Back feed through neutral

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Never seen damage, cut hot wires carrying load all the time.
I agree. The maximum current flow would be what ever the load was on the neutral. It will produce a spark but not damage the cutters.
I've seen where holes blown into cutters more than once by guys on remodels, most times by cutting thru making contact and closing a circuit L-N,G. Even seen one where copper was welded to the cutter, was on old FP panel. Response was always "I thought it was off." Cut just one conductor at a time your correct.
 
I've seen where holes blown into cutters more than once by guys on remodels, most times by cutting thru making contact and closing a circuit L-N,G. Even seen one where copper was welded to the cutter, was on old FP panel. Response was always "I thought it was off." Cut just one conductor at a time your correct.
Yeah of course, cutting a L- N or G is a whole nother story
 
When I was a first year apprentice all we did was industrial, so for class one night we went to wire a house.

Instructor had me hooking up the dishwasher. Panel was already live. He said “ that’s live, so turn it off first and wire that up”.

I said “yes boss” got down on my knees with my brand new Klein’s and trimmed the Romex down to size. :eek:

Big flash, new wire stripper instantly installed in my linemans. 🤣
 
When I was a first year apprentice all we did was industrial, so for class one night we went to wire a house.

Instructor had me hooking up the dishwasher. Panel was already live. He said “ that’s live, so turn it off first and wire that up”.

I said “yes boss” got down on my knees with my brand new Klein’s and trimmed the Romex down to size. :eek:

Big flash, new wire stripper instantly installed in my linemans. 🤣
Hate that. I'm not gunna say "that hasn't happened to me in quite a while" because if I do it will happen next week 😠
 
A dummy stick can act all kinds of erratic. Especially on a lighting circuit. Switches on or off can make act different, dimmers, etc....

That's why I like to have 3 or 4 of them, different brands.

Show me one that tells you there's current running through a neutral.
 
Once again.... show me a DUMMY STICK that lights up on a properly connected neutral... which is what the OP is referencing.

The OP asked how to check for current on the neutral. In post 2, I suggested a clamp on ammeter.

In post 3 he acknowledged my solution and hasn’t posted since.

The next 27 posts are off on a tangent. We rarely do that here!
 
The OP asked how to check for current on the neutral. In post 2, I suggested a clamp on ammeter.

In post 3 he acknowledged my solution and hasn’t posted since.

The next 27 posts are off on a tangent. We rarely do that here!

And I asked for an idiot stick that will do that.
 
The OP asked how to check for current on the neutral. In post 2, I suggested a clamp on ammeter.
In post 3 he acknowledged my solution and hasn’t posted since.
The next 27 posts are off on a tangent. We rarely do that here!
And I asked for an idiot stick that will do that.
I've been called an idiot but never a stick so I don't know if I qualify to answer but here it goes, the closest I've seen a neutral give a reading on a properly connected neutral and circuit off was due to proximity of live circuit conductors to the tested circuit. I've learned on my ticker the difference in tone between a true hot and an induction tone. But it's fun to mess with the apprentices making it go off by induction when they dont have a clue.
 
Once again.... show me a DUMMY STICK that lights up on a properly connected neutral... which is what the OP is referencing.
I think you're moving the goalposts a bit.
The OP seems to be talking about a bootleg neutral, which is anything BUT properly connected.

And I said it depends if the other end is landed.
 

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