Backer board for service panels

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It's not in the NEC. I would guess that the painting had to do with protection for the wood. I've seen them painted and unpainted. We always paint them black.
 
Nutmegger said:
Are the requirements for the panel backer board covered anywhere in NEC, or its material/thickness, etc.?
I am pretty sure that paining it black is NOT covered, but where did that "tradition" come from?
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"Backer board" is not referenced in the code directly, but "properly supporting" of a panel or switchboard is required. As to paint, no paint, color of paint, it is mostly preference of contractor and what they have available and what might meet local requirements such as mentioned by Hal.
 
hbiss said:
Some jurisdictions want fire resistant plywood painted with fire resistant paint. And don't paint over the FR label. :rolleyes:

-Hal
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I remember hearing that "way back when" but I think it may have been local EI preferences.

That said, if I buy a black painted back-board from my supply house, I can guarantee that they did not use fire rated paint or fire rated plywood. If I buy the plywood myself it's not fire raed and I spray paint it with whatever cheap black paint HD has on the shelves. Should I be painting it with "high heat" paint like what I would use on my BBQ grill?

IMHO, I think the following :
  • a gray or sand colored panel-board looks good against a black back-board. It gives the impression that you cared about the installation.
  • If a load-center is screwed to cement or block the chances of moisture entering and/or corroding the panel is greater
Of course, these are just my opinions and no NEC requirements to back me up. :cool:
 
The only Backer Board I know of is a piece of plywood inside a CT cabinet (in lieu of the metal back plate).

For mounting a panel, only a space is required.

Usually a piece of plywood or OSB, but some around here use two 2x4s

I once used only tapcons, sleeved with 1/2" chase nipples to provide space
 
Only used a backer board once.
And that was because I had to replace what was there because water had ran down the wall and ruined the can.
 
Fred B said:
"Backer board" is not referenced in the code directly, but "properly supporting" of a panel or switchboard is required.
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That's what drive pins are for.
Although I haven't used one of them in years. They were a real pain to get out once you drove them up tight.
 
qcroanoke said:
That's what drive pins are for.
Although I haven't used one of them in years. They were a real pain to get out once you drove them up tight.
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We have a lot of stone foundations and you would never get a flat surface to mount onto so install a piece of AdvanTech to mount the panel onto. AdvanTech is 3/4" water resistant OSB usually used for subflooring but holds up for mounting a panel on really well in a basement.
 
Why even use a backer board? I just mount directly to strut. 30 bucks or so a stick, nothing to rot. No fire hazard
 
MattG0311 said:
Why even use a backer board? I just mount directly to strut. 30 bucks or so a stick, nothing to rot. No fire hazard
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For the most part. If there's no concerns about fire ratings.
I use it (backer board) on residential jobs because the materials are typically readily available on site...2x4's, scrap plywood or flat stock.
In my opinion it's easier to mount the panel and accessories on as well.
To each his own.
 
qcroanoke said:
That's what drive pins are for.
Although I haven't used one of them in years. They were a real pain to get out once you drove them up tight.
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The ones the Orange box sells have a Phillips head pin, so they can be backed out. The ones that don’t, I just use a beating screwdriver or small chisel to break the lead ring.
 
Nutmegger said:
Are the requirements for the panel backer board covered anywhere in NEC, or its material/thickness, etc.?
I am pretty sure that paining it black is NOT covered, but where did that "tradition" come from?
Click to expand...
It's not required. Code requires enclosures and boxes to be spaced 1/4 inch off of concrete walls. Most enclosures have bump outs to accomplish this. The backer board is usually installed to facilitate Romex Staples. I'd recommend going 3/4 as 1/2 inch is not thick enough to allow the staple to be completely driven in. Also, always use treated plywood on a concrete wall.

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Fred B said:
We have a lot of stone foundations and you would never get a flat surface to mount onto so install a piece of AdvanTech to mount the panel onto. AdvanTech is 3/4" water resistant OSB usually used for subflooring but holds up for mounting a panel on really well in a basement.
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I find OSB very difficult to drive Romex Staples into. I prefer treated plywood.

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For a long time we used the back side of black painted T1-11 siding with three 2" wide strips behind it. At 5/8" if was robust enough to hammer in staples and it is also rated for wet locations so it won't rot.
 
Anyone ever have an inspector take exemption to exposed NM at the panel being “subject to damage?”
I’m putting a panel in a house right now and I am sleeving the romex in four 1 1/2” EMT risers. Risers are 18” long with a bushing on top. I’m doing a 60% fill which will allow I believe 6 12/2s per riser. I have a sub panel in another section of the house that does the majority of the branch circuits.
I like the way it looks, very clean. I’ve done backer boards before but wanted to give EMT a shot as the homeowner wasn’t concerned about the additional cost...I’ll get a picture up tomorrow when I’m out working on it.
 
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