Beware of Bell PVC Couplings

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peter

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San Diego
Moroseful tale of the perils of trying to run a flat steel fish tape through PVC assembled with those "convenient" built in, bell couplings.
Several things happened. First S. ran 3/4" PVC throughout the tilt-up staircase managing to use less than seven 90? commercial elbows.
Then D. modified the tip of a flat steel fish tape to form a hook to hopefully snag a loop on the jet line.
And then P. [notice how I am using initials to disquise the identities of the imbecilic culprits [& ignore the fact that my name also starts with a "P"]] decided to push same said fish tape into another pipe. It went in pretty far but not far enough. Pulled almost all the way out but then got stuck. Real bad. Like a rat on one of those sticky trays.
So today, I spent three hours trying to get it out. I attached two pairs of ViceGrips and pounded on them for an hour with a five pound hammer to no avail. I twisted the tape 50 times each way to no avail. Pound inward also didn't work.
Finally, D. suggested chucking the end of the tape in a drill and spinning it. Ultimately this worked, sort of. The piece pulled out and the last two inches were twisted like a drill bit. There may be remnants still in there but I don't care.
My theory of what happened is that the hook of the tape imbedded itself in the little cliff formed when the square cut end of the pipe is glued into the bell shaped coupling. If you sliced the assembly in two and followed the interior lining, the straight section of pipe goes along until it drops a sharp 90? about 3/15", then it returns to the diameter with a very shallow sine curve back to the normal diameter of the next piece of PVC conduit.
This is also why it is often impossible to run any fish tape from one direction of the run, but possible from the other end.
My impeccable advice is to eschew all use of bell couplings. They belong in sewer pipes -- pun deliberately intended. It might help to ream the sharp 90? corners on the straight ends of the tubing. Also I noted that adding lots of glue to the female half of the coupling gets shoved into the expansion and helps fill in the gap.
~Peter
 
I've never had any issues with bell and spigot conduit, but then again, I chamfer the leading edge of the spigot end like you're supposed to. The Ridgid makes these great little gizmo's that do a heck of a nice job at that:

Deburring_Tools_3C.jpg
 
That's why I plan how I'm going to push a fish tape through before I install the PVC. But I only use a tape on short runs. Anything of length (over 100') gets a blower and jetline.
 
infinity said:
Sounds like a job for some jet line, a plastic bag, and a shop vac.


Exactly, I never waste my time with a snake, I do own a pvc snake that does work wonders, but using the vacuum is a godsend. I don't remember that last time I used a steel snake...
 
mdshunk said:
I've never had any issues with bell and spigot conduit, but then again, I chamfer the leading edge of the spigot end like you're supposed to. The Ridgid makes these great little gizmo's that do a heck of a nice job at that:

Deburring_Tools_3C.jpg
I have never heard of chamfering the edges of pvc before (still trying to learn everything I can). Definitely will use that method in the future.
 
I have never heard of chamfering the edges of pvc before (still trying to learn everything I can). Definitely will use that method in the future.

i first delved into the mystery of chamfering the edge of pvc about a year ago. i haven't noticed a difference, but i always use a tape w/ that plastic wormy leader on the end of it, so getting stuck rarely happens except when that end bends around itself and wedges against the conduit walls. then i put a tape down the other end and, i still haven't figured out how this works but it does, i'm able to hook the ends together and use one tape to pull another. it really is just a big waste of time. what were you guys saying about a plastic bag, vacuum, ,etc. . ?? sounds like a homocide kit to me. but if it works. . .
 
Ever since I quit using glue on 90's and 45's I have no problems fishing pvc. I got those bending springs you can bend 1/2 and 3/4 cold, it's great. I strongly suggest them if you run a lot of small pvc. Many days we don't have the big shop vac on the truck, don't need it now.
 
peter said:
First S. ran 3/4" PVC throughout the tilt-up staircase managing to use less than seven 90? commercial elbows.

I'm having trouble envisioning a "tilt up staircase." When I think of tilt-up, I think of slabs that are made on site or brought in and then assembled, correct? So I'm guessing this pvc is buried in the concrete?
 
Peter D,
"I'm having trouble envisioning a "tilt up staircase." When I think of tilt-up, I think of slabs that are made on site or brought in and then assembled, correct? So I'm guessing this pvc is buried in the concrete?'
I think you've got it right. I wasn't there. Cast on site. Imagine a concrete box about 10' by 20' and ~30+ high. Then steel stair units are brought in and bolted and welded in place. But the piping for the exit lights is required to be cast into the concrete and how do you connect at the edges?
This is at the northeast corner of the three story garage. There is a door on the first floor in the east wall and doors on the west walls at the 2nd & 3rd floor levels. A sprinkled guy core drilled a 2" hole through the south wall and went right through one of the conduits connecting the exit light box over the 3rd floor door with the box over the first floor door. We did manage to suck a jet line down from this break up to the box over the 3rd floor door. I'm confused too.
Speaking of vacuums, these only give you 15 lbs/sq. inch. [Atmospheric pressure.] Perhaps on of those air compressors used to power jack hammers may be needed to push the mouse through this maze.
~Peter
 
When the maze gets real tough I use air tank to push the mouse through..but I use fish tape on anything under100ft.. I also ream the pvc as well but I do not have them fancy tools Marc has...He really does have all the cool toys doesn't he...
 
monkey said:
Ever since I quit using glue on 90's and 45's I have no problems fishing pvc. I got those bending springs you can bend 1/2 and 3/4 cold, it's great. I strongly suggest them if you run a lot of small pvc. Many days we don't have the big shop vac on the truck, don't need it now.

I saw the video of that awhile back and really didn't believe it. I may re-look into that, anyone have the link for the place that sells it again?

Strike that, I must have missed page 2 and saw it when the post went through. Thanks.
 
chris500 said:
I saw the video of that awhile back and really didn't believe it. I may re-look into that, anyone have the link for the place that sells it again?

Strike that, I must have missed page 2 and saw it when the post went through. Thanks.

I played with them at a supplier, but I don't care for them. The bening radius is much less than factory bends.

Somewhere around here, I have samples of ball ends for fishtape that are supposed to make fishing easier. I'll look.
 
I don't know... I've been "cold bending" PVC with the regular EMT bender and hickey's for years. No real need for the pipe viper springs, in my opinion.

That's 1/2 and 3/4, mind you. One inch and bigger I still break out the hot box. The pipe viper says they do up to 2", but I'd like to see the
guy that can bend 2" over his knee. Not somebody I'd want to tussle with.
 
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cschmid said:
I also ream the pvc as well but I do not have them fancy tools Marc has...He really does have all the cool toys doesn't he...
:grin: Hey... it costs all of about 12 dollars. Does a slick job. I keep it on the truck right next to the PVC glue. Pretty handy gadget.
 
I use the Ridgid reamer below for PVC. It works allright. I call it the monkey barrel.
34965.jpg


Ridgid also makes one for copper that I think would work better in generakl because it has like 46 cutting edges rather than 3. But it is over $60.

~Matt
 
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