Blue Carlon Boxes

[jmellc]

I never cared for the blue Carlon cut in boxes sold at Big Blue and Big Orange. The entry slots crowd the wire in and the clamps often tear loose from the box as it is being installed. Have only used them in a pinch. But I tried 1 version the other day in a mobile home with shallow walls. I used the ones with a funky little side pocket. It has better entry slots too, closer to those on the Slater boxes at supply houses. I found these fit well in the shallow walls. Still had to work harder on the clamps but I will keep a few of these on the truck now. I haven't seen any version of this by Slater, nor have I seen a shallower standard box by Slater. Shallow metal boxes mean jiffy clips which often try to tear out of thin drywall. I have seen 1 other Carlon box that may be nice; a nail up box on a bracket. Has set screws, allowing it to slide forward or back. Would be good if exact thickness of wall is not yet known. Or could turn them out an inch to keep the drywaller from burying the box. I've had jobs where they buried several boxes and can lights.

 

[peter d]

T&B now owns Carlon. When you go the the T&B website, all of their boxes whether Union, Bowers or T&B are now called Carlon.

As to the issue at hand, I like Carlon and use them often. I do agree that the clamps are an issue though. Another good plastic box is CrouseHinds/Thepitt which is a grey plastic similar to Carlon and Slater. They are the same design but a bit sturdier. Although now the 1-g boxes are actually made by Cantex.

 

[growler]

I like Carlon and use them often. I do agree that the clamps are an issue though.

I like the blue color because it stands out enough that it should be easy enough even for a blind sheet-rocker to see. Those brown boxes hide to easily.

It wouldn't bother me if the made an industrail yellow box about the same as #12 Romex or an Orange the same as #10 Romex. Be easy to see.

 

[jxofaltrds]

A Roto Zip can easily damage those boxes. So when the 'bit' cuts through the edge of the box how do you repair it?

 

[220/221]

The blue box has been the standard here since the mid 80's. I like everything about them

I've never seen a box damaged by a rotozip. Wiring, yes, box, no.

The entry slots crowd the wire in and the clamps often tear loose from the box as it is being installed.

You are supposed to remove the entry ko's. The boxes with clamps would never just tear out.

 

[fondini]

A Roto Zip can easily damage those boxes. So when the 'bit' cuts through the edge of the box how do you repair it?

cut open the sheetrock and replace the boxes.

 

[LarryFine]

It wouldn't bother me if the made an industrail yellow box about the same as #12 Romex or an Orange the same as #10 Romex. Be easy to see.

Why stop there? Let's color code boxes to match the circuit rating. White boxes for 15a, yellow for 20a, etc. :roll:

 

[jxofaltrds]

Why stop there? Let's color code boxes to match the circuit rating. White boxes for 15a, yellow for 20a, etc. :roll:

I like that. What if you had a kitchen GFCI and the disposal switch in the same box?

 

[roger3829]

Allied fiberglass boxes are far better than any plastic box I've seen. The don't warp when installed and the screw holes don't melt if someone uses a screw gun to drive the screws.

 

[peter d]

Allied fiberglass boxes are far better than any plastic box I've seen. The don't warp when installed and the screw holes don't melt if someone uses a screw gun to drive the screws.

Interesting. I think Allied are by the far the worst boxes available. They break easily and the screws holes strip out like crazy. If you absolutely must use a hard shell non-metallic box, the brown phenolic Union boxes are much better than Allied.

And by the way, this is not an endorsment for the Union boxes. I think they are junk as well. They are just better than Allied in the "hard shell" category.

 

[roger3829]

Interesting. I think Allied are by the far the worst boxes available. They break easily and the screws holes strip out like crazy. If you absolutely must use a hard shell non-metallic box, the brown phenolic Union boxes are much better than Allied.

And by the way, this is not an endorsment for the Union boxes. I think they are junk as well. They are just better than Allied in the "hard shell" category.

I've never seen or used Union boxes. Yes a tap on the side of the box will shatter it. But even if the screw hole strips out it can be retapped unlike the plastic boxes.

 

[LarryFine]

I like that. What if you had a kitchen GFCI and the disposal switch in the same box?

Two-tones, baby! :grin:

Unless, of course, the disposer circuit is 20a, too.

 

[PetrosA]

I prefer plastic boxes over metal for residential work (even though I was raised on metal boxes) for a number of reasons - They weigh less in the truck, they install faster, they are easier to swap out, they have way more capacity and room to work in, they're easier to install in most cases. One case where metal still wins hands down is baseboard mounted recepts. The one thing I wish they would change (or at least make an option of) in plastic boxes is to use the same kind of NM clamp that goes into the metal boxes. That would be nice.

 

[Kdog76]

A Roto Zip can easily damage those boxes. So when the 'bit' cuts through the edge of the box how do you repair it?

Drywallers never do that, do they? :grin:

1) plastic box extender / liner (e.g. those white ones I forget who makes them?)
2) if it's that bad sawzall out the nails and put in an allied molded slider box
3) if its not that bad do nothing. If it's a noncombustible surface we are allowed 1/4" back on our boxes. (although yes damaged materials should not be used)

 

[guitarchris]

And by the way, this is not an endorsment for the Union boxes. I think they are junk as well. They are just better than Allied in the "hard shell" category.

You are crazy! I use T&B union boxes because they don't warp when nailed and sheetrockers can't warp them when slamming the rock on the wall. They break if you get crazy with them but you can break out and replace these boxes much easier than any plastic box. We have always looked at the plastic boxes as being spec house grade of materials. I guess it all comes down to different strokes for different folks.

 

[guitarchris]

PS I have not used the Allied boxes, just commenting on the non-love of the fiber boxes

 

[jes25]

cut open the sheetrock and replace the boxes.

Because a box was cut by a roto-zip? You can't be serious, have you done this?

The sheetrockers do cut through the sides once in a while, but I've never seen damage that would warrant the box to be replaced.

 

[mcclary's electrical]

Because a box was cut by a roto-zip? You can't be serious, have you done this?

The sheetrockers do cut through the sides once in a while, but I've never seen damage that would warrant the box to be replaced.

or anything a box extender won't fix

 

[jmellc]

Because a box was cut by a roto-zip? You can't be serious, have you done this?

The sheetrockers do cut through the sides once in a while, but I've never seen damage that would warrant the box to be replaced.

Yes, that's another whole issue. I use to work for a GC (supposedly high end) whose drywallers would regularly damage boxes with a rotozip. We packed wire as deep as possible but they would damage the screw clips too sometimes. We had to cut out a few, cut the rock and replace with another nail up box. His guys would tear up part of the boxes and cover up part of them. I like the old way better, where the drywaller would measure and cut holes first, then put it up. But of course, that took time. This GC was only interested in speed.

 

[walkerj]

I like the Allied fiberglass ones the best, then blue.