210.63 questions

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celtic

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NJ
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210.63

Heating, Air-Conditioning, and Refrigeration Equipment Outlet.
A 125-volt, single-phase, 15- or 20- ampere-rated receptacle outlet shall be installed at an accessible location for the servicing of heating, airconditioning, and refrigeration equipment. The receptacle shall be located on the same level and within 7.5 m (25 ft) of the heating, air-conditioning, and refrigeration equipment. The receptacle outlet shall not be connected to theload side of the equipment disconnecting means.

Exception:
A receptacle outlet shall not be required at one- and two-family dwellings for the service of evaporative coolers.
I have a rehab from hell project happening....

Questions:
1 - The AHU is located on it's side, under the "peaked/eave"(?) of the roof on this SFH Cape home, behind a knee wall, with an access panel, buried behind a closet....am I required to provide both a light and GFCI outlet ...just a GFI...just a light? (servicing)

2 - If a light is required....since it's not in a closet (behind it, through the access panel...) will a keyless suffice?

3 - What the heck is an "evaporative cooler"? (210.63 Exception) The only result from a search in the '05 was that exception???
 
Sorry I can only attempt to answer…
2. I'd go with a motion sensor on light, switched inside. (just my opinion)
3. Down in Southern NC, lower outer banks they elevate the Air handlers to be equal to what is the First floor of the Pole elevated structures (Best Guess). Since most are drive under rentals there is usually a gfci somewhere close.
 
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An evaporative cooler adds moisture to the air which makes it cooler as the moisture absorbs energy (heat) from the air as it evaporates. Its also called a swamp cooler. Remember those canvas water bags? The water evaporating would cool whats inside.
 
Celtic,

An evap. cooler, AKA swamp cooler, is a unit that has a fan and a water

pump. The pump pumps water over filters and the fan draws air thru them

to cool the air. I don't think they are big sellers in the northern parts.
 
Swamp cooler...ok.
Never heard of that.
Thanks for the info.


Any thoughts on the AHU light/recept. question?
"Normally", the AHU is the basement here...lights/recept. are there/will be...but this location :mad:
 
Lights a little dimmer ...

Lights a little dimmer ...

Can I borrow your signature .... LOL
Fireup that spread sheet up, Light it up, Bill' em,
sounds like fluff as opposed to the other parts.
You said closet, Light it up ... 210.8(B)(4) which pushes
over to 210.63.
I'm thinking its more of a built on, outdoor tool shed...
Good Luck
 
Celtic,

On that 210.63, that you posted, it says 'same level and within 25 ft.' I

would think that the recpt. is covered, as far as a light goes, I don't know,

is it in the code that a light needs to be provided??
 
cadpoint said:
Can I borrow your signature .... LOL
Sure....but you may like some of these more:
- Anyone who has never made a mistake has never tried anything new
- Intellectuals solve problems; geniuses prevent them.
- If I had my life to live over again, I'd be a plumber.
- Learn from yesterday, live for today, hope for tomorrow. The important thing is to not stop questioning.
- A question that sometimes drives me hazy: am I or are the others crazy?

Here's a hint ~ these are all from the same person. (No cheating ang googling the quotes...just guess ;) )

cadpoint said:
Fireup that spread sheet up, Light it up, Bill' em,
sounds like fluff as opposed to the other parts.
You said closet, Light it up ... 210.8(B)(4) which pushes
over to 210.63.
I'm thinking its more of a built on, outdoor tool shed...
Good Luck
Spreadsheets on fire :)

Spent 2 hours there today...layed out to print (LOL)...extras (round 1) are at just under 2k w/o any input from the HO's ....GC is "upselling" for me :D...I'll bump that even higher when I talk to the HO's personally (round 2).
 
benaround said:
Celtic,

On that 210.63, that you posted, it says 'same level and within 25 ft.' I

would think that the recpt. is covered,
True...but, does it need to be GFI'ed???
A GFI in the middle of a bedroom ??? (I've heard rumors that some folks from other States put outlets in a Bdrm on an AFIC ;) ).

benaround said:
as far as a light goes, I don't know,

is it in the code that a light needs to be provided??
I dunno either?
There gonna need more than a light to change the filter...maybe a sawzall.:grin:
 
I have had AHU in closets before with absolutely no room for a light. If the room adjacent to the closet (bedroom) has a light a sificiently lights the access area I believe you will be okay. As always it is the inspectors decision whether it will suffice.

Why do you think it must be GFCI protected-- art. 210.63 does not require GFCI and art. 210.8 also will not challenge that rule.
 
Dennis Alwon said:
Why do you think it must be GFCI protected-- art. 210.63 does not require GFCI and art. 210.8 also will not challenge that rule.

I dunno...this?
A 125-volt, single-phase, 15- or 20- ampere-rated receptacle outlet shall be installed at an accessible location for the servicing of heating, airconditioning, and refrigeration equipment.


Kind of vauge, I think .
 
celtic said:
I dunno...this?
[/B]

Kind of vauge, I think .

Not vague at all... It is requiring a recep. 125 V . If it is outdoors or in other areas requiring GFCI protect according to 210.8 then you would be required to have GFCI protection
 
I agree with Dennis, no GFCI required. The bedroom receptacles probably cover the servicing recep. I think a keyless would be fine, if you have clearance from insulation.
 
Swamp Cooler, a swamp cooler adds moisture to the air to cool the space as opposed to the mechanical cooling in the NE (central air, window shakers), these are most effective in the dryer climates. You place one in your attic and open all your windows and let it blow.
 
jmd445 said:
a swamp cooler adds moisture to the air to cool the space . . .
Actually, it's not "adding moisture" that cools the air, it's allowing the water to evaporate as the air passes through it that absorbs heat, just like perspiration evaporating on your skin. The reason high humidity feels hotter is that perspiration evaporation slows down as the air nears saturation, aka increasing in relative humidity.

Relative humidity is the percentage of water in the air compared to the amout that would be 100% at a given temperature. The same absolute humidity varies in relative humidity as the temperature varies. The dew point is the temperature at which a given absolute humidity would become 100% relative humidity.


Over 40 years ago, my dad owned a laundromat that had an evaporative cooling tower on the roof. It was a wood structure around 3' square and maybe 6' tall, with a solid roof and a downdraft fan, similar to a whole-house fan.

It had a water feed with a float ball and valve similar to a toilet inlet valve, a water pan around the bottom, and a small pump like a condensate lift pump. The four walls were louvered and stuffed with a straw-hay-like material.

The pump drew water from the pan and dripped it at the top of the hay, where it kept the straw damp as air passed through it, cooling the air quite effectively, and the float and valve kept the water level in the pan consistent.

He always had trouble with the valve, and when I went onto the roof with him to look at it, I suggested replacing the valve with a float switch and a solenoid valve. We went to Grainger's and bought the parts and put it together.

He never had a problem with it after that. I was maybe 13 or 14 at the time. He's called me his little genius ever since. :smile:
 
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Larry Fine said: "He's called me his little genius ever since."

Larry I don't know about the genius part. But you certainly supply a wealth of information on a number of topics.:smile:
 
stickboy1375 said:
Just a guess but I'm sure evaporation had a great deal with it...

LOL :D

Yeah I know. :)

Larry had said we where 'not adding moisture to the air'.

I was just having some fun as the water is evaporating into the air.

But I knew what he meant and it was a good description.
 
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