Blue neutral

[quogueelectric]

Is this equipment UL aproved

Is this equipment UL aproved

Sorry I had to open that can of worms.

 

[Rampage_Rick]

The Atomic 3000 unit is an auto-ranging electronic power supply, you can find the cut sheet at http://www.martin.com/marketing/files/Atomic_col_deto_broch_low.pdf

From that same sheet:

MAX-15 Strobe lamp, Xenon 97010307: included in the 200-260 V supply version
MAX-7 Strobe lamp, Xenon 97010308: included in the 90-120 V supply version

Atomic, EU: 90424000
Atomic, US: 90424100

If all else fails, RTFM... Check out pages 6 and 7. (color code on pg 7)
http://www.lysudlejning.dk/images/Manual/UM_Atomic3000_EN_C.pdf

The auto-ranging power supply automatically adjusts to any 50 - 60 Hz AC power supply from 90 to 260 volts. No adjustment is necessary. Note that the XOP 15-OF lamp does not operate below 125 volts.

The Atomic 3000 is available in two models for different lamps: the MAX-7 and MAX-15 xenon strobe lamps. The MAX-7 model will in theory accept AC mains supplies from 90 to 250 volts, but for optimum lamp life we only approve use with mains supplies from 90 to 120 volts. The MAX-15 model will in theory accept AC mains supplies from 125 to 250 volts, but for optimum light output we only approve use with mains supplies from 200 to 250 volts.
An approved alternative for the MAX-7 lamp is the Philips XOP 7-OF (90-120 V supply) and an approved alternative for the MAX-15 is the Philips XOP 15-OF (200-250 V supply).

Sweet gel scroller option though. Looks like it keeps the gel string moving across the length of the chosen color panel to maximize lifespan.

 

[chris kennedy]

If all else fails, RTFM... Check out pages 6 and 7. (color code on pg 7)
http://www.lysudlejning.dk/images/Manual/UM_Atomic3000_EN_C.pdf

The auto-ranging power supply automatically adjusts to any 50 - 60 Hz AC power supply from 90 to 260 volts. No adjustment is necessary.

Well, I stand corrected. Thanks all.

dbuckley, you really are the smartest man in the world!:grin:

 

[Rampage_Rick]

Best part of that manual:

To guard against epileptic seizure
?Do not operate the fixture near stairways.
?Provide advance notice that strobe lighting is in use.
?Avoid extended periods of continuous flashing, particularly at frequencies of 10 to 20 flashes per second.

I did not know that. Strobe lights and stairs are a bad mix people!

One would wonder though if that is applicable to the public at large, not just epileptics? :grin:

 

[dbuckley]

So it's an Atomic we're dealing with.

An Atomic wants to be fed with the highest voltage available, to get maximum output. Thus in the USA 208V with the MAX-15 lamp is what most folks using Atomics choose to use, as they get power from a distro fed with 208Y/120.

Voltage is important for these sorts of strobes, as the strobe tube is wired directly across the mains, and thus more volts == more brightness. You don't buy an Atomic unless you are looking for a lot of brightness.

There is one other issue I'll amplify; It's mentioned in the manual - take enormous note of the number of Atomics you can have per circuit. Atomics can and do pop breakers, so a strobe per circuit is about the limit.

The current required by the Atomic 3000 varies according to lamp type, power mode, and usage. To avoid overload, allow one 16 or 20 amp branch circuit per fixture to operate the MAX-15 model at full power. Two fixtures may be placed on a 16 amp branch circuit if they are operated in low power mode or use the MAX-7 lamp.

Use 2.5 mm2 (13 AWG) or larger power feed cables and keep runs as short as possible.

Using two hots of a 208Y to feed an appliance that expects a neutral is an interesting diversion; I don't know but I guess that the US rental houses just put a 4 wire NEMA plug on and wire the brown and blue to the two hots. I'd recommend that you ring a local lighting or production house and ask what plugs their 208V Atomics have...

 

[chris kennedy]

So it's an Atomic we're dealing with.

An Atomic wants to be fed with the highest voltage available, to get maximum output. Thus in the USA 208V with the MAX-15 lamp is what most folks using Atomics choose to use, as they get power from a distro fed with 208Y/120.

Voltage is important for these sorts of strobes, as the strobe tube is wired directly across the mains, and thus more volts == more brightness. You don't buy an Atomic unless you are looking for a lot of brightness.

There is one other issue I'll amplify; It's mentioned in the manual - take enormous note of the number of Atomics you can have per circuit. Atomics can and do pop breakers, so a strobe per circuit is about the limit.



Using two hots of a 208Y to feed an appliance that expects a neutral is an interesting diversion; I don't know but I guess that the US rental houses just put a 4 wire NEMA plug on and wire the brown and blue to the two hots. I'd recommend that you ring a local lighting or production house and ask what plugs their 208V Atomics have...

The club owns these. These are only 2 units out of 28 Martin units. I'm supplying the cord bodies and recepticles, so thats not an issue.

The Atomics have a typical power consumption of 8A. They peak at 33A. They come with an inboard slow blow fuse at 20A.(all AC power voltages)
I'm giving each a 120V circuit. Thats how the lighting guy wants them hooked up. He just finished another club wired this way with no problems.

juogueelectric, ANSI/UL 1573, CSA C22.2 No.166.

 

[dbuckley]

All sounds fine then, you've got all the bases covered.

I'm just surprised a "lighting guy" would want his Atomics running on 120V... Still, he's the customer

 

[pbeasley]

If it was the only 208v fixture I had, i might be inclined to run it at 120 instead.