Air-tight Recessed Can Lights

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jeff48356

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I just failed a rough inspection due to the recessed lights not being Air-tight rated. Apparently there is a new energy code that went into effect on the first of this year, that I was not aware of until just now. I haven't done any work since then that the code would have applied to. All the cans on the main floor are OK because the house has a second floor above them, but the ones on the upper floor need to be changed out with air-tight rated cans. My question is, is there an easier way to make them compliant other than changing them out? Would I be able to simply buy some air-tight cans, remove the gasket around them, and re-apply it to each of the existing cans? Or do they make such gaskets that can be used with non-air-tight cans?
 
How old are the cans you used?
I would think by now all cans sold should be air tight or low air flow
 
They're brand new, but they sell the kind with and without the air gasket around the part that goes through the drywall. The new code requires the kind with the gasket. (Halo H7ICAT versus H7ICT).
 
The only option is to talk the customer into spraying attic lid with foam as this makes the attic a conditioned space. It's an expensive fix but in Arizona most contractors are doing it anyways. Makes our life easier. The inspector may let you cover all the holes in the can with a rated tape. ( I always have an empty box of the H7Icat laying around for inspector but install the H7ICT)
 
Yep, I use air-tight LED trims anyway, but the code requires cans with the foam seal around them. I've already changed them out today, so it doesn't matter anymore. I will use the other cans on the main floor of the next house I wire.
 
The only option is to talk the customer into spraying attic lid with foam as this makes the attic a conditioned space. It's an expensive fix but in Arizona most contractors are doing it anyways. Makes our life easier. The inspector may let you cover all the holes in the can with a rated tape. ( I always have an empty box of the H7Icat laying around for inspector but install the H7ICT)

How 'bout the fire block putty we were talking about last week? Stuff you place in a box to make it fire 'proof.'
 
so how does one cite an 'energy code'?

~RJ~

Probably the same way as a building code or fire code. Nowhere in the NEC does it require smoke alarms in houses, but the building code does. And it is the electrical inspector's job to enforce that rule (one in each bedroom, one in the hall outside the bedrooms, one on the main floor, and one in the basement).
 
( I always have an empty box of the H7Icat laying around for inspector but install the H7ICT)

Why? If Air Seal lights are required you should use them. How does a box of the correct lights on the job site fool the inspector? They can easily tell by looking at the installed housings.
 
Why? If Air Seal lights are required you should use them. How does a box of the correct lights on the job site fool the inspector? They can easily tell by looking at the installed housings.

Exactly! That wouldn't fool any of the inspectors around here. They don't care about any product boxes left on the jobsite; they look for certain things on the cans themselves, namely the foam sealing ring around the can.
 
Haha I agree completely and I should use the airtight ones. And a lot of times I do. However theinspectors where I live are not the brightest and they always look at the box and or the paper document in the can housing and say "looks good, manufacturer says right here it's airtight". Also I always thought the "airtight" rating had not to do with the amount of holes in the housing, adjustment holes, etc. surely the foam can't do much, the trim usually sits pretty tight with or with out it. But again I agree just follow the code and do it the right way. Here in Arizona most houses are getting foamed so airtight is not required .
 
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