Blue Carlon Boxes

[~Shado~]

Yes, that's another whole issue. I use to work for a GC (supposedly high end) whose drywallers would regularly damage boxes with a rotozip. We packed wire as deep as possible but they would damage the screw clips too sometimes. We had to cut out a few, cut the rock and replace with another nail up box. His guys would tear up part of the boxes and cover up part of them. I like the old way better, where the drywaller would measure and cut holes first, then put it up. But of course, that took time. This GC was only interested in speed.

1st....the drywallers are supposed know that their rotozips are to be used on the OUTSIDE of boxes only...not in.

I strongley clarify this on all jobs. The GC usually babbles something about he will make sure it won't happen.....then I have to inform him that if the Zip is used inside of box....how can the rock slide over the lip and set back like it should....duh!!!

 

[480sparky]

1st....the drywallers are supposed know that their rotozips are to be used on the OUTSIDE of boxes only...not in............

Every drywaller I know starts their rotozips inside the box, then moves to the edge... then jumps to the outside of the box, then around.

 

[220/221]

Every drywaller I know starts their rotozips inside the box, then moves to the edge... then jumps to the outside of the box, then around.

That's how I do it

 

[jmellc]

Every drywaller I know starts their rotozips inside the box, then moves to the edge... then jumps to the outside of the box, then around.

Well, it's like anything else. Done properly, paying attention, a good craftsman can do it well. With someone yelling at him to hurry up, it goes downhill. Like I said this particular GC was supposed to be 1st class; he sure charged 1st class. But I don't exaggerate to say how much his guys damaged boxes, cut wire, buried boxes and can lights. Also, they would often cut way too wide on switch boxes, leaving 1/2" or more gap. Did not mud the boxes either. Code requires patching to 1/8". We had to use spacers and larger plates on most devices. A pain since our main supply house at the time only had standard plates. Had to go out of our way for midsize. Inspector never turned down, surprisingly. The GC would then complain how long it took to trim out. He was a true jerk, but the only paying customer we had at the time.

 

[macmikeman]

Putting the words good craftsman and drywaller in the same sentence is a thing of the past most of the times. I had drywall installers cut thru the screw holes on plastic boxes and ruin them many times while they are searching for some wire to shred. Don't tell anybody I said this but a substitution of the 6-32 screw in such cases with a course thread sheetrock screw usually fixes the problem. Did I just say that? What a hack I am.....

I lecture the hangers all the time, since mostly I see them using roto-zips without the depth guard attachment on the tool. Who cares about electricians and their stupid wires anyway, the important thing is to hang many sheets of rock in a short period of time. If the board installer notices that he just ruined your wiring inside a box, he has a secret cover up weapon he will use- just fill the box with mud- that hides the damage pretty well, until he makes it to the next county. God Bless America.

 

[480sparky]

Well, it's like anything else. Done properly, paying attention, a good craftsman can do it well. With someone yelling at him to hurry up, it goes downhill. Like I said this particular GC was supposed to be 1st class; he sure charged 1st class. But I don't exaggerate to say how much his guys damaged boxes, cut wire, buried boxes and can lights. Also, they would often cut way too wide on switch boxes, leaving 1/2" or more gap. Did not mud the boxes either. Code requires patching to 1/8". We had to use spacers and larger plates on most devices. A pain since our main supply house at the time only had standard plates. Had to go out of our way for midsize. Inspector never turned down, surprisingly. The GC would then complain how long it took to trim out. He was a true jerk, but the only paying customer we had at the time.

Try backcharging.

 

[jmellc]

Try backcharging.

We did charge him, T & M for all fixes. That was a fight too. I was glad when other work came to us and we didn't have to rely on him as much. He's one of those people that loves being a butthead.

 

[LarryFine]

Don't tell anybody I said this but a substitution of the 6-32 screw in such cases with a course thread sheetrock screw usually fixes the problem.

I prefer an 8-32.

 

[220/221]

I prefer pointy tipped, coarse thread, Phillips head, device mounting screws.

 

[LarryFine]

I prefer pointy tipped, coarse thread, Phillips head, device mounting screws.

Well, okay, as long as you don't use drywall screws.

 

[jmellc]

I prefer an 8-32.

I often found that the rotozip had cracked the screw enclosure and a larger screw would split it, std 6-32 wouldn't hold. They didn't wreck them halfway. Took pride in it.

 

[LarryFine]

Why can't I get to page 4 and see post 31?


Added: Now, I can.

 

[jes25]

I prefer pointy tipped, coarse thread, Phillips head, device mounting screws.

I don't see a code issue with using drywall screws. Anyone disagree?

 

[480sparky]

i don't see a code issue with using drywall screws. Anyone disagree?

314.23(b)(1).