Are Push-In type connectors used?

[Little Bill]

This is not directed to a specific person or post.

My point is: the connectors, in Goldstar's list, are all of the same 'design' but different manufacturers, however the connectors I listed are all the same manufacturer but are different 'designs'.
I have no problem following the discussion using generic/slang names, like 'push-in' connectors or NM, I can be tolerant of the co-opting of a brand name, like 'Wall-Nut' or Romex, but using a just a manufacturer's name, like Wago or Southwire, can easily lead to confusion.

Not trying to be argumentative, but, Southwire I can see, Wago not so much.
I bet you could say the name "Wago" to a hundred people and 98 of them would know what you were talking about.

 

[jim dungar]

Not trying to be argumentative, but, Southwire I can see, Wago not so much.
I bet you could say the name "Wago" to a hundred people and 98 of them would know what you were talking about.

Maybe in your 'part of the country'. The WAGO brand is not handled by any of the local full line electrical supply houses in a 100mi radius from my zip code.

To me a 'Wago connector' is the clamp design that requires a tool to insert and remove the conductor. This design is very secure, as it actually deforms the conductor. This connector type is handled by 13 electronic/control supply houses in this same area.

What specifically is an Arlington box?
What would the counter person you bring back if you asked for a Carlon box?

 

[jumper]

Ah, man you guys are making me think that I should ask one of the Internet copyright cops, my wife is one-not kidding, what is allowed.

 

[jim dungar]

Ah, man you guys are making me think that I should ask one of the Internet copyright cops, my wife is one-not kidding, what is allowed.

Not trying to actually protect anyone's property, but rather I am trying to head off mis-direction and confusion because posters often forget that not everyone on this forum uses the same slang for the same things.

 

[jumper]

Not trying to actually protect anyone's property, but rather I am trying to head off mis-direction and confusion because posters often forget that not everyone on this forum uses the same slang for the same things.

Agreed, the slang terms often throw me off.

 

[Little Bill]

Maybe in your 'part of the country'. The WAGO brand is not handled by any of the local full line electrical supply houses in a 100mi radius from my zip code.

To me a 'Wago connector' is the clamp design that requires a tool to insert and remove the conductor. This design is very secure, as it actually deforms the conductor. This connector type is handled by 13 electronic/control supply houses in this same area.

What specifically is an Arlington box?
What would the counter person you bring back if you asked for a Carlon box?

As I stated earlier, I'm not trying to be argumentative!:happyno:

The counter folk here would ask me how many ports I needed if I asked for Wagos.

But to most folks here, they would use the name "Wago" the same way that:

Visegrips
Romex
Channellock
Fridgidaire
Kleenex
Etc.

are used.

I hear it so much that I think of it as common.
But I do understand and also get confused on many terms/slangs that I don't hear in my area.

Nuff said (by me).

 

[goldstar]

Halo has them in there recessed cans. All you need to do is strip the field wiring and push it in the connector. The fixture wire is already inserted.

As luck would have it, I had occasion to wire some Halo recessed fixtures yesterday. After opening the wire compartment of one of the fixtures and pulling the wires out the "push-in" connector for the neutral wire fell off before I installed my wiring. This was a tinned, # 18 stranded wire installed by the manufacturer. Pushing the wire back in wasn't as easy as you would think. I know I said earlier that I felt comfortable using these connectors in products like these but in the future I will surely check the manufacturer's wiring before I install my own.

 

[Little Bill]

As luck would have it, I had occasion to wire some Halo recessed fixtures yesterday. After opening the wire compartment of one of the fixtures and pulling the wires out the "push-in" connector for the neutral wire fell off before I installed my wiring. This was a tinned, # 18 stranded wire installed by the manufacturer. Pushing the wire back in wasn't as easy as you would think. I know I said earlier that I felt comfortable using these connectors in products like these but in the future I will surely check the manufacturer's wiring before I install my own.

Stranded wire can be tricky to insert. I have doubled the length and folded it over to have more/stronger wire to insert.

I have also found your needle nose pliers are your friend when using push-in connectors.

 

[vw55]

I'm curious about the push-in technology. I've always thought that when attaching wiring to devices bolt-on or screw-captive installations were better as far as maintaining good connection and that the wire itself would have to fail for that type of connection to fail.

However, the WAGO product is interesting. From a labor standpoint, I understand the advantages, but from a safety standpoint thermal effects on the copper captive terminals could be an issue. Has anyone had one fail or cause fire due to overheating? What sort of tension is applied to the conductor when pushed into the captive terminals? Does the process damage the conductors in anyway? The manufacturer's cut sheet indicates it's really easy to disconnect the wiring from the captive terminal by simply twisting and pulling. Can't this happen while simply installing a device to a back box?

Does anyone have any technical information regarding this device, i.e., design, technology comparisons, failure testing?

 

[kwired]

I'm curious about the push-in technology. I've always thought that when attaching wiring to devices bolt-on or screw-captive installations were better as far as maintaining good connection and that the wire itself would have to fail for that type of connection to fail.

However, the WAGO product is interesting. From a labor standpoint, I understand the advantages, but from a safety standpoint thermal effects on the copper captive terminals could be an issue. Has anyone had one fail or cause fire due to overheating? What sort of tension is applied to the conductor when pushed into the captive terminals? Does the process damage the conductors in anyway? The manufacturer's cut sheet indicates it's really easy to disconnect the wiring from the captive terminal by simply twisting and pulling. Can't this happen while simply installing a device to a back box?

Does anyone have any technical information regarding this device, i.e., design, technology comparisons, failure testing?

If you think about it bolts are in a fixed position should something happen to cause them to loosen they remain loose, where the push in connection is held by spring pressure and any movement still has pressure against it after the movement is done. I think biggest issue with back stab switches and receptacles is the spring applying the pressure is not that great but these Wago's and other similar products are improved over the average back stab device.