Alternative to outdoor wire nuts?

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jaggedben

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Solar and Energy Storage Installer
I'm wondering if anyone here can suggest an alternative to outdoor wire nuts.

To be clear I'm talking about the type like those made by Drycon that come with the goo inside. I dislike these so much that I've continued to use Buchanan crimp connectors with noalox squirted in, even though I haven't been able to confirm they are approved for wet location use. (At least I know they won't come apart! )

Some kind of crimp connector with protective sealant would be ideal, I guess. I've tried searching the interwebs but there's just so many wire connector results I'm not sure I'd have found it if it exists.
 
jaggedben said:
I'm wondering if anyone here can suggest an alternative to outdoor wire nuts.

To be clear I'm talking about the type like those made by Drycon that come with the goo inside. I dislike these so much that I've continued to use Buchanan crimp connectors with noalox squirted in, even though I haven't been able to confirm they are approved for wet location use. (At least I know they won't come apart! )

Some kind of crimp connector with protective sealant would be ideal, I guess. I've tried searching the interwebs but there's just so many wire connector results I'm not sure I'd have found it if it exists.
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Off the top of my head there is the dryconn ksc stuff for lv that is crimped- don't know if that does you any good or not. As for those copper buchanans, they are billed to be pretty resistant to corrosion and are rated for use in fixtures and signs- maybe a little hint about there suitability for exterior environments/listing? Never have given this much thought about the crimps being ok outdoors.
 
jaggedben said:
I'm wondering if anyone here can suggest an alternative to outdoor wire nuts.

To be clear I'm talking about the type like those made by Drycon that come with the goo inside. I dislike these so much that I've continued to use Buchanan crimp connectors with noalox squirted in, even though I haven't been able to confirm they are approved for wet location use. (At least I know they won't come apart! )

Some kind of crimp connector with protective sealant would be ideal, I guess. I've tried searching the interwebs but there's just so many wire connector results I'm not sure I'd have found it if it exists.
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What wire size are you trying to splice?
 
jaggedben said:
I'm really not as concerned about the Buchanans being impervious to corrosion - I think they'll do fine - as about something that's impervious to inspectors. ;)
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I understand fully and think it would take a real listing phobe to nail you over that widely used method.:D
 
user 100 said:
I understand fully and think it would take a real listing phobe to nail you over that widely used method.:D
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Thanks for your support. :cool:

Little Bill said:
Sounds like the same ones linked to in post #3.
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No, the ones in post 3 have silicone filled caps, not heat shrink. I don't really want another tool (torch) to have to deal with every day.
 
jaggedben said:
Thanks for your support. :cool:



No, the ones in post 3 have silicone filled caps, not heat shrink. I don't really want another tool (torch) to have to deal with every day.
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and a torch it would likely be; chances are you wont have power to run a heat gun (the proper way). The Ideal splice kits work well but take some time to heat shrink. A torch could melt the jacket of the UF, and if the cable wasnt neatly cut, you'd need two splices to complete repairs.

I'm not a big fan of torches ever since I had one with a bad valve spew fire everywhere while I was holding it.
 
I've used the ideal as well as marine heat shrink underground splices on many occasions. A good multi temp heatgun is the way to go but isn't always optimum for the situation when no power is nearby. I've learned to use a torch and start at the middle of the splice or barrel and work towards the ends just stopping short of frying the jacket of the wire. I then before it cools but not hot enough to melt the tape start wrapping loosely from the center to the end of the splice. If needed I then would take the extra step of wrapping in mastic and another layer of tape for less than desirable buried connections. I have also found using a portable torch with secured nozzle is not the way to splice in a hole but they sell a flexible hose that you attach to the tank and can manipulate the flame without loosing your eyebrows.
 
Pardon my ignorance here, but is there actually a code section that requires the splices to be listed? I used to just use red or yellow wire nuts, and dip them in a can of Scotchcote.
 
Strathead said:
Pardon my ignorance here, but is there actually a code section that requires the splices to be listed? I used to just use red or yellow wire nuts, and dip them in a can of Scotchcote.
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Ahhh, that's a very interesting solution. Ever had a call-back on that?
 
Strathead said:
Pardon my ignorance here, but is there actually a code section that requires the splices to be listed? I used to just use red or yellow wire nuts, and dip them in a can of Scotchcote.
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Yes, 110.14(B) - "Wire connectors or splicing means installed on conductors for direct burial shall be listed for such use".
 
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