Arc-fault/GFIC squareD breakers

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guschash

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In my daughters remodel job on her home in Colorado I put all new Square D panels with Arc-fault/GFIC breakers, now she is having issues with them tripping. I don't know if they are over sensitive or something is wrong in the wiring. In her utility room where the panel is located there is the washer and dryer. She did about 3 or 4 loads of wash and then the breaker tripped. Now on the other side of the wall that washer is located are plumbing for the shower in another room. Do you think since the wiring and receptacle for washer is located in the same cavity as the plumbing that this could be causing the tripping?
 
Now on the other side of the wall that washer is located are plumbing for the shower in another room. Do you think since the wiring and receptacle for washer is located in the same cavity as the plumbing that this could be causing the tripping?

If the plumbing is leaking it could cause a problem. I'm only half joking. I have been on jobs where professional plumbers have left some pretty good leaks (shoddy work).

I would probably try just swapping out the breakers to start with because that's the easiest thing to do.
 
In my daughters remodel job on her home in Colorado I put all new Square D panels with Arc-fault/GFIC breakers, now she is having issues with them tripping. I don't know if they are over sensitive or something is wrong in the wiring. In her utility room where the panel is located there is the washer and dryer. She did about 3 or 4 loads of wash and then the breaker tripped. Now on the other side of the wall that washer is located are plumbing for the shower in another room. Do you think since the wiring and receptacle for washer is located in the same cavity as the plumbing that this could be causing the tripping?

Start by finding out if they are tripping on AFCI or GFCI function, or even on standard thermal-mag function. All newer (QO and Homeline) have test feature built in that tells you what last trip condition was. Turn breaker off, hold test button when turning on, how long it takes to trip tells you what the conditon was.

instant trip (within one second) means it was a ground fault
if it trips in two seconds - it was an arc fault
if it trips in five seconds - the test only lasts five seconds - it means there was no AFCI or GFCI fault and any trip would have been from thermal magnetic function.

link to those instructions
 
Being in the same cavity should not cause a problem. Leaks that bad should be pretty obvious.

The QO should be showing a trip code.

Turn CB Off.
Press and hold the purple TEST button.
Move Handle to ON

Trip in:
1 sec = Ground Fault
2 sec = Arc Fault
5 sec = Thermal OL or short circuit.

This is on page three of the Instruction Bulletin enclosed in the packaging of the CB

eta: I'm too slow
 
Arc Fault Breaker/Shared neutral circuits

Arc Fault Breaker/Shared neutral circuits

Having installed a Square D Homeline panel with the neutral bar suitable for their new breakers i've discovered I can't share the neutral wire in the kitchen circuit, where i ran a three wire plus ground to the kitchen and split to two circuits there. Do I have to run two new two wire cables or is there a fix?
 
Having installed a Square D Homeline panel with the neutral bar suitable for their new breakers i've discovered I can't share the neutral wire in the kitchen circuit, where i ran a three wire plus ground to the kitchen and split to two circuits there. Do I have to run two new two wire cables or is there a fix?


If they make a dp gfci/afci you will be okay. YOu need a dp breaker to make that work with a multiwire branch circuit. Advice-- don't run multiwire branch circuit's
 
If they make a dp gfci/afci you will be okay. YOu need a dp breaker to make that work with a multiwire branch circuit. Advice-- don't run multiwire branch circuit's

With existing homeruns "Replacement Code" allows A/GFCI Outlets that work fine with MWBC's.

New MWBC's work fine with 1-pole GE AFCI's, and home-runs don't require GFCI.

Only if all Outlet & GE AFCI's are avoided, must 2-pole AFCI's be used for MWBC's.
 
I've had to troubleshoot numerous nuisance tripping issues with Square D AFCI's (Homeline) when I worked for a contractor that did all residential new construction. They are very sensitive for some reason and especially susceptible to unknown tripping from the AFCI portion, all caused by large and small appliances. I refuse to use Square D products now because of it.
 
With existing homeruns "Replacement Code" allows A/GFCI Outlets that work fine with MWBC's.

New MWBC's work fine with 1-pole GE AFCI's, and home-runs don't require GFCI.

Only if all Outlet & GE AFCI's are avoided, must 2-pole AFCI's be used for MWBC's.

Not sure what you are saying here. The post that I quoted says he ran the hr's with a multiwire branch circmultiwire branch circuit

I understand that ge is able to use 2 sp afci's with a multiwire branch circuit and a breaker tie as I use ge all the time.

It seems to me that the member I quoted was given the correct info since he used a 3 wire circuit and sq. d. :?
 
In my daughters remodel job on her home in Colorado I put all new Square D panels with Arc-fault/GFIC breakers, ..

Not sure what you are saying here. The post that I quoted says he ran the hr's with a multiwire branch circuit..
Op never touched home runs, but let SQ-D Panel Flipper put new GFCI breakers in there.:jawdrop:

No need for GFCI breakers.:slaphead:
 
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I was not responding to the op, I was responding to Colin Mac the poster I quoted

How many licensed electricians is that, who don't know what their doing?
Is it just SQ-D Panel Flippers that don't get Multi-Wire circuits?:dunce:

Or, is it exclusive Panel Flipping in general that never see wiring inside buildings?
 
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