6" Hole Saw Preferences for wafer lights.

[4x4dually]

At the point of installing a few dozen recessed wafer lights into my hardy board soffit to be followed by 75 or so of them inside in the sheet rock once the dry wall'rs get done.

What brand or type of hole saws do you folks that install these all the time use? I got a nice Dewalt 4" carbide hole saw the other day that worked great in some aluminum sheet but I can't find it in 6". And the spec sheet for the Halo says 6-1/8" hole. I'm also assuming that a 6" hole saw plus its wiggle will make a 6-1/8" hole.

Any advice out there for brand or type of bit before I buy something that looks pretty in the package?

 

[LarryFine]

Klein Tools 6-3/8 in. Bi-Metal Hole Saw 31900 - The Home Depot

Klein's Bi-metal Hole Saws are optimized for cutting steel. The blades provide the fastest, most consistent and longest lasting cutting on the market today. Heavy-duty construction includes thicker 5 mil back plates to stand up to abuse much better.

www.homedepot.com

Milwaukee 6-3/8 in. Carbide Recessed Light Hole Saw With Pilot Bit 49-56-0305 - The Home Depot

The Milwaukee 6 in. Recessed Light Installation Kit includes a hole saw and a pilot bit. This kit features a carbide-grit edge. A continual rim to help ensure clean cuts.

www.homedepot.com

 

[James L]

6-⅛" is found only in metric, that I know of.
155mm is approx 6.1 inches

I've used this one and it works good enough for me...

Amazon.com

 

[Little Bill]

I use the Milwaukee that Larry posted. It is 6-3/8" and the wafers fit well. It is a grit saw, no teeth. I've even used it on a concrete ceiling,so it should work well on Hardy. I've cut around 20 holes Sat. and today, some in drywall some ceiling tiles.

 

[James L]

I wouldn't use 6-⅜ hole saw if it calls for 6-⅛

Halo makes more than one 6-inch slim panel, and they're not all the same size.

The one calling for 6-⅛ cutout is only 6.7" in diameter, which is about 6-11/16

You're only talking about ⅛ inch all around for the panel lip to grab

 

[Little Bill]

I don't recall if I have installed any Halo brand, but I have used several different brands. I always check their template, and also the trim/lip of the light, against my hole saw before cutting.

 

[letgomywago]

I always use the kline one or if it's in plaster I use a carbide one not the milwaukee. I use halo wafers also and they cover not problem so long as you don't let it wobble. The Juno ones have bigger flanges as do commercial electric brand ones.

 

[LarryFine]

By the way, using an extension allows you to drill while standing on the floor, and mqkes it much easier to maintain control and not tilt the cup and have it walk across the ceiling.

I use the deeper clear plastic potted-plant water-catching dishes as dust catchers.

 

[4x4dually]

I wouldn't use 6-⅜ hole saw if it calls for 6-⅛

Halo makes more than one 6-inch slim panel, and they're not all the same size.

The one calling for 6-⅛ cutout is only 6.7" in diameter, which is about 6-11/16

You're only talking about ⅛ inch all around for the panel lip to grab

Bingo. This trim ring as you stated measures 6.67" diameter. Sure doesn't give a lot of wiggle room. I've also never had a hole saw give a hole exactly the size it states, they are always slightly larger. That's why I figured a 6" tool would work. The actual light housing bosses that require clearance measure 6.07" diameter. In sheet rock, that would just push in easy.

I was recommended the abrasive saw instead of teeth for the hardy board by the builder.....but I'm sure he's never install one before so I wanted to ask you experts.

 

[Dennis Alwon]

I use to use the Nora adjustable hole saw

Nora Lighting NSC-6600 8 in. Round Hole Cutter​

 

[James L]

I was recommended the abrasive saw instead of teeth for the hardy board by the builder.....

Doh
I missed the hardi board.
Their webside says you can use carbide "tipped"

I've never had any success using carbide "grit" in anythingbother than plaster

 

[James L]

I would try this because of a good price.

I think Grainger has this size for about double

https://www.amazon.com/HLOFIZI-Recessed-Multi-Material-Sheetrock-Fiberglass/dp/B0BPQV2P2Y/ref=mp_s_a_1_1_sspa?crid=ZPKMT9B6UU07&keywords=carbide+6-1%2F8+hole+saw&qid=1680010750&sprefix=carbide+6-1%2F8+hole+saw%2Caps%2C256&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEzT0FUWDBGVlpNQUdHJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNjI3MTUwMzlGNFJFM1JGV0dTQiZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwNDcyNzgzQjc0VzRBM0IwQ1FUJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfcGhvbmVfc2VhcmNoX2F0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=

 

[4x4dually]

Just ordered two of these.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Spyder-6-in-Carbide-Tipped-Non-Arbored-Hole-Saw/1001079446

 

[4x4dually]

Gonna 3D print these little caps to put on the power supply pigtails to keep drywall dust and insulation out of the connector during rough-in phase. I'm sure with spray foam in the attic they will get crap all over them.

 

[Knuckle Dragger]

By the way, using an extension allows you to drill while standing on the floor, and mqkes it much easier to maintain control and not tilt the cup and have it walk across the ceiling.

I use the deeper clear plastic potted-plant water-catching dishes as dust catchers.

I'm partial to the half basketball myself.

 

[Little Bill]

Just ordered two of these.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Spyder-6-in-Carbide-Tipped-Non-Arbored-Hole-Saw/1001079446

You better rethink using a 6" hole saw, especially in the Hardy board. I've cut tons with the grit saw and it's pretty true to size. You don't want to have to sand or file the hole out for the light to fit. You might get by with it on drywall but it will be very tight and you chance breaking the edges of the drywall.

Also, don't know if that hole saw fits anything but the Spyder arbor kit. So if you don't have one you might need to get one. I have the Spyder kit with two arbors and two pilot bits. If I need a saw different then what's in the kit, I but them separately.

 

[readydave8]

Just ordered two of these.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Spyder-6-in-Carbide-Tipped-Non-Arbored-Hole-Saw/1001079446

thats what I have for hardyboard soffits, been a few years but don't remember having problem with fit, we were using Lithonia 6" (I think Halo the same)

those bits work in wood and sheetrock when that's only 6" whole saw on truck

 

[4x4dually]

I've cut tons with the grit saw and it's pretty true to size.

Also, don't know if that hole saw fits anything but the Spyder arbor kit.

This isn't a grit saw. I'm sure it will wobble and cut larger than itself. I've never had one not.

I also assumed my Lennox arbor would fit it. Good to know. At least I can pick up an arbor locally. Had to have Lowes ship me the cutter.

thats what I have for hardyboard soffits, been a few years but don't remember having problem with fit.

Great news. Thanks.

 

[Little Bill]

This isn't a grit saw. I'm sure it will wobble and cut larger than itself. I've never had one not.

I also assumed my Lennox arbor would fit it. Good to know. At least I can pick up an arbor locally. Had to have Lowes ship me the cutter.

Great news. Thanks.

Maybe so. I have used that saw on brick and block but haven't noticed if it wobbled much as it didn't matter. I guess what I was meaning is the grit saw is the way to go for a truer hole to match the intended size.
I don't know how that saw you bought will work in drywall as I haven't used it for that.

 

[4x4dually]

Also, don't know if that hole saw fits anything but the Spyder arbor kit. So if you don't have one you might need to get one.

I went to Lowe's at lunch. The Lennox arbor on the shelf fit all the Spyder hole saws....so I'm going to assume the Lennox arbor I have at home will fit it. Hole saws are "out for delivery" today. I'll try it when I get home. I also bought the Spyder arbor just in case since I'm gonna take tomorrow off from the office and try to get more rough-in done. If I don't use it, I'll take it back. I didn't want to have to drive to town to get one if I needed it this weekend.