200-amps for 5,000 sq ft house?

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You can, but we aren't supposed to plan with the idea of getting as close to overload as possible
No. But if all the units listed were on at full rating simultaneously, the current would still under 200A.
The point about diversity, as I understand it, is that you don't assume that everything is going at full chat at the same time.
 
No. But if all the units listed were on at full rating simultaneously, the current would still under 200A.
The point about diversity, as I understand it, is that you don't assume that everything is going at full chat at the same time.

Even if everything is ON all at the same time each cycles OFF at different rates. So the main 200A ocpd may see close to and even highers than its rating but it will take some time for the breaker to trip. If you have non sustained load the 200A is O.K. for a 5000 sqft house that has most gas appliances.
 
No. But if all the units listed were on at full rating simultaneously, the current would still under 200A.
The point about diversity, as I understand it, is that you don't assume that everything is going at full chat at the same time.
I get that, but I was also only guessing on what to add to the 110 amps for pool and cooking.

110 amps before you add any of the typical all day everyday load of a 5000 square foot house.

maybe you're okay with leaving yourself 90 amps to live on, but if I was paying for a 5000 square foot house to be built, I better have more than that at my disposal
 
I get that, but I was also only guessing on what to add to the 110 amps for pool and cooking.

110 amps before you add any of the typical all day everyday load of a 5000 square foot house.

maybe you're okay with leaving yourself 90 amps to live on, but if I was paying for a 5000 square foot house to be built, I better have more than that at my disposal

The cooker must be electric if it can draw 50A. Set the temperature and the hob or oven will cycle on and off to maintain that temperature. And you cook for meals so it isn't a permanent load anyway.
The 60A for the pool is likely mostly for heating. Would that be permanently on or cycle?

So I don't think you can reasonably assume a fixed 110A load with only 90A spare capacity.
 
The cooker must be electric if it can draw 50A. Set the temperature and the hob or oven will cycle on and off to maintain that temperature. And you cook for meals so it isn't a permanent load anyway.
The 60A for the pool is likely mostly for heating. Would that be permanently on or cycle?

So I don't think you can reasonably assume a fixed 110A load with only 90A spare capacity.
it doesn't have to be fixed load in order to be reasonably considered continuous.
 
I don't know what could possibly be a 60 amp. Load for a pool. Heaters would be a guess but those would cost a fortune to operate.
I agree, and asked if that includes heat. He said gas heat.

But I would also guess that people who live in a 5000 square foot house on a gated property might not care a whole lot about bills. He said gated entry
 
It was stated that the pool heater was gas. The only way it would need 60A is if it also has a chiller.


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So what is the 60A used for if not heating?

it's not my house, nor my job, so I don't know. I'm only going by what he said

Maybe there are three olympic sized pools. maybe there are motorized lifts for handicapped people to get in and out of the pool. maybe it's a pool Cabana with motorized roof.

all I do know is when a guy says he's about to do a load calculation, and the pool is 60 amps, I take it at face value. He probably has some kind of specs
 
it's not my house, nor my job, so I don't know. I'm only going by what he said

Maybe there are three olympic sized pools. maybe there are motorized lifts for handicapped people to get in and out of the pool. maybe it's a pool Cabana with motorized roof.

all I do know is when a guy says he's about to do a load calculation, and the pool is 60 amps, I take it at face value. He probably has some kind of specs
Then don't you also have to take the 200A at face value?
 
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