Ballast disconects

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Cavie

Cavie

Senior Member
Location
SW Florida
Saw my first flourescent fixture today that meets the Jan 1 2008 requirment for ballast disconect. 8' slimline. Power doesn't go threw the pins anymore. Power directly to the ballast. Cute little inline automotive type plug connector with both hot and neutral.
 
exposed wire

exposed wire

Cavie said:
Saw my first flourescent fixture today that meets the Jan 1 2008 requirment for ballast disconect. 8' slimline. Power doesn't go threw the pins anymore. Power directly to the ballast. Cute little inline automotive type plug connector with both hot and neutral.
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I installed several layins about a month ago that had these connectors. The factory wire inserts on a few fixtures had exposed bare wire!
 
Yes on the Quick Disconnects, but why was the supplied Ground screw at the end of the fixture /chasis, I thought the Code was for 6" from ballast !
 
cadpoint said:
Yes on the Quick Disconnects, but why was the supplied Ground screw at the end of the fixture /chasis, I thought the Code was for 6" from ballast !
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Don't know of that code but these screws were within 6" of the ballast. Makes sence, If you entered at one end, whay would the screw be at the other?
 
I read real quick I guess I made a bad statement, I moved all the screw to a closer tapped hole, Oh well ... seems I got hung up on 6 ...
 
I saw some of the new disconect connectors. To me they seem a lot like the old Molex connectors that they used in certain brands of fluorescent lights for the same purpose 3 decades ago. Those molex connectors get a little flakey with age, I have seen plenty fail in a bad way as a tall building I used to service had that fixture throughout. At 277 volts I will be a little nervous of those new ones for sure. Hope they are better this time around.
 
277

277

macmikeman said:
I saw some of the new disconect connectors. To me they seem a lot like the old Molex connectors that they used in certain brands of fluorescent lights for the same purpose 3 decades ago. Those molex connectors get a little flakey with age, I have seen plenty fail in a bad way as a tall building I used to service had that fixture throughout. At 277 volts I will be a little nervous of those new ones for sure. Hope they are better this time around.
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The ones I was working were 277, and the couple spots that had exposed wire at disconnects could have been fun! Also they did not give you much slack to work with. So much for "quality assurance"!
 
Call me stupid or old fashioned or thick headed. But, if I had to reballast a fixture I'd cut the wire ahead of these connectors and then unplug it. I wouldn't want it breaking in my hand, especially at 277 volts. IMO the stories will start rolling in after some accidents happen. I'm retired now so this is just my own 2cent rant. You guys be safe and do what you have to, to stay that way.
 
Cavie said:
Saw my first flourescent fixture today that meets the Jan 1 2008 requirment for ballast disconect. 8' slimline. Power doesn't go threw the pins anymore. Power directly to the ballast. Cute little inline automotive type plug connector with both hot and neutral.
Click to expand...

I don't understand why there needed to be any change in the slimline fixtures to comply with the new rule. I thought they always used interrupting lampholders and when you removed the lamps you have disconnected the ballast. The rule does not require that the fixture have a means of disconnect, it only requires a disconnect for the ballast.
 
don_resqcapt19 said:
I don't understand why there needed to be any change in the slimline fixtures to comply with the new rule. I thought they always used interrupting lampholders and when you removed the lamps you have disconnected the ballast. The rule does not require that the fixture have a means of disconnect, it only requires a disconnect for the ballast.
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I'm too lazy to look it up, but I think the disconnect needs to break the neutral side also.

John
 
possibility

possibility

yanici said:
Call me stupid or old fashioned or thick headed. But, if I had to reballast a fixture I'd cut the wire ahead of these connectors and then unplug it. I wouldn't want it breaking in my hand, especially at 277 volts. IMO the stories will start rolling in after some accidents happen. I'm retired now so this is just my own 2cent rant. You guys be safe and do what you have to, to stay that way.
Click to expand...
There is a greater possibility with these connectors in place now for someone getting hurt!
 
yanici said:
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I'm too lazy to look it up, but I think the disconnect needs to break the neutral side also.
John
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The first diagram on this sheet is the wiring that I am thinking about. When the lamps are removed both the hot and neutral to ballast are disconnected.
 
don_resqcapt19 said:
The first diagram on this sheet is the wiring that I am thinking about. When the lamps are removed both the hot and neutral to ballast are disconnected.
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Yep the neutral gets broken with the lamp removal. I've just run into a lot of miswired ones where the guy ahead didn't wire the neutral through the end. Sorry for my miscommunication.
 
410.73G covers the disconnect rule in the 2005. The state of Wash adopted this starting jan 1 of this year. nice little ideal orange push in style connectors work perfectly for this to disconnect the ballast during replacement. The requirement means that if you replace a ballast you must also install a disconnect at that time.
 
mdshunk said:
What language, specifically, makes you think this applies to ballast changeouts?
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I think the language is there.

If I changed a motor that did not have a disconnect I would feel obligated to include one with the change out.
 
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