15 Amp GFCI feeding 20 amp outlets on 20 amp circuit

LarryFine said:
For a given grade of receptacle, the slot shape is the only difference. The conductive parts of both ratings are identical; it's less expensive to manufacture that way.

Also, as far as I remember, every15a GFCI receptacle I have ever seen was rated for use on 15a or 20a circuits and rated for 20a feed-through.

I have always believed that the 20a configuration was an indication that the circuit was 20a, but above statements say that this is not necessarily correct.

Note that the contacts below each have three points of contact with either vertical or horizontal blades, so multiple configurations are available using the same parts: 15a at 125v, 20a at 125v, 15a at 250v, 20a at 250v, and combination duplexes, just by using different faces.

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So I am going to agree with Larry for the most part.
 
Sberry said:
I was thinking 20 A recepts needed 20 but maybe that is to single outlet?
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A single receptacle can have a larger ampacity rating than the indiviual branch circuit supplying it. That's why we use 50 amp single receptacles for ranges on 40 amp circuits.
 
Its not an argument its a question.
There is a lot of mis understanding of this in some respect. There is soome common opinion that anything has a 20 end needs a 20 circuit when that may not be so,,, it may be simple rejection used on any 120 to keep it off the circuits that have 15 outlets.
 
Sberry said:
Is it a single if it is a duplex and I believe a single 20 is required to be 20???
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No a 20 amp duplex receptacle is permitted on a 15 amp circuit. Here's the 2023 NEC where they added the bold:


210.21B(3)
Where connected to a branch circuit supplying two or more receptacles or outlets, receptacle ratings shall not be less than the values listed in Table 210.21(B)(3)
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Hello,

I appreciate everyone’s responses. I firmly believe the incomplete communication this example presents—that there is no such thing as a 15A duplex receptacle, just a 15A faceplate—could be improved upon.

I cannot think of an appliance that uses an actual 20A plug, and I would imagine the vast majority of non-hardwired commercial applications may be similar.

Why not sell all ‘residential’ receptacles with both faceplates? I recently saw a receptacle that came with both beige and white faceplates.

Why not simply require (residential) 12 ga for outlets, 14 ga for switches, and prohibit tapping into a switch for continuous power to an outlet?

Why not simply call ‘15A’ outlets (duplex receptacles) 15-20A receptacles (with 15A faceplates) and vice versa?

So my question remains: Is powering four 20A outlets on a 20A circuit with a 15A GFCI a best practice?

Thank you
 
thomasg88 said:
Why not sell all ‘residential’ receptacles with both faceplates? I recently saw a receptacle that came with both beige and white faceplates.

Why not simply require (residential) 12 ga for outlets, 14 ga for switches, and prohibit tapping into a switch for continuous power to an outlet?

Why not simply call ‘15A’ outlets (duplex receptacles) 15-20A receptacles (with 15A faceplates) and vice versa?
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Why not don't worry about fixing things that are not broke?:devilish:
 
thomasg88 said:
Why not sell all ‘residential’ receptacles with both faceplates? I recently saw a receptacle that came with both beige and white faceplates.
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It's not the face plate, it's the face of the receptacle. The plate is just the cover. The face of the receptacle is not replaceable.
 
Jraef said:
I might be wrong on the year, but I believe that the change came about in the 2001 edition of UL498, which is what covers plugs and receptacles. They changed it to require that 15A duplex outlets are tested and listed for 20A pass-through, meaning the internal parts are designed for handling 20A passing through them without causing temperature rise in excess of the design standard.

So although a manufacturer MAY HAVE built to this standard prior to it going into effect, if an outlet is more than 25 years old, I would not count on that being the case unless it specifically says so on it. Also, UL498 was changed in 1996 to not allow back-stab connections for anything larger than 14ga wire, so there would have been no point in having a 20A pass-through rating on those outlets, which kind of proves that the change took place AFTER 1996.
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I can't speak specifically to any edition of UL498 -- but I can tell you for a fact that I was personally testing 15A receptacles to 20A standards FOR UL, in their facility, back in 1977. It's nothing "new." Likewise, limitations on back-stab connections existed even then, with the access holes deliberately sized to prevent larger wires from being inserted.
As for the OP's question about protecting a 20A circuit with a 15A GFCI, of course you can! First, because code specifically allows 15A devices on a 20A circuit (BTW, have you ever looked at the amp ratings of light switches? You might be surprised!). Likewise, GFCI's operate on measuring minor differences - milliamps - in current flow; the overall load isn't a factor in their operation. The only factor would be the current-interrupting capacity, and (as mentioned already), the device is tested to 20A standards.
 
I like the info in that post. We hear constantly about cheap receps and I was anal when I started then tried them. I have used 100s... own hundreds now for decades and cant tell the difference. I think its great, painless and not tempted to use something old when a new is 60 cents.
 
I have used hundreds of them. Its my actual experience . Its not pure speculation. I have a fairly good pool and own it for a long time and have used them in ruff service. Leviton were 6$ a box at Menards a week ago. I used 1 today. Its going to see 65 watt load for a shop light.
 
Sberry said:
I have used hundreds of them. Its my actual experience . Its not pure speculation. I have a fairly good pool and own it for a long time and have used them in ruff service. Leviton were 6$ a box at Menards a week ago. I used 1 today. Its going to see 65 watt load for a shop light.
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You do as you like...cheap junk has never been used on any on my jobs, even at home. You do get what you pay for. There are physical differences between the 60 cent one and a $3 one
 
I’ve
Sberry said:
I have used hundreds of them. It’s my actual experience . It’s not pure speculation. I have a fairly good pool and own it for a long time and have used them in ruff service. Leviton were 6$ a box at Menards a week ago. I used 1 today. It’s going to see 65 watt load for a shop light.
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I’ve never seen a Leviton duplex receptacle sold at a Menards.
Curious where you’re located.
 
I will have to look,,, it might have been LeGrand. I shop a couple places. I was shopping last couple weeks. Spent a grand on misc hardware and bought a dozen gfci, some boxes, roll of wire, dryer cord/recepts and about 20 shop lights. I was down on staples. Used some gfci last week and down to a couple then the psycology of being short kicks in. I added about 8 lights to paint. Used to be adding 500, even 1000 watts didnt put a dent in it but with modern fixures it really makes it zing.
I did a bunch of work in a dingy basement last week and it looks the same before they spent 2 or 3 large and my new secret is a shop light. I put one right on the 3 way in place of a busticated fixture and even one unit makes it pop.
 
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