5/8" drywalls when I set all my boxes for 1/2"

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Coppersmith said:
They are designed to be recessed 1/8". Take a plastic box. Slide it against a 2x4 until it hits the stud stops. Measure the distance the box protrudes past the face of the 2x4. That distance is 3/8". (You can do this at Home Depot if you don't stock these items.)
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I know there is a 3/8" line on box, but have never seen where it tells me that I have to use it
 
Coppersmith said:
Then one day the GC hires a drywall company that actually knows how to install drywall and all the boxes are protruding 1/8". GC says you must fix all boxes on your dime.
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As I said, it is very easy to bump a plastic box back 1/8" if nothing is behind it, the nails will bend and box will still be secure. This is not an unproven theory, I've done it many times
 
Coppersmith said:
They may make extenders for round boxes, but I've never seen one.
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Now ya' have:

Arlington_BE1R__43567.1432150157.380.500.jpg
 
Coppersmith said:
They are designed to be recessed 1/8". Take a plastic box. Slide it against a 2x4 until it hits the stud stops. Measure the distance the box protrudes past the face of the 2x4. That distance is 3/8". (You can do this at Home Depot if you don't stock these items.)
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I think it depends on the box. Yes the garbage carlon boxes have a 3/8 notch. Actual good boxes like allied molded its bigger, more like 7/16 I think. Irregardless, I dont like to use the notches because with the bevel on the corner of the stud, they end up being even further back. I eye it using the notch as a reference adding a bit so the boxes end up real close to 1/2 proud.
 
electrofelon said:
I think it depends on the box. Yes the garbage carlon boxes have a 3/8 notch. Actual good boxes like allied molded its bigger, more like 7/16 I think. Irregardless, I dont like to use the notches because with the bevel on the corner of the stud, they end up being even further back. I eye it using the notch as a reference adding a bit so the boxes end up real close to 1/2 proud.
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I have a jig made out of 1/2 plywood, puts them all same height and can use the thickness as a guide for getting it flush for 1/2 finishes. Can usually eyeball close enough if needing to go with 3/8 or 5/8 finish. That said a stud occasionally will twist a little after the fact as they can do when drying out and when you come back to finish the side furthest from stud might stick out past drywall. With plastic boxes this often can be fixed with grinder or oscillating tool.
 
kwired said:
I have a jig made out of 1/2 plywood, puts them all same height and can use the thickness as a guide for getting it flush for 1/2 finishes. Can usually eyeball close enough if needing to go with 3/8 or 5/8 finish. That said a stud occasionally will twist a little after the fact as they can do when drying out and when you come back to finish the side furthest from stud might stick out past drywall. With plastic boxes this often can be fixed with grinder or oscillating tool.
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I hadn't thought of grinding them off. Not sure what my area inspector would say.
 
ptonsparky said:
I hadn't thought of grinding them off. Not sure what my area inspector would say.
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Done it for about as long as I have been in the trade, especially on one and two gang boxes, anything larger, depends on how bad it is extending past the surface. It don't work with metal boxes and plaster rings you lose your mounting hole if you need to grind that area of the box.
 
kwired said:
I have a jig made out of 1/2 plywood, puts them all same height and can use the thickness as a guide for getting it flush for 1/2 finishes. Can usually eyeball close enough if needing to go with 3/8 or 5/8 finish. That said a stud occasionally will twist a little after the fact as they can do when drying out and when you come back to finish the side furthest from stud might stick out past drywall. With plastic boxes this often can be fixed with grinder or oscillating tool.
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Yeah I've done the jig too, works nice.

Sometimes a Madison can be used to suck in a box a little if it's proud due to stud not square
 
I will square up the stud with a large set of channel locks then nail or screw it in place when I notice that it is crooked.
Grinding works that why I prefer the solid plastic screw hole compared to the quick spring.
 
Knuckle Dragger said:
I will square up the stud with a large set of channel locks then nail or screw it in place when I notice that it is crooked.
Grinding works that why I prefer the solid plastic screw hole compared to the quick spring.
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I will do that too if I see it is crooked, sometimes they still warp/twist after you have been there for rough in - they are still drying out
 
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