Any ideas
- Thread starter iaov
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bpk
Senior Member
- Location
- Northern Minnesota
On half log siding we usually make a block out of 2x6 or 2x8 or whatever size you need for your faceplate and mount it to a stud and cut your box in on the RI. Then the carpenters cut the half log around it. If they stain it all the same color it matches nicely.
chris kennedy said:
Someone call me?
Step 1: Determine which walls will be log. Don't install the box, just leave a tail of NM long enough to makeup during trim. If it's a switch box, label each cable and wrap the whole thing with tape.
Where every box goes, I write a number (1-4) on the stud. This tells the loggers how many 'gangs' the box needs to be. I leave them one of each size for a template.
Hopefully, your loggers will have experience with D-logs as well. Here's what they should leave you:
At this point, take a standard plastic nail-on and pull the nails and cut the clips that held the nail off. You may need to use a sawzall, chisel or rotozip to make the opening big enough to slide the box in all the way.
Screw the box into the logs to secure it.
Make it up and trim as needed. In these pix, the logs haven't been stained & finished, so I left them without devices. But if they are done when you do this, go ahead and complete the trim.
Find out in advance what the heighth is for the log courses. With my builders, it's usually 8". So I center all the receps at 12", switches at 52. Even on non-logged walls. This makes everything consistent throughout the house.
FWIW, I don't understand why most of you don't like log homes. They aren't any harder to wire than any other. It just takes more labor. So what are you complaining about? Labor = money. And that's why we do what we do, don't we?
peter d
Senior Member
- Location
- New England
480sparky said:
Sounds like a "Smart box" would be easier, no?
480, if you get a little wordier and add some more pictures you can sell the DIY log home wiring book at Home Dumpster:grin:. That might be one they don't have already...
It looks like you should try the Smartbox or Arlington Onebox though, it would save some time on your box installation.
It looks like you should try the Smartbox or Arlington Onebox though, it would save some time on your box installation.
peter d
Senior Member
- Location
- New England
480sparky said:Won't help if the hole is too small.
I'm not following you. You wouldn't have to cut the nail tabs off with a smart box.
peter d
Senior Member
- Location
- New England
jdsmith said:
Let's just say you must really be on your game to post faster than me. :roll:
480sparky said:Someone call me?
Step 1: Determine which walls will be log. Don't install the box, just leave a tail of NM long enough to makeup during trim. If it's a switch box, label each cable and wrap the whole thing with tape.
Where every box goes, I write a number (1-4) on the stud. This tells the loggers how many 'gangs' the box needs to be. I leave them one of each size for a template.
Hopefully, your loggers will have experience with D-logs as well. Here's what they should leave you:
At this point, take a standard plastic nail-on and pull the nails and cut the clips that held the nail off. You may need to use a sawzall, chisel or rotozip to make the opening big enough to slide the box in all the way.
[u
Screw the box into the logs to secure it.
Make it up and trim as needed. In these pix, the logs haven't been stained & finished, so I left them without devices. But if they are done when you do this, go ahead and complete the trim.
Find out in advance what the heighth is for the log courses. With my builders, it's usually 8". So I center all the receps at 12", switches at 52. Even on non-logged walls. This makes everything consistent throughout the house.
FWIW, I don't understand why most of you don't like log homes. They aren't any harder to wire than any other. It just takes more labor. So what are you complaining about? Labor = money. And that's why we do what we do, don't we?
Where's your "Greenie" wire nut? Sorry couldn't resist....
peter d said:
I thought you were talking about the boxes that can be adjusted for depth after the wall surace is installed (like for tiled kitchen & bath walls).
Mule said:Where's your "Greenie" wire nut? Sorry couldn't resist....
Buchanan crimp. I doesn't show in the final pix as it's already stuffed into the back.
jdsmith said:
I'm way ahead of ya! :grin:
peter d
Senior Member
- Location
- New England
Arlington One Box
480sparky said:I'm way ahead of ya! :grin:
Sounds like you've got a few us of who are good for a blurb on the back cover. Peter's will be at the top of course. I can help you tie it into the refining market - with all of the oil money floating around right now we might be seeing log cabin electrical equipment shelters before long!
peter d
Senior Member
- Location
- New England
480sparky said:
For the extra cost of a One Box, you don't have to do any modifying, and the screws are already set and ready to go...
jdsmith said:
They probably spent 4 hours down at HD sorting through the pile. :grin:
That 'driver looks like either a Craftmans or a Cully.
peter d said:
But that's the problem.... how much are they, and does the price difference offset the 4-5 seconds it takes me to prep a Carlon box?
jdsmith said:
Junk falls into trash can. I prefab boxes in bulk out in my workshop. I have a dedicated station just for it. A piece of metal with two lots to match the nails. Slide the nails in, pull on the box. Less than 2 secs, the nails are out, and the box is against a bench grinder. A custom-made stop block keeps the wheel away from the box. Zip, Zip, the tabs are gone. As I set the box down, my other hand already has another box ready. I've timed it. 4-5 seconds per.
As for the screws, they go in my pouch. Along with wire nuts, buchanans, etc. It's not hard lining the screws up when you use the sleeve on a driver-finder.
Purchase screws? The drywallers donate 'em to me.
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