AFCI Nuisance trip or a real issue

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acrwc10 said:
I must confess to the master, aka mdshunk , I finally went out and bought one after you had posted the link to " a stitch in time" a while back . It is not a supper deluxe model but a simple digital stile that goes to 1000volt and has volt and ohm meter. Simple yet perfect for what I need. Of course when I got it I went around test everything in the house garage and yard :)
Neat. I feel like a proud papa, for some reason. Glad it helped you out. It was also neat that you saw with your own two eyes that there was no reading on your ohm meter, but the problem was obvious with the megger. It's not the cure-all for any problem, but the one's it does find sure do make you feel good. Your only other option would haver been to try to determine how the circuit was wired and hook it back up piece-by-piece, resetting the breaker each time. Hopefully the megger sped the process up for you. Rather than taking the whole circuit apart, I use the "divide and conquer" approach, as I call it. Roughly determine in your mind's eye how the circuit may have likely been wired, and disconnect it someplace midway, and work from there.
 
mdshunk said:
Neat. I feel like a proud papa, for some reason. Glad it helped you out. It was also neat that you saw with your own two eyes that there was no reading on your ohm meter, but the problem was obvious with the megger. It's not the cure-all for any problem, but the one's it does find sure do make you feel good. Your only other option would haver been to try to determine how the circuit was wired and hook it back up piece-by-piece, resetting the breaker each time. Hopefully the megger sped the process up for you. Rather than taking the whole circuit apart, I use the "divide and conquer" approach, as I call it. Roughly determine in your mind's eye how the circuit may have likely been wired, and disconnect it someplace midway, and work from there.

It sped up the process drastically, and it left no question where the problem was. The divide and conquer method is a great but walking back to the panel all the time "SUCKS". The nice part about using the megger is it proved that the problem was not caused by the original electrician "ME" so I was able to bill for the trouble call , that paid for the tester :)
 
Fluke makes a combo megger/DVM. I have used the hand cranked type, the Fluke you push a button, I am bit doubtful but it works great. I am going to sell the hand crank "megger" on ebay. I see them there for about $300. The three meters a maint person needs is a DVM, clamp on ammeter and megger.

Megger is a trademark of Biddle, by the way.
 
acrwc10 said:
The nice part about using the megger is it proved that the problem was not caused by the original electrician "ME" so I was able to bill for the trouble call , that paid for the tester :)
Did you cut the drywall out to visualize this pinched section of wire?
 
mdshunk said:
Did you cut the drywall out to visualize this pinched section of wire?

I cut out a 4''x6'' square of drywall to get to the pinched wire and cut it out . As luck would have it I had left enough slack on the lead under the house to pull into the outlet box and not have to rerun or use a j box. The spot I cut the drywall was behind a door in the adjacent room ,talk about luck.
 
mdshunk said:
I'm curious if anyone has actually ever successfully used a TDR for NM cable?

I think you'd see a reflection at every snug staple and every 90 degree turn. Plus, we have this funny tendancy to feed through receptacles and cram wired back into boxes, so that would involve taking apart every single connection on the circuit... maybe even grounds too that were done with crimp sleeves. I think the general idea has potential, but I'm not sure the present batch of TDR's are quite suited to the task.

This has my gears spinning on how a longitudional stress test from a telco type kick meter might be useful in pinning down the location of this sort of fault.

I have used them on NM and MC many times - in conduit too with very good results... A former employer had an older version of the Megger one I linked to earlier, and I have/had a much less expensive numeric model of which was fairly relaiable on direct shorts and wide opens - it since has stopped working after <3 years use and full-time in the truck. But when it was working it did pay for itself (<$300) on a few occassions finding various shorts. I once traced a NM through 3 floors (from both ends) to find a sheet rocker had used a 2 1/2" (on 5/8" rock) and put it right through an NM cable. I got within 3" of it with the TDR mode. Toning and measuring the path. Then while toning (same tool) I noticed a loud spot. Pulled out the screw - short gone! Opened the wall, pulled the NM out of the stud to expose where the screw went through - j-boxed it and back charged the rocker. I have done this a number of times - and thats why I say it paid for itself... As it is no longer working - I'm not sure I can faithfully recommend it. :mad: But I have wanted to replace it since it died on me....

The graphic models (Although much more expenive - and not nearly as easy to use) are far superior in finding things IMO. With the one my old shop had - I have found burn wirenuts - hidden j-boxes - burnt wire nuts in hidden j-boxes.... Dead shorts.... Resistive corroded neutral in underground feeder cable, a knick in the jacket allowed the neutral to rot - that one alone was worth its $5000 price tag at the time. That one was a "DIG HERE!" moment on a 1000' feeder. We were the 3rd and smallest shop in to find that one - and the only one that did. And the customer confidence after it did bring in some BIG jobs. I drove nearly an hour out of my way to a supply house that had a simular cable in stock and willing to lay out a measured 50' length of it for me to dial in the VOP settings. I nailed it on site within 2'... I was lucky the trench was 4' long, but the other guys weren't even close, and not confident enough to say "DIG"...

Put it on an old lead jacket industrial 500MCM feeder once - I looked at the run and it had 3 boxes I could visually see. On the TDR it said 2 more splice locations I didn't see under the floor.... And which one had all of the resistance that I was looking for...

The funny thing is once you have and understand how to use a tool like that - word seems to get around, and you get calls to use it more. Even if it is to save your own butt in an expensive back-charge - it's worth it IMO. They are not 100% accurate, and they do take a bit of education and understanding of the circuit and how it works, often through some trial and error. But when you do find stuff - you look like a Guru.
 
e57 said:
when you do find stuff - you look like a Guru.


When you can find or figure out a problem that others could not, that is one of the best fellings in this business. And I like "Super Hero" it has a nice ring....Or maybe a "Brian John" , since he seems to get called to find the real ugly stuff. :grin:
 
OK...I am still a bit lost.


But first, since the megger induces high voltage (DC?) into the circuit, doesn't it damage components (dimmers, lights, appliances, anything that may have been accidentally left plugged in?)


It looks like the megger is attached one lead to the wire and one to the insulation. I don't quite yet understand this but will accept that this willl test the insulation.

What I don't understand is how you found the faulted section with the megger.
 
cschmid said:
hey man thanks for the hook up on the white paper.I would entertain a method of monitoring this type of activity..any ideas..
I use data acquisition equipment that has the capability to do what he shows, although I use a version with limited frequency response (and lower $$$).

If you have interest, look at www.dataq.com. The minimum to do what they show with the AFCI "noise" above would require probably 1 kHz response but only one channel. The advanced mathematics (derivative and integral) requires Dataq's Advanced CODAS package. By selecting a suitable signal conditioner to feed a simple unit, you could use the DI148 or DI158 series and be under $1500, I think, or you could use the DI730 and be in the $5000 range. An example of one I did is below. The file size limits hurt me a little; PM me if you want more info or a better image.
 
220/221 said:
But first, since the megger induces high voltage (DC?) into the circuit, doesn't it damage components (dimmers, lights, appliances, anything that may have been accidentally left plugged in?)

Yes, it sure will. You have to remove lamps from light fixtures. GFCIs, dimmers, and simelar devices have to be removed and wirenutted through.


It looks like the megger is attached one lead to the wire and one to the insulation. I don't quite yet understand this but will accept that this willl test the insulation.
Hook one lead to, say, the black, and the other to the white. Test. Then black and EGC., Then white to EGC. (for NM cable)

What I don't understand is how you found the faulted section with the megger.
Same as you would find a problem with any other tester. Determine there is a fault on the circuit (Low reading, in this case). Break the circuit in the middle, and test both sections. One will be OK, the other has the fault (assuming one fault, of course). Keep breaking down the bad section of the circuit down, until you have narrowed it to one run of cable.
 
al hildenbrand said:
So, arguably, a GFCI breaker, on that circuit, would have tripped intermittently, as well.

Recently diagnosed a problem very similar to the OP's.
Regular breaker - worked fine. AFCI - trip with or
without a load, sometimes instantly, sometimes with
a delay. It was unclear what could be "arcing", so in
scanning around for AFCI information, came across
this video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=liXlvWfLUZ4&eurl=http://www.theelectricalguru.com/video.html

where Mike Holt and a gentleman from CH point
out that AFCIs also have a GFCI function.
In our case, it was indeed the properly functioning
GFCI that seemed to be causing the problem.
 
rexowner said:
In our case, it was indeed the properly functioning
GFCI that seemed to be causing the problem.
So, are you saying a GFCI device on the circuit caused the AFCI breaker to trip, or, that the AFCI breaker was tripping because of a ground fault out on the circuit?
 
I'm reasonably sure that I've never been involved with a call where an AFCI was tripping on anything other than a ground fault event. If I was to run into one tripping on an arcing fault type event, I'm not sure how I'd troubleshoot it. I suppose I'd either have to bone up on the TDR, or hope that the arcing fault created a conductor insulation condition that would show up with the megger.
 
al hildenbrand said:
So, are you saying a GFCI device on the circuit caused the AFCI breaker to trip, or, that the AFCI breaker was tripping because of a ground fault out on the circuit?

In the case I was talking about, the AFCI tripped because of a ground fault out on the circuit.

Maybe I was the only one in the dark, but what I had
not realized before this case was that, while AFCI's
are not required to have GFCI functionality, according
to the video link I sent out, all the manufacturers
are including GFCI functionality in their AFCI breakers.
Maybe I was clueless before, but as these are two separate
functions, I didn't realize GFCI protection came along
with the AFCI device, and since it wasn't obvious to me
until I encountered the trip, I thought it might not be
obvious to others, so might be worth pointing out.
 
rexowner said:
. . . so might be worth pointing out.
Yep. :smile:

It is worth it. The GFCI-like behavior of one part of the AFCI breaker is real good at detecting a bunch of mis-wires that occasionally happen, even to good installers.
 
mdshunk said:
I'm reasonably sure that I've never been involved with a call where an AFCI was tripping on anything other than a ground fault event.
I had a job last summer that the carpenter's saw would trip the AFCI the instant it was turned on. Worked fine on a regular breaker, but if used on any of the 3 different branch feeder AFCIs in the dwelling, it would trip them the instant it was turned on.

BillsAFCITrippingSawWeb4.jpg


I have a new combo AFCI protected circuit in another job that holds a rotozip for a couple minutes before it trips.

While I get to dismiss the Premesis Wiring System and blame the Utilization Equipment, I can't be sure that it is the UE or the AFCI itself.
 
Many AFCI's have dificulty with motors and variable speed motors so I've found. On a few occasions I have called the manufacturers (SqD/Seimens and CH) only to find that there is nothing I can do. SqD actually had a white paper basically laying out the equipment conflicts - and instructions on "How to start your Vaccum Cleaner" - of which I had to have translated into Spanish for the Maid of a multi-million dollar penthouse project.

I have also had problems with flat screen TV's, ballasts, an alarm clock....

And yes - many different job site tools....
 
e57 said:
Many AFCI's have dificulty with motors and variable speed motors so I've found. On a few occasions I have called the manufacturers (SqD/Seimens and CH) only to find that there is nothing I can do. SqD actually had a white paper basically laying out the equipment conflicts - and instructions on "How to start your Vaccum Cleaner" - of which I had to have translated into Spanish for the Maid of a multi-million dollar penthouse project.

I have also had problems with flat screen TV's, ballasts, an alarm clock....

And yes - many different job site tools....


e your link isn't working. But let me guess what it says ,'' if the vacuum cleaner trips the afci , plug it in somewhere that is not on afci protection"
 
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