I own right now qualifies for antique registration
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top