5000 watt infra red heater stack switch

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Roger9

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Tampa
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Electrican
Hey guys so I posted about this heater we installed a couple weeks ago I need a couple more opinions on the matter but basically I have a 5000 watt heater. 2 pole 30amp breaker 10/2 romex from panel to switch and 10/3 up to the heater. Per the manufacturers instructions they recommend tapping down to #12 once you hit the switch. I was able to do so for the hot side or input side of switch but Im running out of room to make anymore joints to tap down the 2 switch legs which are #10. The switch is a Leviton 20amp stack switch so I called leviton after I left the job and they’re saying the switch is only rated for #14-#12 I got a good wrap on the switch and it’s definitely not loose but I’m wondering if I should go back and try and tap down the 2 switch legs to #12
 
That is funny! 😄


That's what you tell the customer. You should do it correctly.

Box fill is about not damaging or overheating the wiring.
ok it actually is pretty funny lol. So I’m good on box fill. There’s actually 2 heaters, so I have 2 stack switches and I changed the 2 gang box the previous electrician used and installed a 3 gang so Im under my box fill now
 
Splice your NM conductors on to some stranded conductors and crimp some spade terminals on to them and land those on the switch.
 
You should do those in 10 3 so you have the one hot reidentified and only 2500w going on each leg through the switch. These are the tungsten tubes right? If so that's what I've done and I've done 4 in romex to a j box then carflex and pvc and one was in all pvc and carflex no romex and that one I used stranded and it all fit easy with 10awg all the way.

To save space use insulated crimps or those 3m yellow blue mini wirenuts they take 3 10s I belive and use stranded where you can.

Also daisy chain the ground as ugly as it is doing it will reduce your wires footprint. That will need solid though so make up all the switches with it already in place and fold it in.
 
You should do those in 10 3 so you have the one hot reidentified and only 2500w going on each leg through the switch. These are the tungsten tubes right? If so that's what I've done and I've done 4 in romex to a j box then carflex and pvc and one was in all pvc and carflex no romex and that one I used stranded and it all fit easy with 10awg all the way.

To save space use insulated crimps or those 3m yellow blue mini wirenuts they take 3 10s I belive and use stranded where you can.

Also daisy chain the ground as ugly as it is doing it will reduce your wires footprint. That will need solid though so make up all the switches with it already in place and fold it in.
Right thanks for the info. I thought about changing over the #10 stranded to hookup my switch. Only thing I’m worried about is the switch is only rated for 14-12 gauge wire
 
Hence the suggestions to use crimp terminals or short pigtails.
Right the crimp terminals is a good idea I didn’t think about that. But I might just pigtail down to #12 and call it a day. And use the wire nuts he suggested to save room
 
Splice your NM conductors on to some stranded conductors and crimp some spade terminals on to them and land those on the switch.
Isn’t taps only allowed if the run does not exceed a certain distance, is enclosed in conduit, tap has an ampacity not less than a percent such as 1/10 the supply breaker ampacity and terminates into a breaker on the wires load end at its ampacity?
 
Isn’t taps only allowed if the run does not exceed a certain distance, is enclosed in conduit, tap has an ampacity not less than a percent such as 1/10 the supply breaker ampacity and terminates into a breaker on the wires load end at its ampacity?
I never said to reduce conductor size, just to splice on some stranded conductors.
 
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