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Any tricks for Old Work Box opening that's too large?

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bjp_ne_elec

Senior Member
Location
Southern NH
Sheetrocker cut the hole too big on an old work box opening, and the tabs aren't catching. Any neat tricks or "gadgets" to fix this issue - short of cutting out the rock and patching in a new piece with a proper sized cut out?

Boy - if it ain't one thing, it's another! Can't win on this job - everything I come to, ends up being a surprise.

Thanks,

Brett
 

celtic

Senior Member
Location
NJ
Why is the sheetrocker cutting holes for an old work box?

Heck, if there is a sheetrocker on-site...find the stud and nail a box on.

Either way, it's his problem now ;)
 
What I have done in the past is:

Cut two short pieces of wood and insert them in the hole one at a time, screwing through the sheetrock to support them. Make sure you leave enough room to install the box. Now you can plaster or sheetrock over the wood and paint. The box will now be well supported to complete your work.
 

celtic

Senior Member
Location
NJ
Pierre C Belarge said:
Now you can plaster or sheetrock over the wood and paint.

So the rocker cuts the holes for an outlet, and the electrician repairs the damage to the sheetrock....what's wrong with that picture? :D
 

electricman2

Senior Member
Location
North Carolina
Occupation
Retired Electrical Contractor
celtic said:
So the rocker cuts the holes for an outlet, and the electrician repairs the damage to the sheetrock....what's wrong with that picture? :D
Nothing as long as he is getting paid for it:cool:
 

ceknight

Senior Member
bjp_ne_elec said:
Sheetrocker cut the hole too big on an old work box opening, and the tabs aren't catching. Any neat tricks or "gadgets" to fix this issue - short of cutting out the rock and patching in a new piece with a proper sized cut out?

Maybe it's just me, but the terms "sheetrocker" and "old work box" just don't seem to fit together nicely... :O

These probably won't help you if you're not on a stud, but: http://www.contractor-books.com/SmartBox.htm if you are.

The sheetrock patch shouldn't be your problem since you didn't cut the hole, but....the trick is to slide a short (7" to 1') piece of wood lath into the hole, line it up horizontally with the top or bottom of where the hole was supposed to be, sink a sheetrock screw into it through the sheetrock a few inches from each side of the box, then patch the oops using the lath as a backer. When the patch is set, you can install your old work box and it'll clamp onto the lath just fine.

And now that I've typed that up, I see Pierre already did.....Oh, well. ;)
 

al hildenbrand

Senior Member
Location
Minnesota
Occupation
Electrical Contractor, Electrical Consultant, Electrical Engineer
bjp_ne_elec said:
Sheetrocker cut the hole too big on an old work box opening, and the tabs aren't catching.
I'm not sure I've got this.

Are "the tabs" the old work box plaster ears, or

Are "the tabs" the device yoke ears?
 

infinity

Moderator
Staff member
Location
New Jersey
Occupation
Journeyman Electrician
You could try one of these:

1408.jpg



Here's the link:

http://www.erico.com/products/CADDYcfcDvcLvlrRetnr.asp
 

roger

Moderator
Staff member
Location
Fl
Occupation
Retired Electrician
I would do the same as 77401, and from now on, I would tell the sheetrocker thanks for the help but I will cut my own holes. Having the sheetrocker cut these holes doesn't make any sense.

Roger
 

bjp_ne_elec

Senior Member
Location
Southern NH
Trevor - that's what I was looking for!

Elec2 - I agree with you - I'm getting paid by the hour on this one.

Al - the tabs I speak of are the metal ears on the top and bottom of the box - not the yoke on the device.


Brett
 

celtic

Senior Member
Location
NJ
bjp_ne_elec said:
Trevor - that's what I was looking for!

Elec2 - I agree with you - I'm getting paid by the hour on this one.

Al - the tabs I speak of are the metal ears on the top and bottom of the box - not the yoke on the device.
I thought the Caddy RLC are for devices...not boxes - CADDY? Device Leveler And Retainer...good luck getting that OVER/AROUND a box, I have a hard time w/GFCI devices and RLCs.
 

roger

Moderator
Staff member
Location
Fl
Occupation
Retired Electrician
Brett, the item Tervor is showing will not hold your box in place, it is for supporting the device when the box is set to deep or the sheetrock is cut to large for the device ears to rest against, the box would need to be secured to the framing.

Roger
 

infinity

Moderator
Staff member
Location
New Jersey
Occupation
Journeyman Electrician
roger said:
Brett, the item Tervor is showing will not hold your box in place, it is for supporting the device when the box is set to deep or the sheetrock is cut to large for the device ears to rest against, the box would need to be secured to the framing.

Roger

Roger is correct, however depending on the size of the hole it still may work. Although that is not the intent of the design of the device.
 

al hildenbrand

Senior Member
Location
Minnesota
Occupation
Electrical Contractor, Electrical Consultant, Electrical Engineer
Brett,

Pierre and Chris have the solution.

Instead of lathe, I like 1/4 or 3/8" plywood (the drywall screws won't split it). I agree with Chris, the plywood should be in two strips about 7-8" long and only 1-2" wide.

Put one plywood strip at a time inside the hole, and hold the strip with your fingers against the back side of the drywall. While pressing the plywood against the drywall, set a couple drywall screws through the drywall and into the plywood.

Use a metal rework box with plaster ears that are depth-adjustable so you can screw the plaster ears directly to the plywood also, leaving the front of the box out at the drywall surface where it should be.

Slap in some Durabond 30, or equiv., and leave the rest for the drywaller and/or painter to smooth out.
 

Jim W in Tampa

Senior Member
Location
Tampa Florida
We usually have the problem being the drywall guys didnt cut out for the box.Why was this guy doing your job to start with ?Many ways to fix this but he needs to learn.Solution #1 = make him come back and repair/replace drywall.Solution #2 you do the above and he will continue to mess things up.Your an electrician and patching is not something you should be doing.If this drywall guy looses an hour or two for free he will start being more carefull.
 
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