210.8 B2 and restaurants

[dm9289]

I’m a little confused in restaurant requirements regarding GFCI.
B. Other than dwelling kitchens- does this translate too all outlets in food prep area sink or not requires GFCI that’s how I read it.

As for appliances say electric or gas fryers with electronics. Do these require GFCI?
How about the ovens?

Thanks

 

[brantmacga]

Everything within the kitchen has to be GFCI protected. That includes the gas fryer receptacles, and the food prep areas. If I use shunt-trip breakers on the gas fryers instead of a hood control panel, I’ll put a dead-front GFCI in an adjacent wall with an engraved cover identifying what it’s for.

Any equipment that plugs in requires gfci per those listed in the code. If it’s 3-phase, anything 100A or less and 150v to ground, and single phase is 50A or less, and 125-250v.

If you have 3-phase, Square D is the only manufacturer that offers 3-pole GFCI’s in a miniature breaker up to 50A. They have some GFCI modules for PowerPact breakers for the 60A-100A loads; those modules are about $2k each. That one goes up to 150A, and they do offer a 250A version as well.

Littlefuse makes a contactor with CT’s connected to a GFCI module. The 60A is $2k, the 100A is $5k.

North Shore Safety has a 60/3 GFCI contactor module that’s $1500.

Bender is another company that makes 60A and 100A GFCI contactors, but they’re more expensive than the Littlefuse brand.


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[dm9289]

Thanks for your reply. Wow those prices are nuts for 3 phase

 

[dm9289]

Everything within the kitchen has to be GFCI protected. That includes the gas fryer receptacles, and the food prep areas. If I use shunt-trip breakers on the gas fryers instead of a hood control panel, I’ll put a dead-front GFCI in an adjacent wall with an engraved cover identifying what it’s for.

Any equipment that plugs in requires gfci per those listed in the code. If it’s 3-phase, anything 100A or less and 150v to ground, and single phase is 50A or less, and 125-250v.

If you have 3-phase, Square D is the only manufacturer that offers 3-pole GFCI’s in a miniature breaker up to 50A. They have some GFCI modules for PowerPact breakers for the 60A-100A loads; those modules are about $2k each. That one goes up to 150A, and they do offer a 250A version as well.

Littlefuse makes a contactor with CT’s connected to a GFCI module. The 60A is $2k, the 100A is $5k.

North Shore Safety has a 60/3 GFCI contactor module that’s $1500.

Bender is another company that makes 60A and 100A GFCI contactors, but they’re more expensive than the Littlefuse brand.


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If you had a direct wired range hood would that require GFCI?
IMO no

 

[brantmacga]

One of the chicken restaurants we build a lot of switched to a 70A plug-in electric fryer a couple of years ago. They just decided to go back to gas. The receptacle and cord cap alone add up to $1200 per fryer, and a total of six fryers.


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[brantmacga]

If you had a direct wired range hood would that require GFCI?
IMO no

A hard-wired appliance does not require a gfci, and that’s what most restaurants are opting for on anything above 50A.

I just priced a few jobs for a hamburger joint that’s expanding in the southeast and they want all of their 70A griddles hard-wired to avoid the cost of the gfci.


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[dm9289]

A hard-wired appliance does not require a gfci, and that’s what most restaurants are opting for on anything above 50A.

I just priced a few jobs for a hamburger joint that’s expanding in the southeast and they want all of their 70A griddles hard-wired to avoid the cost of the gfci.


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Yes I can imagine many chains will do that. Thanks for sharing your experience