6awg splices would you use 3M (B/G+) or 2 port insulated taps?

[PowerMan2020]

Splicing 6-3 Romex in an 42cu. 11B.
(Romex coming into the back of box with a NM-B clamp connector and an EMT set-screw connector also coming into the side of box for the exit of the splice).

Curious to see what you all would use between 3M Performance Plus Wire Connectors (B/G+) (Rated for a max of 2 #6's) OR 2 Port insulated taps (#4-14)?

Wire nuts would be around half a dollar each while the taps would be $10 each x 3.

 

[infinity]

For a junction box the Blue/Gray wire nuts are fine.

 

[winnie]

I'd trust the wire nuts if the installation instructions were explicitly followed. Most wire nut instructions say that after installation there should be a couple of twists in the wire, I don't know about these particular wire nuts.

I'd prefer to use the two ports taps but that is my DIY preference.

Jon

 

[ActionDave]

I have no problem using wire nuts.

 

[infinity]

I have no problem using wire nuts.

Ditto, as long as the wire nuts are listed for the number and size of the conductors being used then there is no problem. Truth is I've seen many splices that have exceeded that number still didn't have an issue.

 

[ActionDave]

And I'm not as big of a fan of Polaris taps as I once was. I've had occasion to go back on some five to eight year old installs and the insulation on them has not held up well.

 

[480sparky]

Never had an issue with Big Blues.

 

[LarryFine]

I'd base the choice at least partially on the expected load and duration.

 

[PowerMan2020]

I'd base the choice at least partially on the expected load and duration.

The duration of the expected 240V load is 4-5 hours @40A several times per week.

And I'm not as big of a fan of Polaris taps as I once was. I've had occasion to go back on some five to eight year old installs and the insulation on them has not held up well.

I was told taps are the most fail-proof but at 20x the cost of wire nuts and more bulky in the box I'm not the most keen on using them. Since this is not used under constant load I am perfectly OK using these 3M wire nuts. I figure if they are UL listed then why not.

 

[SSDriver]

Nothing wrong with wire nuts on #6 under their rated use. The only time I don't like wire nuts for #6 is in a motor pecker head. They wear through with vibration and heat.

 

[jimport]

Another vote for the wire nuts.

 

[paulengr]

Nothing wrong with wire nuts on #6 under their rated use. The only time I don't like wire nuts for #6 is in a motor pecker head. They wear through with vibration and heat.

So do the insultaps. It just takes longer. That’s why I stopped using them in peckerheads. Crimped lugs and tape is the way to go. Jury is still out on levernuts but I don’t know if they can go to #6.

As a permanent splice another very solid option is barrel connectors. Especially with heat shrink tubes. I’ve used hundreds of them.

 

[kwired]

Split bolt and tape is also an option.

 

[hillbilly1]

Split bolt and tape is also an option.

Reminds me of a service call many years ago, A builder I use to do work for, thought he would save money wiring the cabins himself (no permits or inspections required at that time). He calls me up saying the gas guy got shocked drilling a hole through the wood siding. Got there, found all the nail heads in the siding were 120 volts to ground. Figured they drove a nail through a wire somewhere. Started turning off breakers, voltage disappeared when the stove breaker was turned off. I told the builder they probably drove a nail through the cable somewhere, he said "I had to splice it in an upstairs closet, could I look there?" He had spliced a 6-3 in a standard octagon box, using split bolts! He had managed to get the cover on, one of the split bolts was mashed against the cover, making the ungrounded box live. It was nailed to the wall where it pierced the foil backed insulation board on the outside, which made the entire exterior live !

 

[LarryFine]

Split bolt and tape is also an option.

I like and have recommended them, too, and gotten flak for it here, like in the recent #6-to-the-island thread.

 

[kwired]

I like and have recommended them, too, and gotten flak for it here, like in the recent #6-to-the-island thread.

Old school method that still works. Only place I don't care for them is with aluminum conductors, seen many those fail before, even if properly used. Copper to copper connections seldom fail, if they do it is often a fault through the taping job and not a connection failure.

If there is room and you don't care about ever opening the connection again I would use H-tap, fast and inexpensive - if you already have crimper for it.

Add or even "insulink" connectors.

 

[SSDriver]

So do the insultaps. It just takes longer. That’s why I stopped using them in peckerheads. Crimped lugs and tape is the way to go. Jury is still out on levernuts but I don’t know if they can go to #6.

As a permanent splice another very solid option is barrel connectors. Especially with heat shrink tubes. I’ve used hundreds of them.

I will not use insultaps either, I've had to replace to many motors due to worn through insulation or loose connections. I think the set screws eventually loosen up with heat/vibration. The Wago lever nuts I use are good up to #10. The smaller ones that came out first (#12 and smaller), I have been using in motors for 8+ years with no issues. Up to 480v too. The #10 sized lever nuts I've been using since they came out about 2 yeard or so and have not had an issue yet.

 

[SSDriver]

I like and have recommended them, too, and gotten flak for it here, like in the recent #6-to-the-island thread.

I have never had an issue with a split bolt in a motor either. I use the proper split bolts rated for 3 wires and stranded wire when needed and the same 3 tapes I use when doing crimped lugs/bolts (Friction tape or cambric, 130c, and super 33 or 88). I generally do the crimped lugs/bolts for large motors and medium down to #8 I use split bolts.