Are weather resistant GFIs necessary?

[KVA]

Do you have to use weather resistant GFIs outside if they have a cover? or can i use regular GFIs?

 

[480sparky]

The box & cover are not addressed in the WR requirement. If it's outside, it's to be WR.

 

[KVA]

The box & cover are not addressed in the WR requirement. If it's outside, it's to be WR.

Ok. Just curious what makes them weather resistant? Is the electronics sealed better and the metal connections a different material or something?

 

[480sparky]

As I understand it, all the electronics are encased in a potting material. So they're basically hermetically sealed.

 

[Richardtheelectrician]

Speaking of GFCI receptacles, why are they still such huge monstrosities? Their size has not changed in twenty years, it seems, while everything else electronic has gotten tinier and tinier. I'm looking forward to the day when I can retire my GFCI Jammer.

 

[jaylectricity]

Speaking of GFCI receptacles, why are they still such huge monstrosities? Their size has not changed in twenty years, it seems, while everything else electronic has gotten tinier and tinier. I'm looking forward to the day when I can retire my GFCI Jammer.

Well, you're kind of wrong about them not changing in twenty years. They offer a slim version now. Still pretty big, but not too much deeper than a regular duplex receptacle.

Too lazy to find the link right now, but I believe it was Cooper or Pass and Seymour at the Blue Box where I saw them.

 

[jaylectricity]

As far as the WR goes...I feel like that should not be an NEC requirement. It's like saying your EMT fittings should be made of a better quality metal.

Either you buy the WR stuff and it lasts longer, or you buy the standard stuff and it goes bad in 5, 10, 15 years, or however long those things seem to last.

 

[kwired]

The WR rating is not just for GFCI receptacles, it is for: "All 15- and 20-ampere, 125- and 250-volt nonlocking receptacles shall be a listed weather-resistant type".

WR rated receptacles are corrosion resistant - most (maybe all) have stainless steel contacts from what I have been told.

 

[480sparky]

The electronics may have gotten smaller, but you can only make the contact surfaces so small.

 

[cmreschke]

Wr devices have stainless steel yokes screws and contacts. Brass still used for the hot wire.

 

[tom baker]

Speaking of GFCI receptacles, why are they still such huge monstrosities? Their size has not changed in twenty years, it seems, while everything else electronic has gotten tinier and tinier. I'm looking forward to the day when I can retire my GFCI Jammer.

For some time GFCIs have been side wired.
"Back in the day" the original GFCIs I installed in late 70's cost $35 each and had had wire pigtails, and we used 16 cu in boxes.

 

[Dennis Alwon]

I have been told that the WR receptacles are more sunlight resistant then the standard receptacles. Now that being said- I have a screen porch that I installed 25 years ago and they have regular receptacles and switches with, YES, standard white plates- not WP plates.

I wish they would change the rule for porches. interesting that some of the electronic dimmers state for indoor use.

 

[GeorgeB]

The electronics may have gotten smaller, but you can only make the contact surfaces so small.

I suspect it is the differential transformer that is the size limit ... probably a toroid with multiple turns of 2 20A capable conductors.

 

[Steviechia2]

I have been told that the WR receptacles are more sunlight resistant then the standard receptacles. Now that being said- I have a screen porch that I installed 25 years ago and they have regular receptacles and switches with, YES, standard white plates- not WP plates.

I wish they would change the rule for porches. interesting that some of the electronic dimmers state for indoor use.

I agree 100%. Rarely have I seen outside plugs go bad. I think this might have been a manufacturers push to change this code!

 

[kwired]

I agree 100%. Rarely have I seen outside plugs go bad. I think this might have been a manufacturers push to change this code!

I will say I have rarely seen specification grade or better go bad. The cheap grade receptacles --- go bad indoors and outdoors.

Usually when they go bad it is not the fault of the receptacle it is a cord cap that should have been replaced that starts the problem. And it will probably continue to be that way with WR receptacles also.

 

[K8MHZ]

I agree 100%. Rarely have I seen outside plugs go bad. I think this might have been a manufacturers push to change this code!

Agreed. I have exposed receptacles on the outside of my garage that are 60 years old. I took them out of service three years ago when I started upgrading the wiring in the garage. The receptacles were still working, just old, ugly two wire jobs with no covers.

But those weren't choked full of grain sized electronics. I have replaced several GFCI receptacles that failed due to outdoor conditions. They don't work well when immersed in water. Standard receptacles will.

 

[renosteinke]

In today's installment of "Secrets of the UL Testing Lab," they discuss how ....

There are multiple 'environmental' tests performed by UL. Some are referenced in specific product standards, and some are decided by the intended use of the product.

There are three - or were at least three- basic types of test, and any of them could be performed for a long time, or a shorter time. The three conditions were: very humid, humid & salty, and humid & corrosive (H2S). I don't know, but it's possible that the "WR" requirement added a fourth tier to the possible testing.

Prior to the "WR" classification, manufacturers typically made devices for normal use, for marine use, and for 'corrosion resistant' use. Oddly enough, some products would excel in the marine environment yet fail the corrosive one - and others would have the opposite experience.

It's up to the manufacturers how they pass the tests. It may be a complete redesign, using different materials - or it may be something as mundane as a coating of varnish.

If UL follows past practice, they would 'test' the GFCI's by exposing them, UN-energised, to the selected environments. They would allow the GFCI to fail, as long as it failed in the 'off' position, and otherwise posed no hazard.