Then maybe the 200A is OK?Yes he can. That is what the load calculation will do.
Then maybe the 200A is OK?Yes he can. That is what the load calculation will do.
Most likely more than adequate.Then maybe the 200A is OK?
Can't you apply a diversity factor?
No. But if all the units listed were on at full rating simultaneously, the current would still under 200A.You can, but we aren't supposed to plan with the idea of getting as close to overload as possible
NEC calculations are so conservative that home will never see 185 amps in operation.You can, but we aren't supposed to plan with the idea of getting as close to overload as possible
No. But if all the units listed were on at full rating simultaneously, the current would still under 200A.
The point about diversity, as I understand it, is that you don't assume that everything is going at full chat at the same time.
I get that, but I was also only guessing on what to add to the 110 amps for pool and cooking.No. But if all the units listed were on at full rating simultaneously, the current would still under 200A.
The point about diversity, as I understand it, is that you don't assume that everything is going at full chat at the same time.
I get that, but I was also only guessing on what to add to the 110 amps for pool and cooking.
110 amps before you add any of the typical all day everyday load of a 5000 square foot house.
maybe you're okay with leaving yourself 90 amps to live on, but if I was paying for a 5000 square foot house to be built, I better have more than that at my disposal
it doesn't have to be fixed load in order to be reasonably considered continuous.The cooker must be electric if it can draw 50A. Set the temperature and the hob or oven will cycle on and off to maintain that temperature. And you cook for meals so it isn't a permanent load anyway.
The 60A for the pool is likely mostly for heating. Would that be permanently on or cycle?
So I don't think you can reasonably assume a fixed 110A load with only 90A spare capacity.
I agree, and asked if that includes heat. He said gas heat.I don't know what could possibly be a 60 amp. Load for a pool. Heaters would be a guess but those would cost a fortune to operate.
So what is the 60A used for if not heating?I agree, and asked if that includes heat. He said gas heat.
NEC calculations are so conservative that home will never see 185 amps in operation.
So what is the 60A used for if not heating?
Then don't you also have to take the 200A at face value?it's not my house, nor my job, so I don't know. I'm only going by what he said
Maybe there are three olympic sized pools. maybe there are motorized lifts for handicapped people to get in and out of the pool. maybe it's a pool Cabana with motorized roof.
all I do know is when a guy says he's about to do a load calculation, and the pool is 60 amps, I take it at face value. He probably has some kind of specs
So what is the 60A used for if not heating?
plus a few T-101 timers of course.The swimming pool contractor supplies his own panel (with breakers already installed) that I was told to bring 60-amps. Not sure what else besides pump, lighting and perhaps a 20-amp receptacle for tools/servicing?
NEC calculations are so conservative that home will never see 185 amps in operation.
Then don't you also have to take the 200A at face value?